How do you bleed your brakes ? I get my assistant to push the pedal while i open and close the nipple. This works OK but can cause the brake warning light to switch on after doing this cos the piston in the master has moved. It switches off after few minutes driving.
What is the best way ? should i get one of those hand pumps or what ..![]()
Good read up here on doing it mate. Take your time if you are not sure on what you are doing though.
Warped Rotor Myth
I don't agree with the pumping of the brake pedal, pressurising the fluid can cause any air in the line to cavitate (the collapse of low pressure bubbles). Instead, have the bleed line immersed in brake fluid, open the bleeder and depress the brake pedal about half way, this will eliminate the brake warning switch problem, then close the bleeder and release the pedal. Repeat until the fluid is a clean steady stream with no bubbles. Start with the LHR, then do the RHR, LHF and finish with the RHF.
Also, only depressing the pedal half way will not allow the piston and seals in the master cylinder to move beyond their normal operating position. It is common for the inside of the bore to wear, this wear may damage the seals on the piston as they move over the ridge in the bore caused by the wear. If this happens the master cylinder will "bypass", that is the pedal will slowly go to the floor when your foot is on the brake.
I've always bled my brakes using a 'sucker' that is specifically made for bleeding brakes. All you do is hook it up to an air compressor, crack open the bleed nipple and clip the 'sucker' on, and away you go. Have an assistant pour clean brake fluid in at the master cylinder and then keep an eye on the colour of the fluid where you are bleeding. Once the fluid is clean ie the same colour as whats being poured into the master cylinder reservoir, the particular brake you are working on can be considered bled. As others have suggested, start with the line furthest away from the master cylinder, and then work your way around, finishing at the right front brake.
so no one reccomends the one man DIY bleeders then ? All the above methods require 2 people. I heard you can buy something like a spring loaded valve, which you attach to the nipple and just sit in the car and pump away.? anyone tried those ?
You could do it the way I suggested, you just have to keep an eye on the level in the master cylinder... the sucker doesn't work that quickly, so you would have time to fill the master cylinder, then bleed one brake, and then recheck the master cylinder without the level dropping right down to nothing.
Harvs,lol didn't see your post till after... i don't have a compresor so i guess the hand pump suckers are next best thing, maybe bit slower.
Only thing about that is they suck rather than push the fluid out. If you had leak in a line somewhere you would be sucking air into it rather than pushing it out. I will look into that tho, as i like it being a 1 man job ( the Mrs gets bored after the first wheel LOL) Thanks all.
No dramas mate. The sucker thing is about $80 from memory, and you can pick up a compressor pretty cheap these days... a little one has enough power for the sucker, plus you can use it for other things too, pumping up your tyres, and using an air gun to clean out your engine bay etc... plenty of uses for the old compressor.
Harvs, Where can I buy one of these $80 sucker things? I bled the VRs brakes last week but I think there could still be a little bit of air in the line. I ended up getting a much better peddle by gravity bleed the system - just opened up each line and let flow. I like the idea of the sucker.
1 way valve hose about $15 at kmart etc
put hose on nipple , crack nipple, pump pedal many times topping up fluid , tighten nipple and go to the next one
makes it an easy 1 person job
OK, well its up to $96 now, there is a shop here in Melbourne on Clarendon St called Just Tools, they sell them as part of their Air Tools range.
Air Boy Brake Bleeder. #124143100
I'd imagine that other quality tool shops would also stock them, such as Total Tools etc
The spring loaded bleed screws are $33 a pair, don't know who sells them though.
The long way around is to use a broom handle and push the brake pedal down wedging the handle against the door frame, go around and close the bleeder, go back to the broom handle....etc etc