Is there a HOW TO on replaceing fuel pump ?

[greenacc]

My V6 is running a lil bit funny. Surgeing, making noise from fuel pump, sometimes won't rev past 3000rpm ... Does this sound like a dead fuel pump ?
I've seen a few loose threads on here about it but no pics. Is there any good cheap brand i should get ?
Dont know if this heat wave is the best time to be playing with fire... i mean fuel !!!

[hako]

Could be a blocked fuel filter and the pump working hard to pump thru it. Does it make noises when the tank is full/nearly full?

[greenacc]

um, it started diong this the day after a track day .... when the tank was half full. It is now about 1/4. I'm scared to fill it up cos if i have to do the pump i'll end up with 50 litres of fuel and nowhere to put it ...

[Scooter79]

It's not your fuel pump. Fuel pumps either work or they don't. There's no middle ground.

Even still replacing your pump is pretty straight foward.

1. Raise back of car.

2. Remove fuel pump relay in engine bay and start engine until it dies. This reduces fuel pressure.

3. Disconnect wiring from the sender unit at the front end of the fuel tank.

4. Disconnect two fuel hoses from sender unit

5. Optional: start unbolting the fuel tank straps and drop the tank. A second person helps. This way is easier to get the sender out of the tank which has the pump attached to it, plus you can give the tank a good scrub and clean out. There is a breather hose attached near the filler cap to the tank that needs to be released. I had to remove the metal guard behind the rear drivers side tyre to access it.

6. Unbolt the sender unit from the tank. I think about 6 small bolts and be careful not to break the cork gasket. once bolts removed , rotate the sender unit 90 degrees so the float arm fits in the notch in the tank.

7. The sender unit requires a little care when removing and will require some turning. It's an odd shape. A hose connected to the sender inside the tank will need to be unclipped with a tiny flat head screwdriver.

8. Remove sender, remove old pump from sender unit and attached new pump and strainer.

9. After carefully draining any petrol in a safe manner, give the tank a good scrub and hose out any debris or dirt. This is totally safe. Once clean have a 2L bottle of metho on hand and rinse with metho. This will get rid of any water left or condensation and let the tank dry out for a few hours. (I've done this with both VS's I've owned and is not a problem.)

10. Reassembly is a reverse of the above procedure. Getting the tank back in will be easier with two people but I've done it by myself. (I'm He-man)



Now some may argue you don't need to remove the tank which I'm sure may be true. But it's easier to work with the tank off the car and I found it reassuring to know that I've given the tank a good thorough clean out.

But as I said at the start, fuel pumps either work or they don't. If your car won't start and you think it may be the fuel pump, have someone bang the fuel tank with a rubber mallet while you try start it. Banging a faulty pump usually makes it kick over.

[ephect]

cracking open fuel tank to change fuel pump?! is a quick run down u can do it all with out removing the tank too

Im with hako, possible fuel filter, i would also see if you can find where the noise is coming from

EDIT: Scooter79 bet me too it, and in detail.

Scooter79 add this in there: once bolts removed , rotate the sender unit 90 degrees so the float arm fits in the notch in the tank.

[VrWagz1]

It's not your fuel pump. Fuel pumps either work or they don't. There's no middle ground.

I'll dissagree with you there on that point, my fuel pump was fugged, but the car ran fine. Just couldnt put the boot into it or rev over 4000rpm and it was intermittant too. Could be fine one day and fugged the next.

[Scooter79]

I'll dissagree with you there on that point, my fuel pump was fugged, but the car ran fine. Just couldnt put the boot into it or rev over 4000rpm and it was intermittant too. Could be fine one day and fugged the next.

Well you learn something new everyday. Even so, a fuel pump is cheap. Only about $70 if you shop around.

[greenacc]

Filled it to half today as it was getting noisier as the level dropped. Will see if still noisy with half.
As above, I'll take your advice and replace the fuel filter first thing ... cheapest place to start. My thought is that it is the pump, but hope i'm wrong. Could it possibly be the regulator ? If it was fugged and dropping the fuel pressure would the pump be noisy pumping fuel around the loop back to the tank ?

[ephect]

nar if the reg was stuffed you wouldnt be hearing weird noises from the tank, just hte hum of the pump.

but in saying that, the not reving past 3k rpm could also be a faulty reg, not holding pressure in the lines not letting it rev out.

start with the pump, coz its noisier than normal, then if problems still persist, change your reg

[greenacc]

So are ACA fuel pumps any good ? picked one up from Auto one on sale ... ?

[Scooter79]

Nothing wrong with them. That's what I used when I did mine.

[Lost_Pete]

Here is mine (wagon) from an older post (similiar to Scooter);

I highly recommend you do step #10;

Just put in the fourth fuel pump!

#1 Original - After 10 years then stopped.

#2 Cheap aftermarket ($40) - Ran for a week and then left us stranded on a major road in peak hour.

#3 Replacement (warranty) cheap aftermarket - Ran for 2 years then the car started losing power and running lean. The car ran so lean I actually heard it knocking under acceleration for the first time ever. Car took longer than normal to start in the morning. Fuel pump made odd noises and then finally stopped. NRMA guy said to buy a Holden fuel pump or at least a good brand.

#4 Known brand ($90 trade to $120 retail) aftermarket - Still going!

Prices range from cheap on eBay to $95 at Repco to $195 at Holden.

Yes it is easy to change but a real pain. Here is a guide which may or may not be correct.

1. Find fire extinguisher, fire blanket and a safe place. Depressurize fuel system by pulling fuel pump fuse and running car.
2. Drain tank. I can never syphon these things so I remove the lower bolt from the fuel pump and fuel level sender holder and drain into a bucket.
3. Disconnect fuel pump and fuel sender electrical connectors.
4. Disconnect fuel line to tank.
5. Remove the bolts holding the fuel pump and fuel sender holder.
6. Remove holder and disconnect fuel pump connector.
7. Slide pulsator away from fuel pump and work fuel pump out of the holder.
8. Put the new fuel pump in and reassemble using the new rubber bits.
9. Fit holder back into tank using a new cork gasket (came with fuel pump). Make sure it is in the right way.
10. Now while the tank is empty now is a good time to drop the tank slightly and change those plastic breather tubes which are so old that they are probably cracked and broken. There are two on the top of the tank. I used fuel line instead. While you're at it you might as well change any other suspect fuel lines.
11. Also while the fuel system is depressurized why not change the fuel filter as well.
12. Bolt up the tank if you have dropped it.
13. Reconnect the fuel lines to the fuel pump holder.
14. Reconnect the electrical connectors to the fuel pump holder.
15. Put some fuel into the tank and check for leaks.
16. Replace fuse. Prime the fuel system by turning the car on and check for leaks.
17. Start car and go................

[greenacc]

Hey guys , guess what !!! threw a new fuel filter in it today and did a lap of the block. Fingers crossed, the problem seems to have disappeared !!! The only noise i can hear now when you stick your head under the tank is a faint gurgling noise. I'm hoping thats the return line ?
Anyway, i'm calling it fixed until the problem comes back. I was in no rush to go pulling the tank out in 40 degree heat, so thanks to the wise man who suggested doing the filter. Rep points coming your way.

[undar8ed1]

Oh well there you have it if it plays up you`ve got all you need here to do ya pump

[hako]

Here's another wise word....change the filter again in a month or so as it's 10 to 1 you've got a load of dirty fuel and you'll keep blocking the filter till its all gone.
What are "rep points"?

[ephect]

Here's another wise word....change the filter again in a month or so as it's 10 to 1 you've got a load of dirty fuel and you'll keep blocking the filter till its all gone.
What are "rep points"?

rep points is a rating system, if a post has been helpful u can click the scales in the top right hand corner of the post and give the person a couple reputation points for helping out. u can also give someone negative rep if you think the post gives wrong information.

houver the mouse of the green block under the ride info to see how many reputation points you have. sometimes a good guide to see if the person is reputable

[hako]

rep points is a rating system, if a post has been helpful u can click the scales in the top right hand corner of the post and give the person a couple reputation points for helping out. u can also give someone negative rep if you think the post gives wrong information.

houver the mouse of the green block under the ride info to see how many reputation points you have. sometimes a good guide to see if the person is reputable

Tried that - it says "hako statesman"....same as yours?

[hako]

OK - I savvy it now....no numbers, just models. Thanks.

[ephect]

lol yea im currently statesman. you should be able to see all the comments and a number under your 'user cp'

[Scooter79]

Click the scales to give rep.

Easy way to check how bad the old fuel filter was is to try blow through it. Then compare that to the new filter.