Help w/ eliminating engine 'cutting out' problem

[RJM]

Ok, I have recently purchased an Auto V6 VS and thanks to the previous owner conveniently forgetting to mention that the engine randomly cuts out! , I am left to diagnose and repair the problem.

Symptoms
- Engine randomly cuts out (seems to be when under light throttle)
- Vehicle might have a little lag (sorry hard to tell - it's our 1st VS)

So far I have run the diagnostics and it returns code 12, so according to diagnostics everything is okay (Thanks to those that contributed to the very helpful how to's!)

With this is mind what can be ruled out?

ie CAS, Immobiliser, Fuel pressure...?

THANKS in advance for any advise!


Cheers,

Ryan

[-=ApheX=-]

CAS for sure, but with out an error code giving you an idea of where to start looking it'd be hard to be sure about either component!

[RJM]

CAS for sure, but with out an error code giving you an idea of where to start looking it'd be hard to be sure about either component!

Did this exact problem happen to you?

I was under the impression a faulty CAS would cause a fault to be logged. No?


Cheers,

Ryan

[-=ApheX=-]

yeah i had the exact same problem happen to me, but i kinda had a feeling that that was the case cause when sitting and idling it would cut out, it would kick over fine, but traveling along it would cut out again... typical CAS problem, it's not a hard thing to fix, but i had mine done by a mobile mechanic as my car wouldn't turn over after this problem persisted for a while, and i didn't have any tools to remove the harmonic balancer!
Yeah a fault is normally logged, but i cannot remember if i had noticed a fault on mine as i was having issues with outher things at the time...
So i would proably suggest getting that done first..
But answer me this, when cold does the car crank over?
if it cranks over does it sputter and have a hard time trying to idle normally?

[RJM]

But answer me this, when cold does the car crank over?
if it cranks over does it sputter and have a hard time trying to idle normally?

Yes. Cranks over AND starts fine when cold.

Can't say i've noticed any spluttering either.

After the engine cuts out - it will start again after 30 secs maybe 1 minute tops. I've also poured water over the CAS and it has started (however this may just be a coincidence, as i takes a minute to do this)

Thanks,

Ryan

[ephect]

as -=ApheX=- has meantioned all the symtoms you are experiencing point to the CAS.

has the car had a recent service at all? i would also invest in some fuel, oil, and air filters and some decent oil and give her a service. possibly even plugs and leads if they're looking old.

[tristanjp]

mines been randomly cutting out aswell, i've had mine recently serviced and nothing was wrong, i rang up a holden dealer and they suggested it was the Immobiliser

apparently as the key gets older and circuts get loose etc it causes the car to think its being stolen all the time lol

they only cost $105~ for a new key, shit all really

[RJM]

Thanks everyone.

Anyone know of a fail-safe way to test either the immobiliser or CAS?

I thought i read in another post that the immobiliser could be bypassed or similar for testing purposes?

Cheers,

Ryan

[RJM]

as -=ApheX=- has meantioned all the symtoms you are experiencing point to the CAS.

has the car had a recent service at all? i would also invest in some fuel, oil, and air filters and some decent oil and give her a service. possibly even plugs and leads if they're looking old.

I suspected the CAS too - but no one has confirmed yet if a fault would be logged if this were the case.

Oil and oil filter were done in the first week of ownership - a must . I'll be doing a full service in about 2k unless I find a faulty lead/ plug or something.

Cheers,

Ryan

[ephect]

the fact that when you poored cold water over the CAS and it started straight away gives that theory another nudge.

you can always gently bend upthe metal pronges around the ignition barrel to make better contact with the keyhead. dont be rough or yank it up coz u dont wanna break it.

if you wanted to totaly rule out the bcm, get another one with matching key from a wreckers and plug in, that would rule out the bcm (providing you get a good one).

[-=ApheX=-]

as far as i know, and as experiance tells me depending just on error codes alone will not give you a diffinative answer, as all this does is relay issue's back...
ok eg:
If i had a solenoid problem with the transmission i'll get an error code, of either 1-2 (solinoid farked) or 2-3 (solinoid fark) but that dosn't mean it actually is! it would mean it could possibly be that...
But as I can see that most people agree that this is the case I would start troubleshooting from this point...
As for the immobilizer, well couldn't hurt to replace and have spare key transponder unit could it?
Good luck mate!

[moff_man]

i just repaced my key reader with a up dated one from a vx with the complete ring and i have had no issues with no starting, before it did nothing and it was realy frustrating, but now i have no issues cost $7 cost price retail more than likley $10 and its a 5 sec job