Clutch Bleeding issues

[the_duke]

Hi guys i got some info off cander24 Very helpful but struggling to figure out my problem.

Here are the instructions of got of cander24

Originally Posted by the_duke
hey mate,

Can you give me a run down on how to bleed my clutch?

Thanks
Hey Mate. Bleeding your clutch is a fairly easy diy job and is done the same way as bleeding your brakes. Start to finish should take maybe 30 mins but allow extra time if doing this sort of thing is new to you. I'll try and explain the procedure the best I can:

*Jack up the front of the car far enough so you can get yourself under the gearbox area with room to work and then put some car stands under it for safety.

*Locate the slave cylinder on the drivers side of the gearbox near where it says "Getrag". It has a thin steel pipe connected to it. Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder valve (which looks like a grease nipple) and attach a 40cm length of clear hose to the bleeder valve that is a good tight fit over it (its about 4mm from memory). Then place the other end of this hose in a glass jar that has a small amount of brake fluid in it. Make sure this amount is enough to keep the end of the hose fully submerged in the fluid.

*Locate the clutch master cylinder reservoir in the drivers side of the engine bay. It is a small circular clear container with a black threaded cap and is located right next to the brake fluid reservoir. Unthread the cap and top up the fluid level with new quality Dot 4 brake fluid to the full level and make sure this level never falls below half during the bleeding procedure.

*Now you will need a second person to assist, one in the car and one person under the car. Hold the glass jar and ensure the end of the hose is fully submerged (otherwise it will suck air back into the line). Slowly pump the clutch pedal a few times and then while it is being depressed, open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder which from memory requires a 10mm spanner. You should now see fluid come out of the hose that will most likely look dirty and contain small air bubbles. Then, while this fluid is still escaping from the bleed valve, close it off again. Slowly let the clutch pedal rise again and repeat the procedure several times until no more air bubbles are coming out of the line and the fluid coming out is fresh and clean. Don't forget to keep checking the fluid level and topping up the master cylinder reservoir.

*Once you're satisfied this step is complete, retighten the bleed valve and remove the hose from it. Put the rubber dust cap back on the bleed valve.

*Lower the car back down to the ground and then top up the clutch master cylinder reservoir to the full level and screw the cap back on and you're all done.

As a side note, this should be done every 1-2 years to keep the system in good operating condition. This is because the fluid becomes less effective and spongy over time as the metal fluid lines condense and therefore you end up with condensation (water) mixed in with the brake fluid.

Good luck with it and feel free to shoot me another message if you're unsure of something or I have not explained something very well.
Cheers,

Chris.

I have been trying for the past hour. or so.

I have topped up the resivour,
Put a small 4mm hose onto the bleeding nipple and into a container with some fulid in it. Making sure its always covering the hole of the pipe.
Then cracked open the bleeding nipple to find that nothing comes out, even when pumping the clutch lever?

Have also tried to take out the nipple and pumping the clutch pedal. Still nothing?

Can any one help me or give me any ideas?

Thanks

[hako]

With the bleed nipple removed, does the slave cylinder move at all....does it move the clutch release lever? I've seen where the bleeder hole inder the bleeder screw has been blocked with rust and it sounds like this may be your problem. You could try inserting some thin copper wire into where the bleeder hole should be and maybe this will dislodge the rust. However, if it is rust blocking the hole you'd be well advised to remove and disassemble the slave cylinder and clean as it sounds like the fluid has never been changed which means the fluid is contaminated with moisture which then rusts the cyclinder. Good Luck.

[the_duke]

With the bleed nipple removed, does the slave cylinder move at all....

What do you mean move at all? With the nipple removed nothing comes out of the (hole) left from the bleen nipple?

does it move the clutch release lever?

Yes my clutch is still working, I drove it up the drive yesterday seams to be fine!

The bleed nipple isnt block as i can blow air through it?





Thanks mate, im going to go and remove the slave cylinder, and give her a old fashioned cleaning.

[the_duke]

I have finished pulling my slave cylinder out to find that the green, rubber seal/cover has ruptured. also the little bleed nipple hole was blocked.

Here are some pics,




I have called Repco and Autobahn and they all say that i will have to purchase the whole slave cylinder for $299-$580

What do i do? any ideas?

[cander24]

You can buy new seal kits for the slave cylinder and rebuild them yourself as long as there is no excessive amount of wear in the clyinder bore as this cannot be honed. Alternatively alot of brake/clutch shops do exchange your old unit for a rebuilt unit. Try ringing a holden dealership and see what price they want for a rebuild kit.

[hako]

That torn green seal is to keep dirt out - the bit that seals against pressure is part of the piston and probably is OK. To get back on the road you could just clean it all and reassemble using brake fluid as a lubricant when assembling as your problem was a blocked bleeder hole and not the actual seal on the piston leaking. Take the old green seal into any brake place and they should be able to give you a similar seal/boot.
Probably would also pay to flush some new brake fluid thru the whole system to remove any other crap. Good Luck.

[mattyr82]

is that a getrag box i got a new slave cylinder in bundoora fitted for about 150 from memory for my vs v6, dont quote me on this but i dont think they need bleeding, and definately dont need adjusting.

[the_duke]

Okay, So what i will do is go to a brake and clutch joint tomorrow.

Repco was saying that they do not make a rebuilt kit for them.

The cylinder is fine, The only thing that is wrong is the Green, boot that is torn.

So Autobahn are calling me tomorrow with some info on a rebuild kit or a new cylinder (if they have anything)

If they cant get anything i will try a brake and clutch place tomorrow arvo.

Thanks for your help.

Mitchy