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Thread: Level 3 cluster in Executive (Not the usual)

  1. #1
    OzJD's Avatar
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    Default Level 3 cluster in Executive (Not the usual)

    I know I can upgrade, I have the pieces allread

    I was looking at Tripin'... and I noticed that even on the wiring diagrams, everything is assumed plug and play.

    Now I just checked out the writing on the clusters and noticed several inconsistencies.
    The four red bits are my concerns (not so much the fourth one) - Have a look and reply with your thoughts on them here please

    I very much doubt that I would even try changing the config of it, Just thought a few things might be odd, ie. if you had Air bags or LED kit

    Thanks in advance
    OzJD
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Level 3 cluster in Executive (Not the usual)-vr-vs-cluster-upgrade-differences.png  
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    My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!

    Quote Originally Posted by 88GreenVN View Post
    Missing teeth from the diff is terminal as in diff no worky. Crunch crunch bank snap and then STOP.

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    I would assume if you have the level 3 wiring harness that the wiring alterations are already on it. If you change the Con 2 4&5 you would have the effect you mention. Con3 is your indication lights so they would be wirered in the harness.
    With the level 3 harness it is all plug and play.

  3. #3
    OzJD's Avatar
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    If only it was that easy, I don't have the L3 harness, just the plugs... Going outside to play with the wires!!!
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    My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!

    Quote Originally Posted by 88GreenVN View Post
    Missing teeth from the diff is terminal as in diff no worky. Crunch crunch bank snap and then STOP.

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    A VR/S dosnt have a press remote light. Are you sure what you have there is not vn/p.
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    OzJD's Avatar
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    I definately have a 12/93 VR lol.
    Or maybe you meant the cluster? The cluster came with the car and has always worked fine (level 2)... maybe its just an extra link from the BCM, like the one that controls the blinkers when you press the button

    Anyhow, I've done connectors 2 and 3 allready - Had to stop as I have a 12:30 appointment with an insurance company (assessor)

    Was pleasantly surprised when the odometer said 192xxx (didn't know what to expect since I didn't ask when I bought it - Didn't care)

    Is it normal for the odometer to stay on whilst the car is off? I'm guessing so, but just checking.

    Anyhow, I still have yet to do connector 1, and the trip computer.
    All of it appears to be working, LCD's are fine etc... Showing
    [.0l/100k] with 660kms to go before tank is empty (but I have like under 1/4 (about to fill up) - I don't expect it to work properly til I get the extra wire, and connector 1 done.

    I'm happy though, the wiring all looks very neat (lots of black electrical tape = no wires laying around)
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    My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!

    Quote Originally Posted by 88GreenVN View Post
    Missing teeth from the diff is terminal as in diff no worky. Crunch crunch bank snap and then STOP.

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    OzJD's Avatar
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    Oh and its a ****ing lovely day to finally have a petrol light!!!
    My mrs VR II has one, and it's great (I always run out without it)... yeh yeh I know, don't let the tank get empty.
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    My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!

    Quote Originally Posted by 88GreenVN View Post
    Missing teeth from the diff is terminal as in diff no worky. Crunch crunch bank snap and then STOP.

  7. #7
    OzJD's Avatar
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    All is going well, Not gonna do anymore til this arvo when it cools a little, Nothing registers yet but all the screens are working

    Oh, I lied, its has 197891 on the odometer, still lower than it was before! but should it stay on 24/7 when the car is off?!?
    Current mods/repairs:
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    My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!

    Quote Originally Posted by 88GreenVN View Post
    Missing teeth from the diff is terminal as in diff no worky. Crunch crunch bank snap and then STOP.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzJD View Post
    All is going well, Not gonna do anymore til this arvo when it cools a little, Nothing registers yet but all the screens are working

    Oh, I lied, its has 197891 on the odometer, still lower than it was before! but should it stay on 24/7 when the car is off?!?
    Yep ODO stays on all the time

    Also the trip computer resets DTE when the power is cut off. It will adjust every 2 mins until it gets low then every 30 secs
    White 05 V6 VZ Executive - Thrashed Ex Telstra car
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    i want to do this to to my s pack. how hard is it to do and what do i need? wiring harness, cluster itself, trip computer button panel and then is it all plug and play or what??
    Last edited by muggo05; 23-02-2009 at 07:20 PM. Reason: forgot something
    Bite off more than you can chew, then chew like hell - Peter Brock

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    ok i know what i need but i am not electrical and cant do this myself. does anyone know of anyone in sydney who can help me out?
    Bite off more than you can chew, then chew like hell - Peter Brock

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    OzJD's Avatar
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    I would... But I don't like experimenting on other people's cars... Have a look in the first post, there's a link to "Tripin..." and on that page there is a wiring diagram
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    My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!

    Quote Originally Posted by 88GreenVN View Post
    Missing teeth from the diff is terminal as in diff no worky. Crunch crunch bank snap and then STOP.

  12. #12
    OzJD's Avatar
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    I should also note that at the moment it plays a chime every now and then, Hopefully that will sort it self out when I bother to finish off the wiring.
    Current mods/repairs:
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    My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!

    Quote Originally Posted by 88GreenVN View Post
    Missing teeth from the diff is terminal as in diff no worky. Crunch crunch bank snap and then STOP.

  13. #13
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    you will get a chime for low fuel and handbrake on above 10km/h and maybe high temp but im not shure about temp

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    OzJD's Avatar
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    Since I havnt installed a fuel wire yet, i'll presume its that
    Current mods/repairs:
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    My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!

    Quote Originally Posted by 88GreenVN View Post
    Missing teeth from the diff is terminal as in diff no worky. Crunch crunch bank snap and then STOP.

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    dont wanna highjack this thread but talking about fuel lights. on me vr it has teh fuel light provision but no bulb....is it a matter of installing the bulb and it will work? i dont think so but just want a second opinion as i have already installed teh bulb but it dont look liek it will light up lol

    cheers

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    If it's a stock series 1, it wont have fuel light unfortunately... allthough series 2 (with Speed Alert) has it.

    So, it seems you need Trip Computer or Speed Alert
    Current mods/repairs:
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    My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!

    Quote Originally Posted by 88GreenVN View Post
    Missing teeth from the diff is terminal as in diff no worky. Crunch crunch bank snap and then STOP.

  17. #17
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    It's done... there's a few things I want to know though

    1. When the car is on, but instruments lights not on, the LCD's are lit up bright... once I turn the instrument lighting on, they goto the same lightness as the demister, any ideas why/is it normal
    2. The hank brake alarm does not show/sound at all (even above 40km/h).... ideas why?
    3. The petrol usage does not show at present (allthough it does show how much is left in tank), I'm guessing this is because it's not connected to the DFI (the wire that goes to ECU area).
    4. Where is the connector near the ECU that the extra wire needs to go? Wife had a look and couldnt find it.
    5. There is sometimes a tune that plays and it goes like 1,2,3,3,3 or something, nothing is lighting up, not sure what the sound is for - possibly related to the DFI wire that remains unconnected.

    All in all, not very hard but fiddly, and I had to make my own connector for the trip computer (i'm waiting to receive the proper one).. I used an old computer CD Audio cable, that is show below

    Current mods/repairs:
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    My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!

    Quote Originally Posted by 88GreenVN View Post
    Missing teeth from the diff is terminal as in diff no worky. Crunch crunch bank snap and then STOP.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by OzJD View Post
    It's done... there's a few things I want to know though

    1. When the car is on, but instruments lights not on, the LCD's are lit up bright... once I turn the instrument lighting on, they goto the same lightness as the demister, any ideas why/is it normal
    2. The hank brake alarm does not show/sound at all (even above 40km/h).... ideas why?
    3. The petrol usage does not show at present (allthough it does show how much is left in tank), I'm guessing this is because it's not connected to the DFI (the wire that goes to ECU area).
    4. Where is the connector near the ECU that the extra wire needs to go? Wife had a look and couldnt find it.
    5. There is sometimes a tune that plays and it goes like 1,2,3,3,3 or something, nothing is lighting up, not sure what the sound is for - possibly related to the DFI wire that remains unconnected.

    All in all, not very hard but fiddly, and I had to make my own connector for the trip computer (i'm waiting to receive the proper one).. I used an old computer CD Audio cable, that is show below


    1.) The LCD screens are constantly lit no matter if the headlights are on or off. They do seem a little bright but you do have some adjustment with the headlight dimmer switch.

    2.) Are you sure that you have a VR/VS cluster? These clusters do not have "PRESS REMOTE" warning light - only the L3 VN/VP clusters did.

    3.) You will need to connect up the wire that runs from the dash loom to the plug near the ECU.

    4). Answered in the Tripin thread.

    5). Sorry, no idea. Hook the yellow cable up first then get back to us.

  19. #19
    VrWagz1's Avatar
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    The plug is near the Passenger kick panel but it is above it you shouldnt need to take it off you will have to take the glove box out out the panel under the bottom. It is a fairly chunkyish looking plug with 8 wires in it i think.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

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    Quote Originally Posted by seraphic06 View Post
    1.) The LCD screens are constantly lit no matter if the headlights are on or off. They do seem a little bright but you do have some adjustment with the headlight dimmer switch.
    2.) Are you sure that you have a VR/VS cluster? These clusters do not have "PRESS REMOTE" warning light - only the L3 VN/VP clusters did.
    3.) You will need to connect up the wire that runs from the dash loom to the plug near the ECU.
    4). Answered in the Tripin thread.
    5). Sorry, no idea. Hook the yellow cable up first then get back to us.
    1. It seems they are lit at full brighness and dimmer switch dosn't work UNTIL I turn the headlights on (dimmer seems inactive when off) - But seems fairly normal
    2. Yes, it's out of a VS Berlina - It also connected fine to my stock VR loom, I've read around (on here) that the press remote was just a leftover from VN/VP and does not do anything on VR/VS units
    3. Done :-) Petrol consumtion now works fine :-)
    4. As above, Found it! Cheers
    5. I'll upload an audio file of it soon, see if anyone recognises what it is for?
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    My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!

    Quote Originally Posted by 88GreenVN View Post
    Missing teeth from the diff is terminal as in diff no worky. Crunch crunch bank snap and then STOP.

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    Appears it is the handbrake tone. I think the light might be faulty.
    I've noticed the tone only happens when i'm at about 2000-2500rpm in 1st gear (its an auto) so I was thinking it was from it changing gears.
    Someone had the same issue: beep beep bip bip bip

    I'll check the cluster lights & PCB, and the handbrake switch, I might have bumped something when I just put in a new centre console (with the window switches)
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    My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!

    Quote Originally Posted by 88GreenVN View Post
    Missing teeth from the diff is terminal as in diff no worky. Crunch crunch bank snap and then STOP.

  22. #22
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    Yeh everything else seems fine other than the handbrake.
    I'm just excited about the fuel light, it rocks more than those LCDs!!!
    Current mods/repairs:
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    My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!

    Quote Originally Posted by 88GreenVN View Post
    Missing teeth from the diff is terminal as in diff no worky. Crunch crunch bank snap and then STOP.

  24. #24
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    As suspected, it was the handbrake alert sound!
    Good news is that once I had replaced the bulb, the alarm stopped going off, and now everything works normally (over 20km/h with handbrake up = alert, handbrake up at any speed = light) :-)

    I guess this brings completion to the installation of my level 3 cluster.
    Regards,
    OzJD.
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    My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!

    Quote Originally Posted by 88GreenVN View Post
    Missing teeth from the diff is terminal as in diff no worky. Crunch crunch bank snap and then STOP.

  25. #25
    LJay is offline Beware...Lady Driver :P
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    YAY!!!!

    Now we just have to organise time for you to go to mum and dads and get Dad to help you with those pesky electric windows :P

    So excited we no longer have the most musical VR in the history of VR's hahahaha

    Love you hun <3

    P.S I am the OP's wife

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