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Thread: A warning when changing a pulley

  1. #1
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    Default A warning when changing a pulley

    Today I was replacing the AC idler pulley (the other flat idler, not the tensioner). I unscrewed the bolt, all good. Then I went to pull the pulley off as it was stuck on. Well, I broke the damn support (the bit behind the pulley with the thread in it).

    See photo 1, taken after the AC idler pulley (bottom one) and the one above were removed. The bottom one is supposed to look like the top one (excuse the filthy engine).

    Photo 2 shows the broken bit, after I tapped it out of the pulley. Looks like there was some moisture that's caused rust, hence being stuck.

    Photo 3 shows the support removed by removing 3 nuts. I'll be head'n to the wrecker tomorrow for a new one. It's part no. 92048388.

    LESSON - wait until the engine cools before removing pulleys, and possibly spray a bit of wd-40 before hand to loosen it up.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails A warning when changing a pulley-img_0123_resize.jpg   A warning when changing a pulley-img_12611_resize.jpg   A warning when changing a pulley-img_0122_resize.jpg  

  2. #2
    hako is offline Donating Member
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    You've got it all wrong vs_wagon, never admit that you broke it.....it was the ham-fisted previous owner's fault.
    Good post.

  3. #3
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    Yeah true... it seems the previous owner forgot to grease the shaft before replacing the pulley.

    Prevention is always better than a cure.

  4. #4
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    Cool Pulley lifespan???

    Good post.

    I just broke mine off today as well, about 2 hours after the local Holden dealer closed for the weekend. The pulley came off fine and the stub fell out by itself, not stuck in at all. The only thing I can put it down to was the bolt was over-tightened last time the pulley was replaced. I usually change them myself, but the last time I got my mechanic to do it while he was doing the regular service

    I'm interested to know what the lifespan of the pulleys should be. I have had the car for about 330,000 k's and I must have changed the set of 3 pulleys half a dozen times by now. That's just over 50,000 per set. Is that normal?? It seems a rather short lifespan to me, or am I a little over-sensitive to the squeek they develop and need to harden up a bit

  5. #5
    immortality's Avatar
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    i think it has to do with the fact that they only used a single row, deep groove roller bearing. would have been better with a double row bearing. i use steel replacment rollers that you can change the bearing on if they fail, which they all eventually do. considering getting a local machinist to turn me up a couple alloy ones with double row bearings. better for belt alignment also
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  6. #6
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    For what it's worth, I asked at Bursons about new bearings for my old pulleys and he pointed out that the new pulleys are only $22 each complete anyway. I think I got a bit of a discount, but I figure for that price it saves stuffing around swapping bearings out

    That compares very favourably to the price I got last time I bought them from Holden at between $50 and $70 each.

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  8. #8
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    aceventura is offline Doesn't drive like this
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    I had something almost identical happen to me.

    As I was screwing the bolt out, it started to get more and more difficult. What I didn't know was that the end of the bolt had a huge amount rust on it, and as I was screwing it out, it was stripping the thread on the inside. Eventually it broke the mounting, and I was stuffed as the Holden dealer was 30km away, and I didn't have another car.

  9. #9
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    when you replace the bearings you can get c3 bearings instead of the norm. They would have a longer life. c3 is a higher heat rating bearing for faster spinning. Also maybe contact seal instead of normal seal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by centy View Post
    when you replace the bearings you can get c3 bearings instead of the norm. They would have a longer life. c3 is a higher heat rating bearing for faster spinning. Also maybe contact seal instead of normal seal.
    C3 is a extra clearance bearing sometimes used for high heat appliations (if you use the proper heat rated grease). wouldn't use it forthis application however. the bearing is the only thing holding the roller allignment which is why a single deep groove roller bearing isn't really the correct choice for this application, using a C3 bearing will allow more movement of the outer race meaning the pulley will ahve more movement. just a poor desing really.
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  11. #11
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    That's what you get for levering it off with a screw driver......
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  12. #12
    mrkozzy is offline Mrkozzy
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    Default Genuine pulleys the best.

    After 3 sets of 'best quality' pulleys from the local pulley suppliers, (usual suspects), over the past 6 years I called Holden development dept to ask why my pulleys were not going the distance. Found out the pulleys on my supercharged VS are specially made in Canada to suit the motor. (Its a Buick engine in the Vs series 2). Seems 2 mechanics and myself had replaced the pulleys correctly in the past, however the local variety were never going to go the distance. The reason the supercharged engine was imported in the first place was the failure of local components, to keep up with the strain.
    Put a set of genuine "imported" pulleys on last year and so far so good.
    Tip: spend the bucks and change them all at the same time. When one goes, the others aren't far behind.
    VS series ll 340,000 klms.....About to take the rocker covers off and change the gaskets.
    First time the engines been opened since new!

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