Hi All,
Am after the wiring diagram on the Level 1 Cluster, if anyone has it that would be awesome!
If possible the wiring diagram for the BCM aswell, mainly pin outs and what controls what...
Also, does anyone have any specifications on how the needles are controlled? whether its pulse (I'm sort of thinking this might be the case...) or a simple analogue signal (0V is 0km/h... 12V is 220km/h etc).
I'm assuming the status lights are just On or Off.... duh :P
I need to be able to daisy chain off the Speedo, RPM, ODO (pulse click every 20-25 meters?), Fuel, and possibly the temperature (just for kicks)...
What's it for? Well...
I'm looking at designing my own Trip Computer using a microcontroller coupled with a graphics LCD, much like what you find on newer Commodores... pretty!...
From what I've read... it would be ALOT easier (and more entertaining :P) then sourcing another Level 3 cluster with similair ODO without LCD bleeding, wiring looms, potentially another BCM and the Trip Control box... which ironically I already have as I'll use it to control the micro in a similair fashion.
The moment I find a Calais at the local wreckers... it's already been gutted
Cheers, Nem04
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ifferences.png
That should give you enough info on the pinouts for Level 1 cluster (the level 1/2 is interchangable) - So make sure to use Level 2 info (I wrote both Level 2 AND level 3 stuff)
There's no color coding, but the connectors are quiet obvious.
Hope this helps,
Also, i'd really like to see what you come up with :-)
Might even do one if you can get together a prototype
If you need some assistance, give me a PM
Current mods/repairs:
Power Windows Installation (70% Complete)
Current Issue(s)
N/A
My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!
I just did a l3 conversion, all you need is a level 3 cluster (which isnt that hard to find without bleeding), and the 4th connector plug, and some decent wiring/soldering skills. lol
Oh, and the trip computer :P (I got mine like that)... But your idea sounds good, similar to what I wanna do with my car PC, If you can get something happening, I really wanna see!!!
I'm pretty sure it's voltages that change the items, and they don't go 0-12v, but rather something like 4.4v-6.6v (this isn;t verified - just what i've read).
Either way, you're going to need a multimeter. so find out for us :P
Current mods/repairs:
Power Windows Installation (70% Complete)
Current Issue(s)
N/A
My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!
oh and i'm sure you know this, but don't drain the voltages from the signals, your ECU will hate you for it.
Oh. one more thing (no, I won't post the 4th time in a row lol) - Welcome to Just Commodores.
Current mods/repairs:
Power Windows Installation (70% Complete)
Current Issue(s)
N/A
My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!
Thanks for the table of connections, appreciate it
If i'm just reading voltages and placing them through an ADC through the uC the current drain on the signal would be negligible. The BCM would really be that sensitive to that extra load? How would I go about drawing a signal... Hmmm...
Although, Some of the spec sheets i've seen at work (Bosch... huzzah! discount parts :P) do list some BCM driving currents to be very small... but... /strokes stubble
Anyways;
It's that easy to change the dash? (wiring another connector shouldn't be too hard if I can utilise the existing loom)... I ride in a Series I Acclaim... but you've got a VR Series I Exec... Seems i've been reading from the wrong sources :P
Edit:
Oh and thanks for the warm welcome! Long time lurker, first time poster :P
Its a bit off stuffing around but if you tech minded(and it sounds you might be) a "buffer amp" would maybe help you out if you think your going to drain the signal source too much with what your doing. You'll need a op-amp chip from dicksmiths or somthing, but you'll also need a dual dc power supply
VrWagz1: Yeah an Op-Amp would do it, but i still need to know how the values are communicated to the dash, alas, i'll have to pull the multimeter out tomorrow if I get a chance. Thanks Mate
OzJD: Have you got a worklog on your cluster changeover? Would be very interested...
you could go another way and perhaps use the aldl output if you have anyway of using a microcontroller to do it .we have just started on a similar but different sort of project using a nintendo DS as an on dash aldl display that will work much like a trip computer code scanner/aldl veiwer its in the aldl topics over here delcohacking.net • Index page
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
I don't think it will be too easy to drain the voltage, unless you do something like connect a bulb to the speedo wire
Using the ALDL connector is an idea, but I think you would get a lot more latency when you're collecting data about everything for the micro controller.
Do I have a worklog? Do you mean what did I change? All of the wiring for the connectors were sourced from the existing 3 plugs, except for one (the efi?) which can be found near the ECU
Current mods/repairs:
Power Windows Installation (70% Complete)
Current Issue(s)
N/A
My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!
Here's what I've found so far...
For the Tachometer a 12V pulse (square wave) at a certain frequency denotes what RPM is displayed.
A formula to calculate the RPM or Freq is as follows.
RPM = (1/50) Freq - 0.4, or, Freq (Hz) = (RPM + 0.4)*50
Note: for 0RPM if the signal has a 0Hz signal, the needle is not as 'quick' to 'flick' to accuratly dispaly what RPM the Cam Shaft Sensor(or something...) is sending to the ECU.
This would be simple to interface to the microcontroller, a pin that looks for a change in period from low to high (or high to low) to calculate the frequency. Can be setup with Interupts or a simple delay loop that monitors the pin every x second(s).
Although what I did find strange was when I had my CRO hooked up to my frequency generator (was bench testing an old Cluster) the needle would only move when I had the CRO attached to the signal line... I had the frequency going through the base of a BC337 transistor, a 12V source connected to the collector and the signal (Tacho) connected to the Emitter. I can only immagine a grounding issue... but will solve that later.
Now... for the Speedo!
Are you still going with this? I'm guessing not![]()
Current mods/repairs:
Power Windows Installation (70% Complete)
Current Issue(s)
N/A
My Holden doesn't leak, It's just marking it's territory!
Nah unfortunately not, I ran across an L3 cluster and I wired that up in the end. Although the project's still on the books and I'll look at it when I get some time... hahaha... time... will keep you updated though. How's your setup going?