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Thread: VS V6 not starting

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    Default VS V6 not starting

    Hi all,
    I'm in need of some advice. I have a 96 VS sedan that wont start. I have checked the normal things and have come down to the EFI system. If I spray some "Start ya Bastard" down the air cleaner it fires. It wont run on it but it's something. I have fuel up to the injectors and that's where I'm at.
    Can anyone give me some direction on what to do next and where the EFI module etc is located. I have no book.

    Thanks in advance
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    hako is offline Donating Member
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    Having fuel at the injectors doesn't mean they will inject fuel as it needs to be at the correct pressure...too low and it won't squirt. Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you first turn the key? ....if not check the relays under the bonnet - swap the EFI and fuel pump one with another...also check fuses. The fuel filter could be blocked and stopping fuel getting pumped or the pump might be buggered - sometimes you can restart the pump by thumping gently on the bottom of the tank - this jolts the pump.
    Try reading the error codes which is easy - I'll attach the link. Hope this helps you out.
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    Thanks, I have changed the relay and the pump is working when turning on the key. it stops when the pressure is up (I guess). I haven't done the code check yet. is there anything other than the pump problem as a "common" fault?
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    coil packs and dfi module are another, when mine went it would fire sometimes but wouldn't run, the dfi board sits under the coil packs.

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    hako is offline Donating Member
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    Do that codes check otherwise you are shooting blind. You also may need to get your battery charged - Commodores need a good battery plus clean tight terminals.
    Re the fuel pump working - it will run for about 2 secs when you first turn the key on to "prime" the fuel lines (the ECU does this automatically), however this does not always mean that the lines are actually "primed" - if the fuel filter is blocked, the fuel pump cannot supply enough fuel to prime the fuel lines to a pressure sufficient to allow the injectors to squirt the fuel into the cylinders. New filters are under $20 and should be changed every 2 years according to the factory.

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    Yep, I ave done the battery terminals and put in a brand new battery. with regards to fuel pressure, I removed the input line and turned the key. I had a very good stream of fuel at the rail.I will replace the filter (if I can find it) I beleive this is located along the chassis rail? Will do the code check tomorrow night and see what code comes up.

    Thanks for all your input.
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    ok i have checked for codes and the only code that came out was 31. (and12) I have narrowed it down to that I have no injector pulse. I have power at the injector and fuel.
    If I spray aero start in the aircleaner it will fire.
    So where to now? EFI module, Computer? HELP
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    31 is vehicle anti theft signal missing so it wont go without that signal immobiliser problem somewhere
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    any more luck with this? I have the same symptoms but no codes (except 12).
    Cheers,

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    Also, did you simply disconnect the fuel line to fuel rail and switch the ingnition to 'on' to test for flow to the fuel rail?

    Cheers,

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    OK, So fill to above half way and it starts and runs fine. Apparantly this is pretty common for station wagons right up to VY models. Well known by fleet managers.

    Cheers,

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    Quote Originally Posted by boults_4545 View Post
    OK, So fill to above half way and it starts and runs fine. Apparantly this is pretty common for station wagons right up to VY models. Well known by fleet managers.

    Cheers,
    Sounds like the return line that dumps the fuel back over the pump and into the swirl pot is disconnected possibly, its the one that you can just get too when you take the bolts out and you have to disconnect that hose before you can pull it al out.

    To OP, is your little red imobiliser light still flashing while your trying to start it. It may be your key or the metal strip around the key barrel is the problem.
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    Ok here is the latest. I have fuel at the rail, I have got spark and runs on Aero start! So that tells me that the DFI Module and crank sensor are fine. I don't have a pulse at the injector still. there is 1/4 of fuel and the fuel pump is priming up and cutting off. I was told by an Auto elec that the theft immobiliser will reset after approx 1 hour with the key on. No go! Does anyone have any last sugestions before I change the computer?
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    Quote Originally Posted by VrWagz1 View Post
    Sounds like the return line that dumps the fuel back over the pump and into the swirl pot is disconnected possibly, its the one that you can just get too when you take the bolts out and you have to disconnect that hose before you can pull it al out.

    To OP, is your little red imobiliser light still flashing while your trying to start it. It may be your key or the metal strip around the key barrel is the problem.
    If it is the imobiliser is stuff how do I bypass it?
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    I'm a bit confused (I'm an old bugger) - is it a V6 or bent 8? - your signature indicates an 8 but you mention a different car. Apart from that, try hotwiring the fuel pump so that it is on when the ignition is on - not sure of the wire colour on the pump but check the wiring diagram - make sure the battery is fully charged .....even new batteries can be half flat and Commos need a good battery. Another possibility is the oilpressure switch which supplies power to the pump once the engine starts.
    If you haven't changed the filter yet I would say that is also a prime suspect as that will result in not enough fuel line prssure to allow the injectors to inject - the filter is located just where the fuel line exits the tank - cost about $15....do it!

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    Quote Originally Posted by hako View Post
    I'm a bit confused (I'm an old bugger) - is it a V6 or bent 8? - your signature indicates an 8 but you mention a different car. Apart from that, try hotwiring the fuel pump so that it is on when the ignition is on - not sure of the wire colour on the pump but check the wiring diagram - make sure the battery is fully charged .....even new batteries can be half flat and Commos need a good battery. Another possibility is the oilpressure switch which supplies power to the pump once the engine starts.
    If you haven't changed the filter yet I would say that is also a prime suspect as that will result in not enough fuel line prssure to allow the injectors to inject - the filter is located just where the fuel line exits the tank - cost about $15....do it!
    Sorry to be confusing. I own a 8 ute but I also have a v6 i was given that I'm working on.
    The fuel pump is working fine. The problem is no injector pulse! I can get a ECU for $50 as thats where I beleive the problem lies.
    I think some people are crossing there threads on this one!

    Thanks
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    Quote Originally Posted by boults_4545 View Post
    Also, did you simply disconnect the fuel line to fuel rail and switch the ingnition to 'on' to test for flow to the fuel rail?

    Cheers,
    Yes that is correct. I didn't have a pressure guage to test it
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    has anyone thought that maybe it could be the ignition barrel? the key may still fit and turn the barrel but if it does not create a current through the barrel then the car will be at the stage were it is ready to start but he wont have any current running to the spark plugs. which it turn is what the immobilizer does when it is not properly deactivated.

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    Quote Originally Posted by A+d+a+m View Post
    has anyone thought that maybe it could be the ignition barrel? the key may still fit and turn the barrel but if it does not create a current through the barrel then the car will be at the stage were it is ready to start but he wont have any current running to the spark plugs. which it turn is what the immobilizer does when it is not properly deactivated.
    The fact that I have spark and it starts on Aerostart means it's not the barrel!
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    OK. I have changed the fuel filter. still the same.....no go. I beleive it must be the computer. $50 from the wreckers so what the hell!

    Thanks for all the replys and if the computer works I will let you all know.
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    you will gewt spark even with the immobiliser on still it shoots out startup spark no matter what.the cas or dfi could be dead even though you have spark.but being that you have code 31 which is the anti theft ide say theres an issue with key or BCM
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    Quote Originally Posted by delcowizzid View Post
    you will gewt spark even with the immobiliser on still it shoots out startup spark no matter what.the cas or dfi could be dead even though you have spark.but being that you have code 31 which is the anti theft ide say theres an issue with key or BCM
    As I have changed the DFI module and coils I can say that is ruled out. How do I check the key? BCM?
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    Hi,

    If you put the key in and turn it to the "on" position does the flashing red immobiliser light go out ? If it doesn't that's a key / key reader / BCM issue. Also VS's have a little feature that if you turn ignition on for something up to two hours ( mines 45 mins ) it will bypass the key reader and BCM ....

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    I have replaced the ECU, DFI and noe the BCM. The red light did go off when the ignition is turned on. I still have the code 31 but. I have now replaced the BCM and the red light on the dash is still flashing and the car will not crank. I am guessing I need to code the BCM in to the key now... HOW! can anyone help me....ASAP

    Thanks
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    have you checked the regulator on the alternator to see if your getting even spark cause if not that can make electrics mental.

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