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Thread: Bleeding brakes (just double checking)

  1. #1
    HRVATSKI_VOJNIK's Avatar
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    Default Bleeding brakes (just double checking)

    k, well tomorrow I'm gonna replace the brake pads on my VS
    I've looked thought my cars workshop manual, read how-tos and watched a few videos (youtube, expertvilige)

    i know what i gotta do just wanna double check with you fellas
    After i replace the pads and put the calipers back, (i'll do some gentle pumps just to get the pads bedded abit) then I'll start the bleeding

    so i'll get the right sized spanner and place it on the bleeder, then put a tube which is lightly coated in brake fluid, have it atleast 2 inches of the tube above the bleeder, and the end in a bottle.

    I'll get the assistant to gently press the brake pedal to half way, open bleeder, let some of the old fluid out, close bleeder and tell the assistant to let the brake pedal go. then repeat this a few times until there is a nice flow of clean fluid coming out of the bleeder. then repeat with the other calipers

    oh yeah, and make sure that the fluid level is around the max mark on the reservoir before bleeding & after bleeding

    then the proper bedding instructions to complete the lot

    i hope i got it right, anything I'm missing?

    thanks

  2. #2
    hako is offline Donating Member
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    You will be pumping old fluid from your master cylinder unless you first syringe out all the old fluid from the master cylinder...also wipe the crap up from the bottom of the MC with paper toweling - then fill up with new fluid. Bleed till the new fluid comes out of the tube - this way you are filling the caliper with new fluid which is not contaminated with water which lowers its boiling point.
    Bleed the rear first, the pass side and lastly drivers side. Clean the bleeder screw and use a ring spanner not an open ender. Be careful not to push the pedal past where you normally push to. (not the end of the world if you do)
    Apart from that it looks like you've done your homework. Have fun and Good Luck.

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    HRVATSKI_VOJNIK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hako View Post
    unless you first syringe out all the old fluid from the master cylinder.
    won't that let air in?, I'm gonna leave abit of the old fluid at the bottom/base of the reservoir, or will that contaminate the new fluid?

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    hako is offline Donating Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by HRVATSKI_VOJNIK View Post
    won't that let air in?, I'm gonna leave abit of the old fluid at the bottom/base of the reservoir, or will that contaminate the new fluid?
    It won't let air in unless you push the pedal before you fill it with new fluid - the outlet is at the very bottom of the MC and you'll notice tiny pieces of crud and mud at the very bottom which you should remove. Good Luck.
    Last edited by hako; 13-04-2009 at 07:05 PM. Reason: sp

  5. #5
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    just pour new fluid ontop of old fluid. Sure it will contaminate a bit with the old fluid, but what are you gonna do, just keep pumping the pedal till clean stuff comes out on the first one and then the other wont even take half that long as the new fluid will already be in the lines then
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

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    sounds like you have all the info u need... just remember to close the bleeder before the assistant lets the pedal up. otherwise you will suck air strait back in the line..
    Just my 2 cents worth...


    Quote Originally Posted by wraith View Post
    Your not cool till your car looks like a dog with worms.

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    Chirpstr's Avatar
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    Wont matter closing the bleeder before you let the pedal up. If the hose is in fluid there is no way of air getting in. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

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    correct wavez, thats the idea of having a hose so you can bleed them yourself without sucking air back in when you get off the pedal.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown V6 Hatch View Post
    Has ACL stopped making flat top pistons or something? Grinding a heap off the heads seems to be the latest fashion...
    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper View Post
    It's cheap and half arsed - perfect fit for a Commodore
    Reaper

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    Quote Originally Posted by hako View Post
    You will be pumping old fluid from your master cylinder unless you first syringe out all the old fluid from the master cylinder...also wipe the crap up from the bottom of the MC with paper toweling - then fill up with new fluid. Bleed till the new fluid comes out of the tube - this way you are filling the caliper with new fluid which is not contaminated with water which lowers its boiling point.
    Bleed the rear first, the pass side and lastly drivers side. Clean the bleeder screw and use a ring spanner not an open ender. Be careful not to push the pedal past where you normally push to. (not the end of the world if you do)
    Apart from that it looks like you've done your homework. Have fun and Good Luck.
    Thats how i done mine the other day .I used a bleeder hose with a one way valve in it .
    there are three types of people in the world , those who can count and those who can't

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wavez View Post
    Wont matter closing the bleeder before you let the pedal up. If the hose is in fluid there is no way of air getting in. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
    Damn straight mate that is it exactly!

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    hako is offline Donating Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wavez View Post
    Wont matter closing the bleeder before you let the pedal up. If the hose is in fluid there is no way of air getting in. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
    Air can get in under certain conditions - if the bleed hose is too long and the first stroke of the pedal does not pump all the air out of the hose the remaining air in the hose will rise up the hose and enter the caliper. Safest way is to close the bleeder at the end of each stroke before the pedal returns.
    Also do not reuse the fluid as the bleed process fills the fluid with tiny bubbles!
    A mate of mine does trucks - bleeds them the opposite way by forcing fluid in thru the bleeder and up to the MC....something to do with the length of the lines (only on certain trucks).

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wavez View Post
    Wont matter closing the bleeder before you let the pedal up. If the hose is in fluid there is no way of air getting in. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
    Sorry, yes you are correct... My bad
    Just my 2 cents worth...


    Quote Originally Posted by wraith View Post
    Your not cool till your car looks like a dog with worms.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hako View Post
    Air can get in under certain conditions - if the bleed hose is too long and the first stroke of the pedal does not pump all the air out of the hose the remaining air in the hose will rise up the hose and enter the caliper. Safest way is to close the bleeder at the end of each stroke before the pedal returns.
    Lol also correct..
    Just my 2 cents worth...


    Quote Originally Posted by wraith View Post
    Your not cool till your car looks like a dog with worms.

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    Depends how long you leave the pumping for I suppose. The bubbles don't move that quick with fluid around them. Clear hose is the go.

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    HRVATSKI_VOJNIK's Avatar
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    thanks for all the info guys

    my dad had a go at playing mechanic and broke one of the smaller radiator outlets on his 95 Land Cruiser, so his using my car till he gets it fixed. He doesn't want me to do anything to my car till then.

    i knew it was gonna be an epic fail but he didn't want to listen
    Last edited by HRVATSKI_VOJNIK; 14-04-2009 at 09:08 AM.

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