My Supercharged VS

[T3T4VT]

Thought id make a post, picked it up the other week off a mate for $2600

1995 VS





Odometer: 232, XXX
Colour: Genisis blue
Engine: Supercharged 3.8L Ecotec 10 PSI Have seen it hit 12 PSI in 3rd and 4th
Trans: T5 5spd Manual
Diff: 3.45, Welded
Wheels: Currently some spares, set of VY Exec 18" going on soon just needs new treads

Dynotuned to 10 PSI.

Will upload pics of it after i give it a wash, it isnt the straightest or nicest looking car, but im still on P's so cant have it looking to flash :P

Future Mods:
Next week i will be putting in a large Cam, duration: 232. Cant remember other specs, same or similar specs as RAJAB VL cams.
Will be putting extractors and 2 1/2 inch exhaust at same time.
Will be going on the dyno early next year so ill be sure to post the results up.

[T3T4VT]

If anyone has any ideas for other mods engine wise that make a big difference for a low budget let me know

[HamaTime™]

Not an L67? Just an Ecotec with an M90 bolted on?

Know if it's running L67 or L36 heads?

As far as mods go, rockers, cam...if you want to go all out, intercooler with FIT intercooler plate. Twin 2.25 exhaust.

[karlos]

Thought id make a post, picked it up the other week off a mate for $2600

1995 VS





Odometer: 232, XXX
Colour: Genisis blue
Engine: Supercharged 3.8L Ecotec 10 PSI Have seen it hit 12 PSI in 3rd and 4th
Trans: T5 5spd Manual
Diff: 3.45, Welded
Wheels: Currently some spares, set of VY Exec 18" going on soon just needs new treads

Dynotuned to 10 PSI.

Will upload pics of it after i give it a wash, it isnt the straightest or nicest looking car, but im still on P's so cant have it looking to flash :P

Future Mods:
Next week i will be putting in a large Cam, duration: 232. Cant remember other specs, same or similar specs as RAJAB VL cams.
Will be putting extractors and 2 1/2 inch exhaust at same time.
Will be going on the dyno early next year so ill be sure to post the results up.

Not being a spoil sport but head over to this website if you want the ins and outs of these setups.L67torque.com.au

The fella would have L67 heads as they are the only ones you can use as the injectors go into the heads on these unlike the L36.

Stay away from FIT(ripoff) and see BYE Performance,MACE or Yella Terra.

If you are doing the cam then are you deleting the balance shaft and running a double row roller master with no tensioner,its not a case of just chucking a cam in it?

I have a feeling you need to learn a little more regarding the needs of these engines before you commit to all these new parts.Stock heads,cam,bottom end,42lb injectors,BYE Air2Air Intercooling(google it,its the bomb),LS1 throttlebody,mafless tune,full exhaust system and Yella Terra split ratio rockers will see over 200rwkw but with enough torque to shift Melbourne(850)rwnm area).Your car with 10psi pulley is hitting 12psi because of the exhaust restriction.Rockers of 1.9 ratio will help to.Anymore than 10psi and these ECU's start to pull timing and you actually go backwards.A fella recently on another forum went from 152rwkw at 14psi to 159rwkw at 10psi(it wasnt pulling timing and made power better everywhere)

Now,heres the deciding question,what is a low budget?A tune alone first up is around $1200 using the Kalmaker to modify your existing ECU,use the standard item as its the best.

[Trayner]

Crazy job man , i like how its like bypassed the idler pully and the belt is routed differently that like you would on a normal l67

[T3T4VT]

My mates a mechanic, he will be putting in the cam, he got the specs for the cam made for my car, works better for forced air.

I will never use FIT as they ripped me off on a cooler setup for my VT. Was thinking about getting an intercooler early next year once im off my P's, am i best to do the injectors at the same time?

Exactly why a full 2 1/2 exhaust with extractors will be going on next week, you can hear it struggle on boost. And thats why it is sitting on 10 PSI, i will not be changing that as i do not want to start rebuilding a bottom end. A low budget is just something i can save towards each week that wont cost alot but will make a big difference as i have alot of fines to pay off atm!

I do not pay anywhere near $1200, my mate thats doing the work on the car used to work for Dynomotive. So he gets cheap tunes done through them.

[karlos]

You will need more than a single 2 1/2" system,twin 2 1/4 is the best way to go.

As for the injectors you will have to see if the std 36lb items can handle it once tuned.The reason for it struggling on boost is because its overboosting for factory parrameters,pulling timing.Refer to my 2nd to last paragraph.

As for the tuning,if you are using the standard ECU(the best)the software alone is $400,this cannot be got cheaper no matter who you know.Add to this a map sensor for the mafless tune and 5 hrs+ at whatever $ an hour and it adds up.Has your mates contacts done tuning through the Kalmaker software before as you may become an expensive guinea pig so to speak.You need tuners that specialize somewhat with L67's imo,hopefully Dynomotive are.

So,we need to know the ECU you plan to use,the power you are chasing(these motors handle 15+ psi no worries,with cam and intercooling reducing psi but raising power),air2air or water to air?,maf or mafless and so on.You are entering the level of modification that leads to around 3k to do it properly and thats with yourself doing some of the work(1k for tuning,1500 for cam install properly,and the famous odds and ends that always add up to alot).This is the reason why I am still at the level of maximum bolt ons with the VX(152rwkw and 470rwnm at 9psi)untuned,then again I have 300rwkw in the BA so meh.

Did I read correct,you have a custom made camshaft,for what application actually as you still are deciding on alot of things.Having chosen a camshaft and if your hell bent on using it you just simply build to suit its requirements across the board(rpm,psi ect)

Be gentle to the T5 as it wont take the torque of the L67 lol,trust me.Just dont slam 2nd and 3rd but that wont gurantee much.

[T3T4VT]

Yeah ill be putting a R32 gearbox and a button clutch heavy duty once this gearbox goes. the cam will be installed by my mate for free :P, the 2 1/2 is just to keep me going as its coming off my old car, the car is already tuned to 10psi, under boost it sounds like air is leaking from the cat joins. so hopefully that will go with the 2 1/2. They tuned this one once the blower went on so im sure they can after the cam. Will defiently going with air2air cooler. My mate explained the cam to me like this, The one i have in my other VS is for a N/A motor, making the valves open up for longer intervals creating a vacuum to get more air in, the one that will be going in this car will open up the valves for shorter intervals, works better for forced air. Not to sure if i will get rid of the MAF, its alot more work to go MAFless so im still undecided on that, what would you recommend? Sorry bout the long ass paragraph, gettin tired :P

Hes worked on cars basically all his life, i ask him what should i do and he tells me. Considering the cars ive seen him build i trust him :P
Hes running a VR ute with a VL motor, garret 35/40, 12pound, RAJAB spec cam, engine rebuild, after market intake manifold etc. over 300rwkw for a backyard job. Pics attached.

[Unlesh]

i put a mod chip in my vs gave it 50hp mod chips about about 20buks

[T3T4VT]

is that that thing you buy off ebay?

[Decicrate]

i put a mod chip in my vs gave it 50hp mod chips about about 20buks

Ah the joys of school holidays. To the OP, if you believe that you will get 50HP for $20.00 from a ebay chip, you will also believe that the world is flat.

[T3T4VT]

Well mate i dont believe it. I only asked if it was the one from ebay because i know they are full of shit, It was just a piece of paper with instructions to remove something. Didnt learn this from personal experience either haha.

[monkeys437]

Not much belt wrap on the blower puller there. You must be getting some killer belt slip on that

Edit: just realised its an old thread. Oh well