Mixed info on Ecotec to L67 computers. ?? need clearing up..

[voodoo VT]

Mixed info on Ecotec to L67 computers.

I have just fitted an L67 into my VT. Engine Gear-box, Wiring-loom all from a wrecking super-6 VT. Witch I stripped myself and fitted (car was running before I started)

I have both computers, and have been told a few things.

1, Once the computer is disconnected it will need to be re programmed.

2, The standard computer can be used with the super-6 chip to save reprogramming, ( so how on earth do you change the looms with out disconnecting the computer? Or dose this only work with running the standard loom onto the L67?

3, The standard computer will have a memory that will register once reconnected with the super-6 loom and chip.

Everything is fully fitted besides the radiator witch will be fitted in the morning.

The car has power with the ignition on the fuel pump will prime-up but when turned to the starter there is no life. I would have thought the fuel pump would have to run off the computer with the engine not on its own power?

Dose this mean the car need programming? I am trying to start with the standard computer and chip at this stage just to see if she will work.

[delcowizzid]

seems most of the VT 3.8 models both SC or non SC used the same 16233396 ecu so the ecu shouldnt be a problem.you will need the SC memcal in the ecu and wiring as it will have extra wiring for the boost control solinoid etc.

[voodoo VT]

seems most of the VT 3.8 models both SC or non SC used the same 16233396 ecu so the ecu shouldnt be a problem.you will need the SC memcal in the ecu and wiring as it will have extra wiring for the boost control solinoid etc.

mate i have run the super-6 loom and everything is wired up. i was just trying to get it started with the standed computer and chip just so i know where im at then i can swap the chip

but there is no life at this stage??

[delcowizzid]

put the SC chip in now is your best bet so it doesnt blow up when it starts.did you go from auto to manual or anything maybe its just the inhibitor switch on the gear lever so it doesnt start in gear thats stopping it turning over

[delcowizzid]

you could connect direct to the starter motor spade terminal and touch it to the battery + to wind it over to see if it runs then work on why it dooesnt wind over on the key.but ide be putting the right chip in straight away.

[voodoo VT]

right o guys everything is fitted,

i have tried starting with the standed computer and super-6 chip. no life!!

could i be looking at something else thats stopping the engine from starting??

talking to any of the performance tecks on the gold coast all i am being told is to truck it to there workshop and they'll program it there.

the car is't really in a good place to be transported (plus its pissing down rain for maybe the next week) and i can't find a mobile service.

[kart_racer]

Are you using your own original pcm (computer)? If you use one not coded to your BCM, your car will refuse to turn over. Best bet is to use the L67 Memcal in your original PCM if you aren't already.

In what way is it not starting, not turning over, not kicking?

[voodoo VT]

Are you using your own original pcm (computer)? If you use one not coded to your BCM, your car will refuse to turn over. Best bet is to use the L67 Memcal in your original PCM if you aren't already.

In what way is it not starting, not turning over, not kicking?

mate i have the original comptuer with the L67 chip. the most that is happening is the fuel pump is priming. nothing happens from there dos't kick over or anything.

[fitz_vt]

is it auto or manual?

[voodoo VT]

is it auto or manual?

auto man i used box with the L67.

[fitz_vt]

try putting your car in neutral, and try starting it there if so then then your vehicles gear selector linkage is out, if not then its a faulty inhibitor switch or its incorrectly adjusted, or its a faulty starter motor.

Basically its one of three things
Incorrectly adjusted Selector linkage,
Faulty Inhibitor Switch,
Faulty Start motor.

[voodoo VT]

Hi guys just thought I’d share my information on my own problem,

First a big thanks to everyone for there suggestions and, Leith @ Mad Race Engines, Southport Gold Coast..

I found out the started should be running no matter what the computer is doing, register to the car or not. Apparently the started will even run with no computer in it!

So I played around with the fuse and relays trying to get the started to pick in, no luck.
So I took the started motor shroud plate off and shorted it out. (Screw driver from positive to negative. Direct on the back of started motor) took 10-15 hits but it finally spun. So then with the ignition in the on position I ran a short peace of wire from the start relay. (located in fuse box in engine bay, top left corner) to the positive terminal on battery) starter engaged engine turned over and kept running first hit !! Bamm it was like a dream !!

The standard computer with the super-6 chip both were still plugged in from yesterdays efforts.

So after the excitement of finally hearing the engine running, I couldn’t quite get past the almighty rattles and sounds of something being right up the shit.
Some of you may know I lost a nut in this engine while getting it ready to fit. The nut was found and extracted but here’s me with past motor experience as fair as getting the injector rail off, trying to fit a complete engine and gearbox..

Well I thought I had F-ed something up real bad, once I had a good listen to the sound I thought it was the plate between the engine and gear box rubbing on the fly wheel. So I pulled it out and bamm the sound was gone, only to head another not quite so bad sound coming from the front of the engine. Well after another chat to Leith and telling him about the hole nut thing he suggested dropping both belts off and running the engine to determine if the sound was coming from the front pulleys, charger of internal.

Well both belts off, no sound! Charger belt on, no sound! Charger belt off, main drive belt on, real bad sound!! So thinking it’s the water pump I pulled that off and swapped off the old engine, (witch looked and felt to be in better nick anyway) no difference. So then pulled the power steering pump off and swapped that. Well an absolute mission but you wouldn’t read about it absolutely no bad sounds.

So besides the starter thing needing to be sorted out the car seems to be running well at this stage, now if the rain will piss off for half a moment I’ll top the power steering up in the morning and back it out off the shed. We can only hope for the best.

[fitz_vt]

Hi guys just thought I’d share my information on my own problem,

First a big thanks to everyone for there suggestions and, Leith @ Mad Race Engines, Southport Gold Coast..

I found out the started should be running no matter what the computer is doing, register to the car or not. Apparently the started will even run with no computer in it!

So I played around with the fuse and relays trying to get the started to pick in, no luck.
So I took the started motor shroud plate off and shorted it out. (Screw driver from positive to negative. Direct on the back of started motor) took 10-15 hits but it finally spun. So then with the ignition in the on position I ran a short peace of wire from the start relay. (located in fuse box in engine bay, top left corner) to the positive terminal on battery) starter engaged engine turned over and kept running first hit !! Bamm it was like a dream !!

The standard computer with the super-6 chip both were still plugged in from yesterdays efforts.

So after the excitement of finally hearing the engine running, I couldn’t quite get past the almighty rattles and sounds of something being right up the shit.
Some of you may know I lost a nut in this engine while getting it ready to fit. The nut was found and extracted but here’s me with past motor experience as fair as getting the injector rail off, trying to fit a complete engine and gearbox..

Well I thought I had F-ed something up real bad, once I had a good listen to the sound I thought it was the plate between the engine and gear box rubbing on the fly wheel. So I pulled it out and bamm the sound was gone, only to head another not quite so bad sound coming from the front of the engine. Well after another chat to Leith and telling him about the hole nut thing he suggested dropping both belts off and running the engine to determine if the sound was coming from the front pulleys, charger of internal.

Well both belts off, no sound! Charger belt on, no sound! Charger belt off, main drive belt on, real bad sound!! So thinking it’s the water pump I pulled that off and swapped off the old engine, (witch looked and felt to be in better nick anyway) no difference. So then pulled the power steering pump off and swapped that. Well an absolute mission but you wouldn’t read about it absolutely no bad sounds.

So besides the starter thing needing to be sorted out the car seems to be running well at this stage, now if the rain will piss off for half a moment I’ll top the power steering up in the morning and back it out off the shed. We can only hope for the best.

Awesome.... faulty start motor..... i havent really had experience with one of these but they are a bitch to get to on a 4cylinder corolla LOL.

[delcowizzid]

haha didnt i say way back in post 5 to just wind it over using the terminal at the starter LOL.good to see she runs mate now just to track down why it wont wind over.

[voodoo VT]

yeh we still got some drama's. the wire from relay is my starter at the moment.

engine should and feels real good, wheel spins at 80km/h half excelaration. wow

but something is clunking real bad when changing from park drive, and start of excelaration. i reckon its the box from when the car had the prang, the mount on rear of gox was't in one peace and both engine mounts were bent. i have used my mounts off old motor. but i am still trying to work out what is a miss if anyone has any ideas??

[HARVZ-6]

what ya mean miss??

saying a miss about a engine to me means its misfiring on one or more cylinders if thats what you mean?

[delcowizzid]

did it get hit up the rear or in the front rear enders can shove all the impact up the driveshaft into the box same with front enders too.ive seen diffs bent like bannanas from frontal impact.could be slack in the universal joints and diff allso.

[voodoo VT]

what ya mean miss??

saying a miss about a engine to me means its misfiring on one or more cylinders if thats what you mean?

as in what the problem is man? nar they all firing at this stage.

[voodoo VT]

did it get hit up the rear or in the front rear enders can shove all the impact up the driveshaft into the box same with front enders too.ive seen diffs bent like bannanas from frontal impact.could be slack in the universal joints and diff allso.

It was the drivers side down a guard rail on the HWY. buggered the front drivers wheel and hold side panel damage not too deep as engine wasn’t squashed in. the engine mounts were bent to the front so I imagine the engine was pushed forward with a fair amount of force.

I have my diff in the car but I have used the engine box and tale shaft from the wreck, it would be nice if it was the tale shaft but somehow I don’t think so. It feels tight and tighter then my old shaft into gearbox, witch is why I chose to use both. The super-6 box also feels tighter changing gears with selector. But the cluck is there when changed from revise to drive with foot on the brake. So if the tale shaft were to have some sort of bend in it I would think it wouldn’t show unless car was in motion.

There was a 5mm packing plate under gearbox rear mount on ecotec but not on super-6 box, I fitted this but took it out today thinking that may have had the box slightly out of alignment. I had to leaver the box over to the drivers side to bolt it back in at the rear gearbox mount plate I thought that was odd it was 5-10mm out, but was right when I first bolted it up with the packer in there.

[fitz_vt]

It was the drivers side down a guard rail on the HWY. buggered the front drivers wheel and hold side panel damage not too deep as engine wasn’t squashed in. the engine mounts were bent to the front so I imagine the engine was pushed forward with a fair amount of force.

I have my diff in the car but I have used the engine box and tale shaft from the wreck, it would be nice if it was the tale shaft but somehow I don’t think so. It feels tight and tighter then my old shaft into gearbox, witch is why I chose to use both. The super-6 box also feels tighter changing gears with selector. But the cluck is there when changed from revise to drive with foot on the brake. So if the tale shaft were to have some sort of bend in it I would think it wouldn’t show unless car was in motion.

There was a 5mm packing plate under gearbox rear mount on ecotec but not on super-6 box, I fitted this but took it out today thinking that may have had the box slightly out of alignment. I had to leaver the box over to the drivers side to bolt it back in at the rear gearbox mount plate I thought that was odd it was 5-10mm out, but was right when I first bolted it up with the packer in there.

if the transmission mounts at bent then it probably would of been a high impact, i would check the gear selector linkage as that can make the gearbox clunk if incorrectly adjusted. if not check the universal joints.