I own a 97 Vt wagon.Last week i noticed rear passenger side tyre was bald down to wire on the inside only. This was in only one area,the rest of the inside was worn but not as much.I know Vt's have this problem,but had camber and toe-in checked and all was in normal limits.Any ideas what this could be? only rotated tyres 7000kms ago and all was good!
vt are renoun for bad rear tyre wear.. to completly solve this issue you will need to have a camber kit installed.
1999 LS1 VT SS
1991 VN V6 T5 Commodore
All VT-VX 1 should have been sold with a free camber kit in the glove box.
How hard is it to ad the control arm to the IRS on a pre VX series 2 cars ?. HSV use a dual apparently ?.
As we speak i went out a got a VY IRS end and i am putting it in right now i,I to have a VT series 2 had same problem went and got a camber kit put in and yes it helps it only slows the wearing down but still it happens .If yours is a series 1 you cant put the control arms on as they are missing the braket for it ,i too was going to do that ,So i am now putting a complete rear end in from a VY wil let you know how it goes![]()
It is best to do what Glowworm is doing . To add the control arms to pre Vx series 2 would be a big job . You would have to drill holes in the rear suspension arms, plus the holes are tapered and you would have to weld brackets to the rear crossmember which might require an engineers certificate. Also the bushes have been relocated in the series 2 and onward so that the tyres sit up straighter and are of a different compound .
there are three types of people in the world , those who can count and those who can't
So are we talking cradle guys ?. Get the cradle from a vxii and fit that to the S2 vt ?. My car seems to have a replacement cradle, it has a marking on it which seems to be from a wreckers.
OK for all you guys that know i was putting a VY IRS into my VT series2 ,
Finnished it today was not that difficult .Everthing bolted up perfect ,but did have to get a VY tail sharft as the VT one is different ,also my exhaust will need replacing as it now hits one of the brakets ,just a little has about 2 min clearance, with car running it just hits it ,other than that everything is good .
I did this by my self so if anyone want to do it you can give yourself 2 days just taking your time ,and some good jacks to help lift it into the right spot,,hope this helps you make up your mind if you want to do it ...
there are three types of people in the world , those who can count and those who can't
So all in all do you think it's better and cheaper then a Camber/toe kit ?. I have never driven a control arm suspension holden so i wouldn't know the difference in drive ability, if any ?.
Also are you lowered ?.
So just grab the whole thing with tail-shaft as glowworm had done.
Be a good idea doing this if you plan on changing diffs ?.
Does anyone know if this is true. they have said hsv use dual control links ?, holden use 1 each side only. But hsv had been using the arms before holden did ?.
Ok guess that means i just have to find one. I dont have the time, tools and space to do it, how long did it take you to do incase i take it to a mechanic for the changeover?
i saw this post an can't help but say something...the ideas are good and having read them thoroughly i think they would improve the problem a s@#! load but the probs lie with the entire chasis. I work at beaurepaires and as a wheel aligner i see every vt that goes on the aligner running 2 1/2 neg camber on the left and 2 neg camber on the right and this is at factory ride height...see the chasis's were made weak either throughcost cutting or design floor but the entire car sags in the centerover time and now your left with this problem...for the price to buy and fitboth inner an outer eccentric bushes on the left and right control arms compared to the gain is a waist of money...i'd be leaning toward the whole new ass end idea but i don't know the costs nor the gains once completed but would be interested to hear the wheel alignment readings after conversion.
basically i hope you love that car enough to spend $$$ to get the knew rear end or enough to buy it new tyres on a regular basis...
***keen to hear readings on alignment after change...
VRCITY
Ok i took 4-5 hours to put it in when the other one was out i think the mechanic wouldnt take as long because i had to lay under the car ,dont forget the tail shaft no changes to it it will slip straight in,if you do do it it is just a matter of undoing everything thats what took time putting it in didnt take long and jus
t remember to get brake fluid so you can bleed the brakes when you are done i blocked the lines off so i didnt loose to much fluid ,,hope that helps i paid $400.00 for my rear end but did get other quotes for around $500.00 up to $1100.00 so shop around ,,good luck
umm...and end result on the wheel alignment??
VRCITY
Can anyone list absolutely everything i would need to get from a VY, i think theres a VY single pegger at the local wreckers that i could get everything needed for cheap from, but i need to know what id need.
Do what i did get the complete irs and tailshaft if you get it complete you know they havnt taken anything off so it wount be missing ,less bolts to nudo if you get it complete ,up to you if you want the 2 disc you dont really need them or the brakes themselfs as you can use your own.
im currently shopping around (sydney) to find someone who will fit the 4point adj. bushes. i dont have the time to do it. (i have a post in this section) anyhow i fitted new king springs (30mm lowered) and struts allround with adj. radius rod bushes (front and rear) and my alignement is all over the place (VT wagon)
Those saying camber kits have done nothing, have you done a 4-point (toe & camber) or a 2-point (just camber)?
The VT suffers from bad rear camber as well as very bad rear toe (unadjustable from factory on pre-VX2). It is the opinion of many that extreme rear toe out is the cause of rear tyre wear problems, more than the camber which is usually blamed.
What happens is when you lower the rear, the camber does indeed go more negative, but at the same time it toes out. When you drive forwards, its is the toe out that drags the front of the tyre out making it appear to have more negative camber than it actually does. If you were to reverse, the tyres would look almost normal. A four point kit does work, they just need someone who knows what they are doing to align it properly.
Also if you look under the rear end of the VT at the suspension arms you will notice that the outside mounting point is further forward that the inner one and are bolted in on an angle .So the lower you go the more toe out and camber you get . Hard acceleration also makes the toe out worse, The extra link on the VX series 2 helped to counteract.
I got a 4 point kit a few years ago and has made a big improvement. One thing i did notice with the camber kit was that it raised the arse end a fraction.
there are three types of people in the world , those who can count and those who can't
thats something i have found with the VY rear end when you take off quick from a set of lighs or hard acceleration the rear end will not dip down,with the vt one you accelerate or take of from light quick the rear end will dip down it is hard to get use to because it was like that for so long,,