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Thread: Lazy VT that has done nothing for 3 years

  1. #1

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    Default Lazy VT that has done nothing for 3 years

    hey guys, i have a VT commodore that has been sitting in a paddock for around 3 years now which has not been driven or started in that time (it was stacked and twisted the whole front end).

    long story short i have a new Motor, K-Frame, control arms and everything else i need to get it going again over the weekend. Her is my question, what will i need to look out for that might need to be replaced? obviously the Battery will be dead and all the Tranny, break, and diff fluids/oils changed, but is there anything else i will need to look out for? I have been told the breaks may need to be checked as they could of seized.

    Any other suggestions?

  2. #2
    Pete SS's Avatar
    Pete SS is offline Resident Pomme
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    The brakes will need overhauling, wheel bearings could be seized. Steering rack boots could be perished as well as CV boots. Anything that moves or is rubber will need checking - a massive check list!

    Surely it's easier to go out and buy one with rego already on it and use the knackered one for spares?

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete SS View Post
    The brakes will need overhauling, wheel bearings could be seized. Steering rack boots could be perished as well as CV boots. Anything that moves or is rubber will need checking - a massive check list!

    Surely it's easier to go out and buy one with rego already on it and use the knackered one for spares?
    I pretty much have everything i need ready to go for this one, plus i have a mate doing it all for me, and another who is a mechanic who can check it all over and road worthy it.

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    you might have sum moisture in the tank and the fuel would be no good drain the tank and flush

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    azkwazere is offline Ahhh Yes, Ahhh Yes....
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    id be more concerned about perished seals... thats a long time to sit there, dry out and crack.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyn12 View Post
    you might have sum moisture in the tank and the fuel would be no good drain the tank and flush
    I plan on flushing the tank and lines

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    Quote Originally Posted by azkwazere View Post
    id be more concerned about perished seals... thats a long time to sit there, dry out and crack.

    aZk.
    this was my biggest concern as well. What seals do you think will be gone?

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    I duno my VN sat in the front yard for over 2 years once unstarted, I just started it up and got it back on the road again. Started first millsecond same as allways, everything still worked etc

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    Quote Originally Posted by greenfoam View Post
    I duno my VN sat in the front yard for over 2 years once unstarted, I just started it up and got it back on the road again. Started first millsecond same as allways, everything still worked etc
    We started this after about 1.5 years and let it run for about 20 seconds, so who knows?

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyn12 View Post
    you wouldnt know what seals are gone until you get it up and running
    Will find out Monday or Tuesday i guess. I will report back how i go anyway for those of you curious. Anything else you guys can think of would be much appreciated though.

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    pablo is offline Donating member
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    I am puzzled why people think seals should perish if they are not in use. Surely time and wear from being IN USE is the factor, not the fact they have been idle.
    Why would wheel bearings be seized?, they are in a sealed environment and in grease, unless the seals were damaged beforehand letting in moisture, in which case, they probably would be nackered by now if in continuous use.
    Water in the fuel tank? unless it has been open to the rain, why should there be water in there that wasn't in before, It's a sealed system, by law, and only vents through a charcoal cannister under the bonnet.
    Just my thoughts, am I missing something here?

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    Quote Originally Posted by pablo View Post
    I am puzzled why people think seals should perish if they are not in use. Surely time and wear from being IN USE is the factor, not the fact they have been idle.
    Why would wheel bearings be seized?, they are in a sealed environment and in grease, unless the seals were damaged beforehand letting in moisture, in which case, they probably would be nackered by now if in continuous use.
    Water in the fuel tank? unless it has been open to the rain, why should there be water in there that wasn't in before, It's a sealed system, by law, and only vents through a charcoal cannister under the bonnet.
    Just my thoughts, am I missing something here?
    B elive me Pablo, i hope your right.

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    strip it all down and see what needs to be replaced when you get there,

    good luck, thats a huge job




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    check the steering rack boot to make sure that there isnt any oil in the boot (rubber seal for it to stop dust etc getting into the rack) if there is you gotta get a reconditioned one to replace that.(or as the mechanic said to me, pull the boot down clean it, degrease it, wipe the rack down, degrease that and put the boot back over it and then secure with zip ties that is fine..),

    check the inner guard of the tires ( above the tire in the wheel well, there will be a plastic guard, make sure that is secure before you get the r/w done, mine was loose and now i have no r/w :/) however very easy to fix.. zip ties are allowed when securing it.

    i know it's weird but check the glovebox anyway, make sure that when you open it it doesnt fall out... mines broken (and for probably the lamest excuse in history it is a r/w item and holding up my rw also)

    check the exhaust for rust etc too, a hole in it or excessive rust makes it un r/w.

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    Quote Originally Posted by damo1989 View Post
    check the steering rack boot to make sure that there isnt any oil in the boot (rubber seal for it to stop dust etc getting into the rack) if there is you gotta get a reconditioned one to replace that.(or as the mechanic said to me, pull the boot down clean it, degrease it, wipe the rack down, degrease that and put the boot back over it and then secure with zip ties that is fine..),

    check the inner guard of the tires ( above the tire in the wheel well, there will be a plastic guard, make sure that is secure before you get the r/w done, mine was loose and now i have no r/w :/) however very easy to fix.. zip ties are allowed when securing it.

    i know it's weird but check the glovebox anyway, make sure that when you open it it doesnt fall out... mines broken (and for probably the lamest excuse in history it is a r/w item and holding up my rw also)

    check the exhaust for rust etc too, a hole in it or excessive rust makes it un r/w.
    Thanks for your reply, i was actually wondering about the exhaust, i thought it may be rusted through. Will find out when its over the pit on Monday i suppose.

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    also about the exhaust if you need to replace it - when you do. make sure the bloke strengthens it at the end so when you push it, the pipe doesnt hit the body work... also an issue on mine

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    The progress pics i promised!

    We fired her up first go which is good. Got another 2-3 hours work to go.

    Flickr: johnnyb86's Photostream

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    how'd you go with the exhaust? check it out for rust?

    and the pics looking good so far mate!

    congrats!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Noodl3s View Post
    how'd you go with the exhaust? check it out for rust?

    and the pics looking good so far mate!

    congrats!
    Yeah mate the exhust looks fine! The Tip could probably be replaced though because there was a small crack in it which has rusted out pretty bad now.

    Now we ust gotta connect the tail shaft and exhuast back up, bleed the brakes and make sure they are ok, replace the control arms and Z bars, and get the paint organised.

    We will pretty much have it all done beside paint tomorrow. Probably another 2 hours work.

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    Everything is just about done now, just got to get the brakes machined this week (covered in rust) and then put them back on and bleed them again. Also need to replace a Z bar and Control arm which should all be done by Saturday. hopefully i can book the paint in this week as well.

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    Turns out it did need a new exhaust so its at the shop now, so i should have it back by lunch time. Now i just need to replace the LH ball joint, LH lower control arm, and the LH castor arm which should be done tomorrow with any luck. The only other things i have to worry about is i might need to replace the front shocks, and the trans output shaft seal is leaking. I should have it in road worthy shape by the weekend.

    Tossing up what to do in regards with paint, im thinking i might go a full matte black Vinyl wrap. There are also some updated pics of the old cracked sump and the clean engine bay.

    Flickr: johnnyb86's Photostream

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    The Finished Product:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/40589322@N05/

    Ended up getting the back garnish painted and getting some new lights. Also got the skirts and windows colour coded as well as getting the badge and spoiler removed.
    Last edited by jbourke; 29-09-2009 at 12:59 PM.

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    skruba is offline holden, honda, pitbulls
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    good job man looks neat for just sittin in a paddock gettin wasted
    shhh now PUPPET

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