Might be a stupid question

[nick3110]

As the title says,

Car shakes violently when braking from high speeds. e.g. 110kph slowing down to 90kph.. Can especially feel it in the steering wheel.

My guess warped discs? front?

How much am i looking at, can i do it myself?

p.s. on my phone doesn't like the ffs search too well :P..

[accentstencil]

Warped discs rotors is the most likely cause. You can get your discs machined or you can buy new ones for around $50 or less if you shop around.
Easy to replace yourself, remove wheel, remove brake calliper (2 bolts), pull disc off.
They say you should replace the calliper bolts but I use Loctite and never have a problem.
If you do the rear discs, make sure you release the handbrake or they won't come off.

[GetToDaChopa]

Last time i tried to take the brake caliper off completely and the 2 bolts were very tight so i gave up. How do you guys normally loosen them up? I sprayed WD40 but it did not help.

[Zuicider]

use a breaker bar and a pole on the end. make sure your turning the right way, even engineers get that wrong

[INNAWE]

use a breaker bar and a pole on the end. make sure your turning the right way, even engineers get that wrong

^^^^ what he said. If you are trying to undo the bolt from the outside, reaching around the disk then go in the opposite as you would sitting infront of it. If that makes sense lol.

Last time i tried to take the brake caliper off completely and the 2 bolts were very tight so i gave up. How do you guys normally loosen them up? I sprayed WD40 but it did not help.

I used Loctite Freeze and Release. It is awesome stuff. It actually freezes the rust and breaks it up then lubricates the bolt and coats it for future.
You can get it from Repco or no doubt supercheap

[GetToDaChopa]

Right ok, gotta collect some motivation and try it again , thanks.

[nick3110]

ahk cheers guys, i'll get straight to it..

[Calaber]

Cherb

Are you talking about the caliper retaining bolts, or the caliper mounting bracket retaining bolts?

If it's the latter, those mothers are tight and can get a trifle rusty over time. They needs lots of grunt to shift them. It's worth cleaning the threads once you have them off. I suspect they might even have Loctite on them from new.

To the OP

Standard discs are so cheap these days that machining isn't worth the bother - you might even find that machining costs more than new discs. Holden sell two types of disc - Delco and Standard. Delco tend to be a good deal cheaper than standard discs - stuffed if I know why. I pay $45 each trade for Delco's for the front of my VY. Just make sure you check your pads too - if they are well down, it makes sense to replace them at the same time. Also, not mentioned yet, the discs can be bitches to remove. They tend to seize onto the hubs. Once you have removed the calipers and brackets, spray WD40 around the centre hub of the disc and give them a good belt with a hammer and block of hardwood on either side. They will generally free up and you can wobble them off. Make sure you clean around the perimeter of the mounting surface on the hub and smear a little wheel bearing grease on the surface before replacing the disc. Make sure the grease is a very thin smear - no blobs.

[GetToDaChopa]

Calaber.

I wasn't sure what they were called but its the second ones after you take the caliper of to change the pads (as an example) the second half of that is left over. I tried everything in my ability, can't get them off. So sounds like they are the mounting retaining bolts.

[accentstencil]

Calaber.

I wasn't sure what they were called but its the second ones after you take the caliper of to change the pads (as an example) the second half of that is left over. I tried everything in my ability, can't get them off. So sounds like they are the mounting retaining bolts.

I found that I couldn't use a socket on the rear calliper bolts due to lack of room, so I used a flat type ring spanner and tapped the other end of the spanner with a hammer. You need to hold the spanner to keep it steady while hitting it with the hammer. I do this all the time and they come undone easily.

[GetToDaChopa]

I found that I couldn't use a socket on the rear calliper bolts due to lack of room, so I used a flat type ring spanner and tapped the other end of the spanner with a hammer. You need to hold the spanner to keep it steady while hitting it with the hammer. I do this all the time and they come undone easily.

Yeah, tried that as well. Maybe i need a bigger hammer! (btw thats not me...)

[danja]

Calaber is right, they certainly come pre-Loctite'd in the VT-VZ era, and probably well before then too.

As for resuing the bolts, well I'll just leave these here...





Dunno about you, but for the sake of a couple of bucks, I know what my choice is. These are brakes we're talking about here.