Power Window Conversion Vt
Hey guys i want to convert mine, i have already upgraded from a low level bcm to a mid level bcm when i did my manual conversion, but i want to definately know that if i get the door looms, install the auto winders get the 3 switches, it should all just work?
Here is my research so far.
Thread 1
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ows-print.html
HDT_aero 21-02-2006 01:50 PM
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How to install Power Windows
4 Attachment(s)
Ok Guys as promised heres my guide to installing power windows in an exec commodore.
Tools Required
Flathead screwdriver
Phillipshead screwdriver
Drill
drill bits
18 M8 bolts
18 M8 nuts
18 spring washers
a handfull of cable ties
a soldering iron
solder
ratchet
10mm socket
14mm socket
14mm spanner
and a hacksaw blade.
Calais parts required
4 window regulators
two rear switches
two front switch blocks
each doors wiring loom
main window harness
power window relay module
and the calais door trims (unless you want to look dodgey)
Remove the door trims from both the donor and destination doors... im not gonna explain this as its pretty straight forward and has been documented on this forum before. (thats what you need the screwdrivers for)
if you have the entire calais doors then start by using a 12v power source (eg car battery) to wind the four windows down slightly.. this is done by using a wire from the positive and a wire from the negative to the two terminals on the window regulators... dont worry about wich way you do it as reversing the polarity will reverse the direction the window winds... you want the windows about 1/4 way down to make your life easy.
Now the backs come out easy you just drill the 6 pop rivets out with a suitable sized drill bit and slide the entire mechanism off the window towards the rear of the door and simply remove the regultor from the door the glass will hold its position but lower it once they are out just incase.
The fronts require you to remove the glass before the regulator will come out.. you do this by undoing the two 10mm bolts on the slide rail then tilt the glass toward the front of the door and go down until your able to get the rear slider out of glass runner. Now you have the movement to slide the glass to the rear off the front runner. Its now easiest to remove the top inside trim to pull the window completly out of the door.
With the front glass out you can now drill out the front four pop rivets and remove the regulators.
Follow the same process for the doors you wish to install the electric regulators in to get the manual mechanisms out.
Now to prep the regulators take an 8.3mm drill bit and drill the holes that the pop rivets were in out so our bolts will fit through. Clean all the filings off of the regulators we dont want our new regulators chewing metal shards now.
So now we do the same to the destination doors drill out the appropriate holes making sure any glass (the rear windows) are up and out of the way whilst you do this as the drill tends to get sucked through with great force when it breaks through the other side.
You can now install the new regulators in the doors using the bolts you purchased before startingSince the rear glass in in the door its alot easier to just slide the rear regulators onto the window before bolting it in... if you dont do this now then the rear quater must be removed to get the glass on the reg again or you will have to unbolt it and do it again. Get you five bolts in the rear regs... i know there were 6 to start but you may have noticed that the bolts are to long to fit in one of the holes... i personally havnt worried too much about this my regs are working with no dramas without them but if you really like go and find a smaller bolt to fit that space.
And your rears are in
now the glass goes in after the regs in this case so put the regs in and do the four bolts up, dont install the slider with the 10mm bolts at this point.
get your glass and put it in the way it came out...
front on first from the rear with a tilt then get the rear slider on going toward the front and coming back. (read how you got them out again if your struggling) once the rear slider is on the rail you must now get the glass into the guides you do this by coming back as far as possible on an angle (keeping the sliders in) and getting the front into the front guide now the back is easier start straightening the window making sure that the back slides into the rear guide whilst the front stays in also... if you have done it right the window will end up looking normal. Now hold the glass with one hand and put the 6" slider on and bolt it up tight.
You now have all the regulators in... but dont put the trims back on yet.
Its wiring time
ok get your rear doors wiring and feed the apropriate side through the door after remvoing the grommit you will find by opening the front and looking at the front bottom corner of the rear door.once the are fed into the door you have the fun parttake off the centre pillar plastic trim and the rear outer centre pillar grommit and from the outside push the two connectors as high as you can with your fingers... they should hold there as by now youve noticed there is little space. get on the inside and use a flat head to lever the plugs up so you can pull them through and feed the remaining wiring under the trim to the front kickpannel on the appropriate side. repeate for the other rear door.
The front doors are the same thing you feed the wiring into the door first then feed the other side into the cabin. The fronts are almost at the top of each door and it makes life easier to take the vent cover off the vent to pull the wiring into the cabin.
Now you feed the rest of the wiring to its appropriate place with the main switch wiring being fed to the centre console part (the console out makes this part easier) and i fed the rest of the wiring in front of the heater and behind the dash. run the passenger side plugs over to their door connectors and plug em up (the computer will need to be removed for this) Now cable tie all the wiring out of the way. Screw the power window module under the steering coloum and run the remaining wiring to the drivers side door looms.
Now you may be thinking hang on where does this last connector go... it doesn't so you have to ground the thick black wire and run the two orange and one pink wire to a fuse and run the fuse to constant power... you may be thinking shouldnt pink goto ignition and you would be right but i dont want to have to put my keys into the ignition to wind my windows up and down so i wired ignition to power.
Your almost done
now draw out your holes for the console switches drill two appropriate size hole at each end and cut the remainder out with a hacksaw blade. if they dont fit just file it away untill they do. plug the switches and windows up, replace any remaining trims and the console (if you havnt) and your done...
so am i ive had enough of typing now ill post the all important pictures up tonight when i get home to my camera.
HDT_aero 23-02-2006 11:02 AM
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pics are up now ill get some more of wiring locations and finished doors tonight
Blown V6 Hatch 24-02-2006 09:00 AM
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Great write up mate! Should be made sticky!
defa 24-02-2006 09:18 AM
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for anyone who wants power windows, now you know how to do it.. so look out for all the stuff for the conversion on ebay.. a mate of mine will be selling all the stuff soon... i want to do it to my car but i am too broke at the moment..
VN-88 24-02-2006 09:28 AM
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yeah thats is a good thread, if i ever get all the parts i may just do it, i hope it gets made sticky so i dont loose it
brentons_house 24-02-2006 10:33 AM
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I'm going to wreckers today to see if there are cars out there so I can make the conversion what price should I be looking at?
defa 24-02-2006 03:13 PM
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i was going to buy all the stuff fromt eh wreckers and i think it was going to be about 350.. in all honesty if you live in a big city goto the auctions and buy a crashed calais or statesman.. then you can sell all the stuff you don't want and it won't cost you a cent in the end..
brentons_house 24-02-2006 03:15 PM
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I just had a look on ebay and found a set of for and a set of two and the recon it's universal. There cheaper then what I was expecting to pay for second hand stuff.
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does anyone know if there any good?
HDT_aero 24-02-2006 06:56 PM
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More pics
4 Attachment(s)
the first is rear door wiring
the second is front door wiring
the third is the plug that i had to wire power and ground to
the forth is a finished door
i hunted around for a while and got a whole calais wiring loom regulators and switches for $300
hako 24-02-2006 09:52 PM
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Top post Adam, my only question is that if I use my standard Exec door trims just how bodgy will it look? - Door trims up here are $50+ each and even then they are not 100% and usually rain damaged so I stand to save $200 by keeping my original trims.
defa 24-02-2006 09:58 PM
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you can always buy some off ebay.. would be for less than 100.. sometimes only 50
HDT_aero 24-02-2006 10:11 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by hako
Top post Adam, my only question is that if I use my standard Exec door trims just how bodgy will it look? - Door trims up here are $50+ each and even then they are not 100% and usually rain damaged so I stand to save $200 by keeping my original trims.
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im sure if you looked around you could find some cheap grey plugs to cover the holes wich wouldnt be too bad and in the back you could possibly cover the holes with the rear switches with a little cutting
or if you liked you could cover them with tweeters
HDT_aero 24-02-2006 10:24 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by brentons_house
I just had a look on ebay and found a set of for and a set of two and the recon it's universal. There cheaper then what I was expecting to pay for second hand stuff.
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does anyone know if there any good?
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the thing with these ones is they use the regulators in the doors already..
so you still have a lump with a plug coming out the door
but ye if you dont mind that they will do the job
hako 24-02-2006 10:53 PM
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Adam - like I said - top post and thanks for the advice. Friends?
brentons_house 25-02-2006 03:44 AM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by HDT_aero
so you still have a lump with a plug coming out the door
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not exactly sure what you mean but are you saying as in the normal winding handles will bassically remain on it?
projectaero 25-02-2006 10:08 AM
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sweet thanks this will def come in handy
coolngroovy 25-02-2006 03:09 PM
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Please make this a sticky!
HDT_aero 25-02-2006 06:10 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by brentons_house
not exactly sure what you mean but are you saying as in the normal winding handles will bassically remain on it?
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you take the handles off but you have a cover that goes over the winder cog so there will be a plug the covers it that sticks out like a winder
HDT_aero 25-02-2006 06:12 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by hako
Adam - like I said - top post and thanks for the advice. Friends?
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no worries didnt mean to offend you b4
hako 26-02-2006 10:43 AM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by HDT_aero
no worries didnt mean to offend you b4
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No problems - sold the horse and now on a bike. One thing you possibly forgot in the post on power windows is 4 X Bandaids in the 'tools required'. Every time I take a door trim off to fix a regulator or lock I'll cut myself on those sharp edges and donate blood to the car.
HDT_aero 26-02-2006 05:05 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by hako
No problems - sold the horse and now on a bike. One thing you possibly forgot in the post on power windows is 4 X Bandaids in the 'tools required'. Every time I take a door trim off to fix a regulator or lock I'll cut myself on those sharp edges and donate blood to the car.
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lol ive done that a few times but more so on those sharp body rails the seals go on.... they are a bit dangerous
HDT_aero 27-02-2006 05:00 PM
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since installing the windows the other week ive had two problems
one was the passenger window not going up but going down... i started checking with my good friend mr multimeter and couldnt find and issue with the switch. this stumped me for a while as i had condinuity to the window and power was switching to it. i ended up discovering that even thow the switch was working it wasnt putting out enough power.. i worked this out by simply using a wire to bridge the power to the suspect terminal and pushing it at the same time to remove the earth (the earth is connected to the switch when in the off position)
I fixed this problem by pulling the switch apart and sanding the suspect terminals. This required the buttons to be removed (both) and then the leds had to be soldered out in order to get the two halves of the cover apart. once they are off you can see the contacts and the bad ones were badly tarnished. I recommend you test the switch apart so if you didnt quite clean them proberly you dont have to pull the switch apart again.
the second issue i had was my drivers window suddenly stoped going down... i repaired this by removing the power window module all together as it had some dry solder joins and i couldnt seem to repair it by simply re soldering them. so i bridged the direct power to the window loom's apropriate power line. this cause all windows except the drivers side to work..
to get the drivers side to work i had to trace the switch outputs and then bridge them to the apropraite regulator terminal (eg up to up)
now the windows all work with no power window module so i have lost my auto down but im not to worried about that
just thaught id let you guys know incase anyone else has issues
Anton 26-04-2006 02:13 PM
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may seem a silly question to some of you but all the work seems to be in the door. couldnt you more easily get the doors from a calais or any model with power windows already installed and simply attach the doors and wire it up to a battery or your car battery?
bush_basha 26-04-2006 05:08 PM
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i have installed power windows into my exec a few months ago, and i took my dash out what a C^nt of a job that was, and yeh all seemed ok when the passenger side wasnt align properly and popped off its rails so make sure thats all aligned otherwise off with the door cards again!!
HDT_aero 14-07-2006 06:29 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Anton
may seem a silly question to some of you but all the work seems to be in the door. couldnt you more easily get the doors from a calais or any model with power windows already installed and simply attach the doors and wire it up to a battery or your car battery?
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ye you could do that but good luck finding the same colour doors in good condition but hey it certainly would be easier that way however it would probably cost more too
Thread 2
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...bcm-print.html
Thread 3SMIT 15-08-2009 01:35 PM
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Installing Power Windows (By-passing BCM)
hey guys,
have been looking around the site for awhile but cant really find the info i need and my wiring diagrams don't tell me what wire is what, so:
I have already got the following parts:
window regs
main switch
vt Calais wiring loom ( i have cut out the window wiring out of the main harness)
I want to just start of with the drivers side door. I wll bypass the Bcm and just hard wire.
OK what wire colors do what and where do they go?
i guess i just need to know:
*power
*ground
*what wires goto the window reg
*do i need any relays anywhere?
Is that all i need.
Your help would be much appreciated
SMIT 17-08-2009 11:09 AM
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anyone?????
lion_g 17-08-2009 11:49 AM
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yeahh anyone i want to do the same thing
vn_v6 17-08-2009 11:56 AM
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is it the same wiring to do it on a vn aswell? i want power windows to lol
ruggj 18-08-2009 12:18 AM
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i can't remember the colour of the wire, but get one of those tester devices where you ground the device somewhere, and you put it up against the wires, put the car into igintion and press the switch button, keep moving the device on all the wires until you pin point which wire is the sender wire.
once you have found the wire cut it off and wire it straight to the other side of the loom (past the BCM). I did this at the point where the door loom connects to the main loom, cut the wire off the main loom and joined my new wire there. You will see the colour of the sender wire on the loom when you plug it in, just join your new wire to that wire, but on the main loom.
If you have ABS, you won't need to ground any wires as it will already be done. There should be wiring underneath your center console cover for the power window buttons, if you have that then installation will be really simple.
Another thing you might find, when i did my conversion i noticed that the front passenger door, when i pressed the buttons on the switch they were swapped, i'd press down and it would go up and vice versa, if you get this simply either cut and swap the wires, or take the wires out of the plug (you should just be able to pull them out) and swap them around.
Sorry for not being very detailed, i can't remember what that device was called to test the wire, might be just something simple like wire tester or something (using my mates tools and stuff so not sure what it was)
If theres anything else you need to know, check out the thread in the how to section on the forum, i think it's stickied.
SMIT 22-08-2009 12:21 AM
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bumpage....
lout 22-08-2009 08:34 AM
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what you are trying to do is complicated, you need a basic understanding of electricity and be able to read a wiring diagram. for someone to guide you through will be very time consuming
SMIT 22-08-2009 10:59 AM
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i have an understanding in "electricity" and have studied automotive electrical technology i can read a wiring diagram unfortunately the only ones i can find don't tell me what each wire is what or what pin they are in the iso connectors, only where they go and what color they are.
I asked for people to help me not to question whether i can do the job or not
anarklov3r 22-08-2009 11:31 AM
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1 Attachment(s)
Hope this helps mate
Fonzie 22-08-2009 12:42 PM
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I'm thinking you'll need some sort of controller, if you want the timeout and the autodown. I'm doing the same thing in my VS, and using the controller, loom and regulators out of a VN calais.
With everything connected where it should be, i have four empty pins... One for constant power, one for ground, one for ignition, and one for the drivers door. The ground and power are pretty obvious, because they're a smaller gauge. The other two are easy to test.
If you want to stick with the loom you currently possess, I hope you have a lot of patience. Using a loom that originally lead to the BCM will probably be a painful task... Because all the reg wires and switch wires would lead to the BCM, then the BCM decides what to do with them. I'm not even sure the VT switch block would have the right connections to do this, without modification. You'd need a DPST (Double pole single throw) switch that defaults to center off for every window, allowing you to reverse the current to the regulator depending on which way you flick it... And then you'd need to wire the child lock button in series with the rear switches. There's probably an illumination wire somewhere in there, but that's easy to deal with. And THEN, you'd still miss out on your autodown and ignition off timeout.... The only way i could think to deal with the timeout, is wire the switched side of two relays in parallel, one relay controlled by the ignition and the other controlled by the interior light. Ergo, the power windows will work if either: The ignition is on, or the interior light is on.
Following my screwed up train of thought here?
hitman1979 22-08-2009 08:11 PM
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1 Attachment(s)
all you need to bypass the BCM to get the drivers window to work (without the auto down feature) is where the loom runs up to the dash from the floor you have to cut the Blue/White wire from the part the runs to BCM and attach it to the Blue/White wire that goes to the door loom to make it go up, to make it go down you have to cut the Green/Black wire that runs to the BCM and attach it to the Green/Orange wire that goes the the door loom.
to get power for the windows it is up to you,
you could run the orange/yellow wire to a relay and hook a wire that runs the acc (such as lighter) to signal the relay for power but make sure you run a fuse, this will give you power for the windows only when the ignition is in acc or run, so it wont have power when the ignition is off.
for earth its the Black/Blue wire you could attach it to the negative terminal on your battery or to a exisitng earth somewhere on the car
this exactly what i have done to my VT and have never had a issue
hope you understand this
i have attached a Notepad File with the details for the wire colour
cheers
Ben
SMIT 22-08-2009 11:03 PM
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Sweet thanks for the 2 above post should help out allot and should be able to get it going, one more question i dont have door looms for the window regs will that matter or is there a specific connector that is needed to connect to the window regs
Cheers guys!
hitman1979 23-08-2009 12:00 AM
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i looked into that myself trust me its easier to just get new door looms mate
0081 23-08-2009 08:20 AM
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When i did it in my vt ss it was green/black and green/orange.
All i did was cut and solder them in the kick pannel on the drivers side as it was a bit tigh to get up at the bcm
Adriianz 24-08-2009 12:18 PM
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how'd you guys go, anyone got them hooked up? im looking at doing this to my vt exec lol
anarklov3r 24-08-2009 02:28 PM
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Guys, theres a place in coburg melbourne called
Electric life Aust
295 Sydney Rd
Coburg VIC 3058
(03) 9383 3511
They specialise inpower windows. This is thee guy that supplied me the blanking plugs for my door trims in my VN (to cover manual winder holes) The guy there can install the windows and all wiring for you for ~$200. I asked him about it a couple months back. You provide regs+ switchs, he makes his own looms and plugs and it takes about 4 hours. Well worth it i reckon. If my car didnt have power windows already, i would go to him
csimmo 31-08-2009 04:45 PM
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Hi, did all this on the weekend to my 2001 VX II exec. There is some wiring diagrams somewhere, I have them at home, so will let you know which wires need to be done.
There seems to be alot of different information around here, so will just write out my experiance.
The wiring harness goes all the way up to the doors. On the door harness plug located just inside the body, the 2 wires that stand alone on the top are up/down, with a white and black wire to the back doors for the child lock.
The three passanger doors work fine doing it this way, by just either cutting and connecting new wires to the switches/motors, but for the driver door, I found it easiest just threading a new wire direct from the power window motor straight through to the main windows control switch in the centre console. You don't get auto up/down, but it works with out issue. Also you need to remeber the fuses/ relays that go into the fuse box under the steering wheel. There where 3 things needed for mine.
I suggest getting proper looms for the back doors along with the switches, but for the front doors, you can wire them directly.
Another tip, if you don't replace the door trims, go down to clark rubber, and get 4 30mm plastic plaugs. they are 70c each and fill the holes for the handles for a pro look.
The wrecker I got them from was nice enough to throw in an SS silver dash surround and even the pop riverts! which have huge faces on them.
SMIT 31-08-2009 06:06 PM
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yeah your wiring digrams would be an added help as i havent had time do this yet
csimmo 01-09-2009 10:56 AM
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Here you go
wiring from the main switch to door Looms
Orange/Yellow - Power
Black/Blue - Earth
Blue/White - Drivers (Right) window UP - Yellow
Green/Black - Drivers (Right) window Down - Blue
Green/Yellow - Drivers (Right) Rear Window UP - Green/Yellow
Blue/Yellow - Drivers (Right) Rear Window Down - Blue/Yellow
White/Black - Rear Child window Lock - White/Black (on both rear door Looms)
Green/Red - Passenger (Left) Rear Window Up - Green/Yellow
Blue/Red - Passenger (Left) Rear Window Down - Blue/Yellow
Green - Passenger (Left) Front Window UP - Blue
Blue - Passenger (Left) Front Window Down - Yellow
Full credit for this goes to Just commodores and forum contributors. Thanks for all your help.
Wish I could find the original thread to link, but I couldn't
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...rts-print.html
Thread 4callum_88 22-03-2009 10:03 PM
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electric window conversion parts
ive got the regulators and the wiring inside the door, i know i need the front and rear switches, what else do i need
im guessing its the four looms connecting to the main switch or module/relay
am i correct? im unsure
accentstencil 22-03-2009 10:58 PM
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You will need a MID level BCM and the loom for the main switch block if it is not already in place. Being an Executive it probably won't be.
callum_88 22-03-2009 11:01 PM
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oh ive heard you dont need one
:S
Mick1988 23-03-2009 01:24 AM
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I'm 99.9% sure that in my VX the wiring is there in the center console. Unscrew the two screws either side of your 12v cigarette lighter power plug and pull the console that surrounds the gearbox up and out and look for a cable with a plug. roundabouts where the power window switches are.
I would assume all the cars would come with the wiring and BCM ready for power windows to save time on production lines. If you have the wiring, your BCM should be fine too. You will need all 4 new door trims though because you will have holes where the winders were and you'll need holes in the back trims for the switches. Any door skins will do, you can swap the fabric insert from your existing trims onto it so it matches. Just make sure the skin covering is the same shade of black/grey
accentstencil 23-03-2009 07:36 AM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by callum_88 (Post 1084698)
oh ive heard you dont need one
:S
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You might already have a MID level BCM, but most execs have a LO level which doesn't allow for power windows. This is according to my Gregory's.
topzone 24-03-2009 02:25 PM
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I recently converted my VX exe to power windows the master plug was already in the center consul it had the low level BCM this would not allow the drivers window to operate - solution there are two wires that come off the r/f rocker switch they alternate between + & - to drive the window regulator up or down.I traced them to the drivers footwell where I cut them, joined and ran new wires directly to the regulator the only thing is the r/f window wont go down automatically like a factory one you have to hold the switch till its down - no issue realy ! I wouldnt even bother buying the door looms a bit of work threading new wires and your done.
callum_88 24-03-2009 04:06 PM
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oh great cheers
so would i need some wires that connect to the plug in the centre console that go to the rear and front regulators?
where do i locate this rocker switch?
so then i just need the switches and trims and ill be good?
topzone 24-03-2009 05:15 PM
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Hey Callum if you can use a volt meter I can help you, if not its best left to a professional cheers
hitman1979 24-03-2009 08:14 PM
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simple question does your car have ABS brakes?
if yes then under the the gear lever towards the back you should have a white rectangle plug that isnt pluged into anything that is the plug for the centre console switches for power windows. if that is there the rest of the wiring will be there just plug in the door looms and regulators and switches then go to holden and get a MID level BCM installed then its all done.
now if you dont have ABS brakes thats a bit harder you would probably be better off getting a pro to install the rest of the wiring from scratch for you
for some reason ABS and power windows came together as a option from factory so if you have ABS the wiring will be there for power windows except for the doors if you dont have ABS none of the wiring will be there.
now for the BCM
even if the wiring is there for the power windows doesnt mean that you would have a MID BCM installed from factory.
the only difference between the LOW and MID BCM is Power windows and electric aerial being an exec and if you dont have a electric aerial from factory and because you dont already have power windows you would only have a LOW BCM
callum_88 24-03-2009 11:36 PM
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i can use a multimeter, i almost have cert 3 in electrotechnology
im not sure if i have abs, but i have seen a white rectangle plug not plugged into anything, but it was a bit higher than the centre console just in front of the gearstick on the left, i may look a little lower when i get a bit more time as i just had a quick look.
can i use that method that topzone was talkin about? instead of getting a new bcm?
cheers for all ur input everyone, as i have no idea with this power window stuff
callum_88 29-03-2009 11:44 AM
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ohkay well i dont have abs, so does that mean i definately dont have the wiring harness for power windows, because i saw a plug in the wiring thats not plugged into anything, if its not for the switches any other ideas what its for?
Mick1988 29-03-2009 12:03 PM
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Take a picture of it and we'll soon be able to tell you
callum_88 29-03-2009 03:43 PM
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4 Attachment(s)
okay took apart my console and there seems to be a plug with nothing going to it, around the mark of where the switches should be.. so im hoping that its for that, let me know if you saw the same thing
cheers
also that last picture is a picture of this other plug doing nothing, what would that be for?
hitman1979 29-03-2009 08:16 PM
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thats not the plug for the power windows, if it was there the wiring would come out from that hole in the carpet in the first pic. i am sorry but you dont have the wiring for power windows mate
the plug in the last pic that comes out the side of your console is for the mobile phone hands free kit.
if you want power windows mate i would honestly sugest getting a auto elec to install it for you, trust me i had the same problem you have now with my old VT and i ended up getting a whole wiring loom out of another vt with power windows and stripped out just the wiring for the windows but it was a headache to do even for me and i have had a few years expierence with wiring up other cars
callum_88 29-03-2009 09:43 PM
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Oh you definately sure about that? does the plug look obviously different to what this plug is for? If so what is this plug actually for then?
accentstencil 29-03-2009 09:49 PM
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The plug for the window switches is about 2 inches wide and has about 8 or 10 wires.
hitman1979 30-03-2009 05:38 PM
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i know this switch is out of a VY but the plug that goes into it is the same as the VT-VX
and is the same plug for the factory stereo in a VN-VP
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/652...f54e84ac7o.jpg
callum_88 03-04-2009 03:09 PM
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oh cheers for your help.
ive rang up a few auto electricians, some dont do it, some do it, the two people ive rang that do it said they were looking at about 250-300ish but he wasnt sure he could do it, and another person said that lookin for about 550ish! i really think thats ridiculous does anybody know someone that can do it or at least tell me what i should do, because i am fairyl cluey on electrical as ive got a certificate in electrotechnology, i just dont want to f*** around with wires.
SMIT 03-04-2009 04:11 PM
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ok ive never done this but i think all you will need is:
MID PCM (not BCM??? dont know.)
wiring in all doors,
main wiring loom,
regs in all doors
main switch block
rear switches
You know enough to do it yourself, just might be a bit time consuming.
hitman1979 03-04-2009 04:26 PM
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for the body wiribg you could buy a body wiring loom out of a wreck with power windows and just strip the power window wiring out, or if you can get the power window wiring out of a VQ wich has a seperate wiring loom to the main loom and modify the plugs to fit your car (i have done this before and it does work).
callum_88 06-04-2009 08:12 PM
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ah kay, cheers guys
so if i got a body loom, is it pretty hard to work out which is the power window wires?
i may have to trace them and see on the wires i have now and the wires i have and compare the wires with the new loom?
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ion-print.html
adstarr 15-01-2009 08:29 AM
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Urgent help...vt power window coversion
I am in the process of converting my VT Exec manual windows to power using the How To's guide.
I have just discovered my BCM is a low model unit and will not take power windows.As I do not want to go through the hassle of swapping the BCM, I was going to try using the wiring diamgram as in post 44, where you use a Power Window Module out of a VN/VP/VR/VS and avoid the windows being wired to the BCM.
Before I go and buy one, will this work with my VT?? Is there any other parts I will need to make it work??
VT Calais parts I already have:
*4 power window regs
*Main Console Switch
*Rear Switches
*Wiring Looms
Is there another way to wire it up without the use of a module?
Many thanks in advance!!
adstarr 15-01-2009 11:10 PM
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I was thinking about hardwiring the regulators to the switches and not even worrying about the power window module, obviously I would use a 20A inline fuse and some power window relays.
Does anyone know where the relays should go??? The holden wiring diagram shows the relays on the positive power before the switches, but a mate reckons they should go after the switches and before the regs??? Not sure...any help...anyone?????
Cheers Adam
davway 15-01-2009 11:17 PM
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im no electrical expert - far from it but i would say the fuse should be before the whole set up.
somewhere between the power supply and the first link of the system..
wouldnt it just be easier to get the proper BCM and have Holden do their magic to it so its basically a factory system?
danja 16-01-2009 07:02 AM
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If you hard wire them, you won't get auto-down/up and you might burn out the motors pretty quick if you keep the switch held down after then reach fully open/closed.
Was it really necessary to copy-paste the entire threads? Links would have sufficed.. if youve already upgraded your BCM, then yes it should just work if youve got the wiring, and just adding the regs + switchs
sweet and not really i just wanted to keep it all together.
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