Many VT Mechanichal Problems

[zaz96]

In this thread I mentioned that my VT commodore had broken down: Can anyone help out with an engine transplant?

Eventually I just ended up getting a mechanic too install the engine (about 6 weeks ago). The engine was fitted and I drove the car home. There seems to be a fair few problems with the car though:

Power Steering: After the engine was installed the power steering wasn't working 100%, when braking before a corner the wheel would become stiff and I would have to accelerate slightly through corners to make it turn (probably a bad power steering pump), as it would loosen up with acceleration. Today as I was driving home and It suddenly got worse. Now the acceleration has MINIMAL effect on the power steering and is very hard to turn the wheel, it has a spring back effect. Power steering fluid is fully topped up.

Violent idling shake: When idling the car will shake violently. The mechanic told me it's because one of the engine mounts were replaced. A mate told me the engine/gearbox aren't aligned properly, which brings me on to the next problem.

Gearbox, no 4th gear After getting the car back from the mechanic I noticed that the car won't go into 4th. I think a couple of times it has kicked into 4th but only momentarily. Going 80km/h on a highway takes up 3500revs, which chews up the petrol. This may have been caused by flat-towing it (automatic trans) for 40km. I have a spare gearbox lying at home from the car that I wrecked if it needs to be replaced. Could be also because of a bad alignment as a mate said to me, Something about turning something.

No flat-foot power: When accelerating, If I put my foot down slightly after halfway the car will make a grumbling noise and lose power. Possible plugs and leads? my car has a brand new Century battery.

I'm not a mechanic and the guy who replaced my engine was a first year mechanic, not a garage.

Can anyone please help???

Please don't ask me to sell or scrap my car as I love it and can't afford anything more at the moment. I've spent money on a double-din head unit, sound system, headrest screens, wheels, etc (obviously before it went mechanically bad).

[stevoss]

sounds like you have a vacuum leak which would be 2nd and 4th problem

gearbox with no 4th if its a auto then its not the alignment on the engine or gearbox, this would only be in the case of an manual in which you couldn't shift into the gear(selector linkage angles mostly)
i would take the car to an automatic transmission specialist and get them to drive it, they are better at identifying the problems with them and can pull errors in the scan tool if there is any.

sounds like you power steering is not bled properly although usually it would bleed out itself on driving, i am leaning towards yes getting a new pump

[VTLS1]

dude,i dunno where to begin on this one. getting a 1st year apprentice to do it,not a good start. 1st question on your replacement engine was it a bare engine or complete wih all accessories,alternator,power steer pump etc? if so,was all your parts changed over like they should have been? when you change an engine mount its always better to change both for a variety of reasons. when the engine was changed was just the motor pulled out or motor & box? have you checked all bellhousing bolts for looseness or that they are all there? it is easy to misalign a motor & box but its not hard to notice its out of line when the bolts are tightened up but this manly happens with a manual,not auto. towing an auto never ever a good thing despite what people tell you. why do you think a majority of tow trucks are flatbeds now. check all vaccum lines are connected,if you still got reverse your auto aint stuffed yet. your flatspot on acceleration,after your foots halfway what happens if you do all the way to the floor? does it die comletely or get over the flatspot & get full rev? if it dies completely check tps switch,wether or not fuel system is blocked or air bubbles in it. if it doesnt die when flat to the floor check leads,spark plugs etc. thing with these engines when you do an engine swap everything should be bled or air,contaniments etc. that includes fuel,coolant,power steer fluid etc. your power steer pump,jack front end up in the air,crack the high pressure power steer line after starting the car,then turn the wheel left & right for awhile. while you do this get someone to see if fluid runs out reasonably evenly from the line or in spurts,also take the resovoir cap off & get them to check for bubbles at the same time

[s_ikari2015]

was the ECM and other computers replaced with the engine? If not there might be a miscommunication which kicks the computer into "Limp home" mode. This would explain the 4th gear not engaging, and possibly even the rough idle.

Misalignment of engine to gearbox also sounds plausible, but try disconnecting the main engine fuses then the battery, then reconnect. This is meant to reset the computer. Simple to do and once all the sensors are retested should fix the limp home.

If problems persist see your doctor... I mean someone with a diagnostics computer.

[zaz96]

When I flat foot on gears 1, 2 or 3 the car will lost power and momentarily stop accelerating. When trying to go from third to fourth the car red-lines as if it slips into neutral and goes back into third. You have to release the gas to stop it from revving.

The reverse gear is working perfectly, so the gearbox is not gone???

The engine that I salvaged did not come with an ECU, It was from an ex-cop car and it was kept by the last owner. The replacement engine come complete with accessories.

How do you drain the fuel lines?

[zaz96]

bump......

[LthlThrt]

prob one might be your power steering arm, i had the same problem when i repaired my enigine.

prob 4 might be your spark plugs, give them a check and a clean, and see if the problem persists