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Thread: Broken VT ignition (urgent)

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    Default Broken VT ignition (urgent)

    Hi guys

    Went to get petrol this morning, got back in the car and the key wouldn't turn at all.

    I've just called around a few places to get the ignition fixed, but the cheapest quote I got was $350 plus towing. Or I could by the barrel from Holden for $75, replace it myself then have it coded.

    Anyone have any idea how I can get the car started? Or can you recommend anyone on the NSW Central Coast who can do it cheaper? It's still sitting at the servo. The steering lock is on, so I can't even push it away from the pump.

    Thanks
    Melissa

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    Have you tried jiggling the steering wheel whilst turning the key? sometimes the steering lock jams the ign key.

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    Yeah, I tried that for about 40 minutes. No luck :-(

    I've just been reading through other posts on here about broken ignitions. Seems I'm being taken for a ride as far as quotes go!

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    Zeussy's Avatar
    Zeussy is offline SSM11K
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    When your stuck and NEED it fixed, some people will tend to take advantage of that..

    Do you know your way around cars a little? or have a b'friend/son/mate that does?

    Its pretty easy, ring around either Holden, or some local locksmiths, just tell them you need an ignition barrel for your VT, and how much for them to intall the pins/code the barrel for you, if it sounds like too much going by other quotes on here, ring somewhere else. Once you have got the new ignition coded, then its all down hill from there (easy) Heres a couple of links to show/tell you how to remove the old one/install the new one.
    Theres a few threads on here about it, I thought there was a 'How To' thread, but haven't found it, They're a bit vague but here they are

    vt ignition barrel

    ignition stuck
    ^^^ Scroll down to post 7

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    Thanks heaps Zeussy

    I've already called ALL the locksmiths and Auto Electricians in my area (live in a small town). I think the fact that I'm female makes them up their prices. One guy said that the entire steering column needs to come out for them to fix it, so "It'll cost a bit and take a while".

    I have no doubt that I'd be able to fix it myself, it's just a matter of getting what I need to do it, and following the right advice.

    So, from what I understand, if I get a new barrel, I can put that in and have a locksmith come out to re-align the pins so I can use my current key? It doesn't need to be re-coded? (or are they both the same thing? lol)

    Thanks for the links too. I actually have both those pages open, trying to take what I can from them.

    Thanks again!

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    What price have you had Locksmiths quote you, down my way you would be looking $190 - $220 for a Locksmith to come out and replace it.


    Dazz

    Also 99% of the time I can get the key to turn at least once to remove cylinder by push the key in and turning at the same time. Vt don't dont seem to wear the wafers out rather a pin at the back digs into to cast thus stopping it to turn
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    P.s obviously make sure you jiggle the steering wheel if the steering lock is on
    VN BT1 Mock Up Commodore
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    LOL, well I'm not too sure about the whole column needing to come out...

    Where abouts are you from? Central Coast Holden (at gosford) is probably the place i'd go to get the barrel.

    The coding/installing the brass slides into the barrel has to be done before you put it in the car, because you need to turn the lock into the 'on' position to put it back in.
    I'm not sure if the lock smiths would need your old lock for reference or if they can do it from you key? I just pulled the old one apart, read/wrote down the numbers and locations of the different slides, then copied that into the new barrel.

    If you are ok with fiddley bits and peices, I'd say have a go a coding/putting the slides in your self, (I ment the same thing, not electronically coding you key or barrel. )
    If you don't want that hassel, get a locksmith to do it for you, its realitively easy - once you've done it. But seeing all the brass slides in with the new barrel you buy, it does look complicated.

    You have to put the key into the ignition and turn it to the on position, then insert a pin into the hole in the top of the housing and depress it to unlock it and then the lock cylinder should come out.
    Taken from accentstencil's post in the other thread..

    I'm not to sure how I got my neighbors one to turn, (it was jammed solid) either by luck, or by taking the ignition switch off the back of the barrel, If you can get it to turn don't turn it back off again - it might not want to turn again lol, That might be why someone told you the steering column needed to come out??

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    Welll.... Ended up calling the NRMA because the people at the servo were going to have it towed. He managed to give it a hit and get it going, so I have the car back home, but I still need to have the barrel replaced.

    It was Holden at Gosford (I'm on the Peninsula) that said it's $75 for the barrel or $350 replaced and recoded. I'm going to get my hubby to call a few places and see if they quote him differently. I'll just pay to have it fixed rather than try to work the bloody thing out.

    Thanks again for all your help guys! Very much appreciated!

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    Ahh ok, well its good its back home now - I would avoid driving it until you get the new barrel though. It would be a nightmare just 'waiting' for it to fail again.

    Seems a bit steep for them, although, I usually just get parts (trade price)
    Hopefully your husband gets better quotes, lol, tell him to sound confident on the phone, knowing what the problem is/how long it will take to fix/what needs to be done etc...
    The problem = ignition barrel.
    How long = not very long, maybe 30mins to an hour,
    What needs to be done = Just remove the old barrel, code (not electronically, putting the right brass slides into the barrel itself) then fit new barrel, no computer coding needs to be done on the key itself or the car, and you shouldn't need a new key, they might try to sell you one anyway.

    Hope some of that helps, don't mind helping out if I can
    Hope you get it sorted too.

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    If you need a barell, i have a full set of VT locks with new key and a low level BCM to match. PM me if interested in a price.

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    Our local locksmith stock the barrels for $49 and that includes coding so I am sure you can get a much better price. I bought a barrel at Holden for around $50 and then took it to the same locksmith who coded it for $17 and then he told me what they sold them for, wish I knew that earlier.
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    The same thing happened to my sons VY . I was up in QLD and couldn't help so i told him to get a can of CRC and spray it into the lock . After letting it soak for about an hour it turned and has been good ever since .
    there are three types of people in the world , those who can count and those who can't

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    happened to me once, $50 for old barrel removal, new barrel and fitted, all done within 20 mins in a 10 minute car park, if you can get the barrel out take it to a locksmith who should have a new one in stock, get him to make it fit your key and then re-fit it to your car yourself, NRMA should of done it for you, RACV would of done mine but my membership ran out about a week earlier

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    Happened to me as well. I went to my local wreckers, got another barrel and key for less than $40 (secondhand) and just swapped key heads. Having never done it before, it took me about 45 mins to change it out.

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    Hi guys. I ended up having the ignition replaced by a Locksmith this morning. Set me back $240. The little plastic part near the end had snapped off.

    Turns out the igntion switch is buggered too. The key needs to be turned back to ON when I start it. It's been like that for a while now, I just assumed that was the ignition barrel.

    Thanks again for all the help guys!

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    Good to hear its sorted, $240 isn't as bad a price as the original quote of $350 was. (still not cheap, but not as bad!)
    Most times, when the ignition breaks like yours did it chews out the ignition switch as well, they should be done when the ignition barrel gets done.
    Do you still need to do the switch?

    I know what its like to 'just need it fixed' I have a family all the same! lol.

    Glad if some of what I/we said was useful to you in some way.

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