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bunnings CAI for vt

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few people been asking for pic's and stuff about how i did it so here it is, hope it helps and makes sence. it prob wont but hey i try'd :D

its all come from bunnings

it's made out of 90mm(i think) plumbers pipe and joiners/angles. and 110mm flexi aluminum tube.

need about 500mm of the straight 90mm pipe,(only comes in 1mtr)
2x90 deg joiners,
1x45deg joiner,
1xstraight thru 3way/Y joiner with a 45deg coming off the side.(its like a straight pipe with an extra pipe coming off the side at 45deg)
lenght of 110mm aluminum flexi tube(think its 1.5mtrs and costs $25 or something round there)
and a bit of silicone and black paint.

the 500mm (aprox) of straight 90mm pipe is in the center

the drivers side of pipe has the 45deg and 90deg joiners on it, (the 45 go's on the end of straight pipe and point's up, and the 90deg go's into the 45 and points out the front of bumper) see 5th pic

the passenger side of straight pipe has the Y section, with the 45deg coming off the side pointing up) and the 90deg go's into the Y peice pointing out front also (see 2nd and 4th pic)


the flexi ally go's onto the ass end of the Y joiner(2nd pic) and up and under head light and straight into air box(need to cut hole). be easya taking out headlight to do it all. ya have to squash the ally tubing to get the light back in but can fit ya hand down the ally tube to open it right up again and reshape it to fit under the light. ya wana open it up as much as possible to get as much flow as possible.

hmmmm this is hurtng my head, so hard to explain. from memory i had to shorten one of the joiners, or cut a bit off it somewhere , think it was a 90deg so it could go into Y the peice.

it looks a bit dodgy now as its been on for 2 or 3 years and i've stuffed around putting a sc14 super charger in it and swap't air box's, swap't radiators, changed motor's and so on and it got a bit beat up in the process.

to me it seems to work great, never had any water issues or leaf matter or extra dirt issues, i havent had any issues with it at all. all i know is that there was a noticeable difference in power, cost's 10 times less than a 'ss induct' one and prob gets more than enough air thru it.
and i've still got the little factory one on it too.

hope this helps ya. 5..jpg3..jpg6..jpg2..jpg1..jpg4..jpgcai3.jpgcai4.jpg
 
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why isn't this showing up in 'threads started by me' in my profile??
 

codeunknown

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all the CAI you guys are making are nothing more than a water injection ram if and when you hit a puddle..
and if you hit a puddle and ram water into the engine...and have try and run on it...it blow the engine apart....

place your air ram CAI above or equal to engines air intake on the engine !

get it as close as possible
get it filtered
get it breathing fresh air

sniffing the air on bottom of the tar road....is sad...
you get better outcomes from night time air --- cool air with the boonet off and holes drilled into the top of air cleaner with mini air ram..snorke fitted to direct forced air flow

and if you have a lowered spring lowered shocker front end it be worse....so low 1inch extra low 2inch or wild and mad low 3 inch...your ground to sniffer height is too low...

you also dont understand the term or words ...""dusted engine"" or look in your car owners manual under adverse conditions

sniffing the crap up along the road that your car vortex will create a vac....and udst and dirt will in going in big time!
even finer parts the filtered was ment for...
the filter where it is fitted now has taken in to account travel dust weight...etc...and just 1 leak in a standard air cleaner and you dust the engine
which means sandblast insides..meaning major dollars for a rebuild..

so air ramming increases your risk factor...
and vac air ramming doubles that risk again !

hence why real makers dont wish to sued...and thus fit wht you consider expensive tested CAI for cars
NOT bunnings super specail budget plumbing fittings...

Mess with a spare bonnet and making air ram scoops and vents.....and stuff....

:) hope this helps you...
 

adamrollo9

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didnt no our cars had lungs mate
 
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code un known----- i've said befor its been on for 2-3 years and no water has gotten in , even when hitting big puddles, to get water in i'd say you'd have to hit a dam or a creek or a very big puddle which would prob rip the bumper off first then prob aqua plain into a tree or a truck. there may b extra dirt but i use an air filter. and not to keen onjust driving around with 'night time air' with 'the boonet off' or with a snorkel fitted into the 'top' of the air box bypassing the filter. just seems a bit odd to me. its not sniffing along the ground, its in the bumper.
 

codeunknown

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well a puddle sometimes turns out to be a flooded road...maybe city boys dont know what a flooded road is yet..cause there busy zooooooming in and down the city street...maybe?

my point is .....have the air intake up high....not down low
have it filtered...

if you want it air rammed ..that good too...but air ram it up high...

in real terms whats the output difference ....
whats its legal difference...

at the moment its a phase ...a talking point.....be it not legal....that be a speerate issue...

there are some slick air ram you get from a bonnet mount...not a new idea been around for ages..
look at intercoolers from turbo's used on cars...

if you want the best proformance and milage....you got to inject fuel and air as close as you can
to the chambers..

maybe you can do a bunning's snorkle LOL
or bunning air ram..using the 90 or 120mm rectangle ...with filter inside of just holes...
and staright tub into flex pipe..
maybe you can vector the flow...like a highclone....

at lest its been tested and has a known output...if you can believe the paper work LOL...

here is what you need to do...you place a cheap temp digital unit which has inside and outside temps...
place on in the air intake and one at the air feed.....and see what the difference is during day and night when traveling..and report the air change temp...

and also place a wind speed meter inside the air intake opening and where it goies insiode the air mass and tell us what the reorded air flow is at the scoup point and at the engine..and we sell how much friction is there...

and plug in the lappie and cable....and download the software and record the fuel use difference and rev reduction for speed..and vol of fuel...

But just hanging a bunning s 20 dollar dont cut it...

LOL...but i know i am old and i got get the fun side...lol
 
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haha bunnings snorkel, will look into it .lol, .. might get a bin lid and use it for a bonnet scoop too :)
as for believing the paper work , HA, its like every brand of injector cleaner saying there the quickest/fastest/best working around, grab a different brand'd bottle next to it and it say's the same thing.lol hmm

and whats the go with the laptop thing???? can i connect a cable to the car from laptop and get readings of everything?? if so- what will it tell me/how useful is it diagnosing problems ect, and is it a worth while doing it all? can u adjust anything with it? ect, ect,
 

codeunknown

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lol....i glad we joke about this...cause it is a little funny....:)
i got all sorts of visions ...with bunnings spare parts for holdens....and i recon we got everyone else thinking the same deal...
if i see a bunnings wheelie bin lid on the bonnet .....LOL i will be as happy as !

on the injector cleaner..stuff...just for those interested...it ios good stuff and you should use
it in a tank say 1out of 2 or 3 tanks...
some people water it down by using it in every tank...
if the label says 300mls to 90litre or something...tip the lot in your tank of 70litres that usually the $3.00 stuff to 4.99 stuff and it works a treat...
if the stuff is a 300ml bottle and it say 100 ml does 90 litres use just the 1/3 of the bottle ..your prob using the 7.99---11.99 stuff and its great too :)

clean injectors ...means great spray pattern of fuel which menas little waste...of fuel..

well you have a connection in the holden ..16 pin for aldl link...
this will be aldl one side and usb the other...
several programs on the web will run from this cable

and most can monitior and data log....all sorts of things...

also you can buy chips...for the car the computer...that you can adapt the settings..
you can take the base setttings and then change stuff

you may want to have the firing at a differnet degree btc than the book...etc...

maybe you may want to change the range of resistance in the air mass metre sensor
so it thinks the temp is really 10C lower...

i dont play with these things...on my beloved holden vt...
i have on other engines.....:) in the past....

and as i said ...and there are posts here for that....lappie codes and fault finding and etc..etc..etc..
if you want to test the bunnings gear out to see if your just a person who needs excuses to visit and buy bunnings...stuff......or if your engine ---car mad...and you want a cheap homebrew made add on that does something besides cost you 20 bucks ..takes 2 hrs to make...and you think it does something good:) besides getting a laugh from a police officer or department of transport inspector...then perhaps reading more about stuff or visit...
OBD Diagnostics, Inc. - ALDL (GM OBD1) Cable with 16 pin Connector as a starting point...
we got a guy ..meber on here who makes the cables ..and i did send him a pm...some time back...
and i still waiting for an answer...
so micheal if you read it ..whatsd your cable worth these days ...and how can we order one

thanks wana's charge stock vt.......:)
 
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