Engine Lifetime

[AdamHC]

Hi,
Am thinking about buying a commodore about 1999. Just wondering about how many k's do you think these cars can do before their engines die? This will be my first car and I've just started uni so I won't really have the money to replace the engine if it does die. Most of the cars I'm interested in buying are on about 200,000 kms. And I don't really know much about cars.

[MikeCuzzy]

Hi Adam,

Well it does depend on a million things, like how far are you driving daily/weekly, how it was used before. My VT has 414 000+ km, and it is only now sounding like it could do with some work. Unfortunately there's no guarantee on engine life, but low k's and well maintained are the first things to look for. Also why do you want a Commodore? Yes they are awesome, but a 99 VT is still going to be like 4k for one that is good (depending, you might be lucky get a good one for less). Also remember it isn't just the engine, but the gearbox is also and expensive problem should it decide to... break. If it has been serviced every 10,000km it's whole life, that's a start. Also if you have a good mechanic or family member with automotive experience their advice will be better than mine

[undar8ed1]

I`d say about 800k.

[Mick1988]

Mate, K's mean nothing. Just service the engine and replace parts as needed. I've been in a VX taxi and it had 903000 on the clock.

[MikeCuzzy]

Mick's right, but be aware the older it is, the more it's going too cost. But worth it I think.

[savage1987]

Dad's VT is almost at 400,000 and still going strong. ALL depends on oil changes

[jazza15]

While we are on the topic of old engines. The standard oil grade to use for ecotecs is 15w-40. Mine is using a bit of oil (about 5 litres in about 8 months). At around how many k's should one be looking to switch to 20w-50 and is there anything you can do otherwise such as changing the valve stem seals to prevent this switch to a thicker grade?
Please enlighten me.

[HBDCalais]

it depends how where ur oil is getting into the cyclinder from, it may not be comming thru the valve stem seals at all, does it blow any smoke at all like when u back off throttle at a higher rpm, if auto lock it into 2nd or a lower gear to get it up to about 2-4krpm to cause vaccum for it to suck thru the inlet valve stem seals,

but it could be just the fact uve got worn scraper and oil rings and they arnt making good contact with the cyclinder walls

depends on the ammount of km's your doing 5litres in 8 months may not be that bad, but if ur only doing like 10000k's in that ammount of time that would be high as u would nilly be using an entire sump full

but i wouldnt look at using 20-50 i think ull find its to thick and will cause your hydraulic lifters to become noisy,

i would try to get a better quality oil, look at the nulon branded oil in the 15-40w as its not bad and i found it stayed cleaner alot longer they other brands ive used

[peckzz]

well i got a vr done 338,000 kms, not a thing wrong with it before i got it, started giving it a flogging and seals n gaskets left right n centre are going, evan water hoses are blowing haha, so pretty much the more km's its got on it the easier you have to drive it pretty much

[Tim Smtih]

Mate, K's mean nothing. Just service the engine and replace parts as needed.

They mean nothing if you can guarantee that the car and engine in particular has been looked after. Sometimes idiots own cars and "forget" to change filters and oil etc when required. If you intend on owning the car for a while obviously your best bet would be as low k's as possible, and always have the car looked over by someone that knows what they are doing. It might cost a couple of extra dollars to have someone give the car a good going over but as i've already learned, roadworthies can be done up by mates of mates and don't mean a bloody thing. I picked up my 2000 VX Acclaim for $3000 with 99,000 on the clock. Shop around don't pick the first car that you find.

[undar8ed1]

While we are on the topic of old engines. The standard oil grade to use for ecotecs is 15w-40. Mine is using a bit of oil (about 5 litres in about 8 months). At around how many k's should one be looking to switch to 20w-50 and is there anything you can do otherwise such as changing the valve stem seals to prevent this switch to a thicker grade?
Please enlighten me.

The VS ecotec is 20w/50w reccommened, I`ll get you proof if you require, did they change it in later models or did you stuff up with saying 15w/40w?

[wortus]

I looked on the Nulon web site a while back and from memory they recommend 10W30 for a VY Ecotech. I've always used Caltex Magnatec and had no problems with that except this car seems to use a bit more than my old VN Buick engine. The grade of oil depends on how the car is used. I prefer to use a good quality oil and still change it and the filter at around half the recommended change interval.

[WogBoyz]

I looked on the Nulon web site a while back and from memory they recommend 10W30 for a VY Ecotech. I've always used Caltex Magnatec and had no problems with that except this car seems to use a bit more than my old VN Buick engine. The grade of oil depends on how the car is used. I prefer to use a good quality oil and still change it and the filter at around half the recommended change interval.

i use nulon 10w40 fully sin in my ecotec had it for 2 changes now havnt had any problems, doesnt use any oil and isnt noisey

[AdamHC]

Thanks for all the replies guys
I think ill get it checked by someone independently and try find a car that looks like it been looked after rather than just how many ks its done.

[codeunknown]

yep a NRMA OR RACQ ETC...INSPECTION IS REALLY A GREAT IDEA...

and engines are........ how they are driven and treated
a well treated 300k car is better than a 180k mistreated one....

it depends on its starting point....for a start ecotec is a well made engine..
it was ment for unleaded and gas
it was ment for standard ofr supercharged or turbo

so it got the goods right there....

its also the high proformer in fuel use ...with 7.5L/100 to 12l/100 city and country driving

it was not ment for heavy trailer pulling...
and mid weight ...is more what its geared for..

i agree 200% put a teflon coating or other equal oil in it
maybe you can run 10/40 with good condition
15/40-50 when it wears a little and blows a little tailpipe
then rebuild time!

i say a personal use car vt..would get 450000kms ---550000kms per engine...

750----850K relates to taxi's who have more run time..and less non run time
stopping and starting does more damage long term...

and those taxi using gas...could go ...with dual fuel and upper cyclinder lubing 1000000kms

it depends if your a rev head
it depends if your a engine---and other parts caring owner...
it depends also the quality of the car and parts...and how often...you do it..

it depends on what you see is your best way to get into a car...
buy cheap and do it ..and learn as you go...

or buy cheap and be out of pocket...
or buy dearer and be a twit and a rev head and have to be spending money all the time on the car..

But i think....a car in 100-250k range for best price...is your best bet...
even if you get the car for that and have to replace a load of stuff ..
eg 1000 for car + 1300 for engine swap + 500 on body + 800 on other parts...
your getting a car you then know what you done ..and what can go wrong...down the track

anyway...

[jazza15]

The VS ecotec is 20w/50w reccommened, I`ll get you proof if you require, did they change it in later models or did you stuff up with saying 15w/40w?

I was told to use 15w40 when i bought oil last time at repco.
Just had another look at the VT workshop manual, (thorough look this time) and it said use 15w40 for snowy areas..basically european winter climate and 20w50 for normal and higher ambient temperatures - Australian climate. WTF Repco?? No wonder I have been using so much oil, engine is probably fine!

[savage1987]

20W-50 every 5000 km was the routine for my VN's old motor. 500,000km later, no excessive wear on the inside. Worn far less than expected for those sorts of KM. Had that much again in it for sure

[codeunknown]

what i am saying ..or pointing out..is a light weight ..thinner oil...can be often used on an engine and you dont see it getting blown out the tailpipe...

as the engine wears....thinner oil slips past the ring gear etc...and valves not seating as perfect as a newer engine
and signs are ..out the tailpipe...

use the oil the book says as your starting point...if it says 15w40 start with that...then go 20 w 40-50

ok

usually you go up a grade ..range ..thickness...is a way of solving the issue..

thats my point....when using oils...mineral base oils...
thicker oil means it dont get washed away with fuel...
and it holds on the sides better...
takes longer to drain away...etc..etc...


when you use poly oils.....with additives for friction mods...like nylon etc...it tries to fill the gaps!
it also trys to make a surface seal...
so a 2 treatment of nylon and syn base oil use thereafter will gap filler the issue..

[Paully]

I bought my 1997 VT Berlina with 212000 a few years ago. It's so true what they say. As long as the engine has been well looked after and serviced regularly, the km's don't really matter. The km's only really mean something when it comes to resale value, but take it from me mate, if you're buying a 99 Commy with 200000km's on it, resale value is irrelevant. lol

[scottysvtcommie]

i brought a vt commodore a few months ago and it had 214 xxx ks on it and seemed fine but about 2 days after owning it a big end started slapping realy bad from who ever used to own it hadnt been servicing it reguly and from looking at the car you couldn't even tell it hadnt been serviced regally the rest of the car was in immaculate condition and had all new oils so just make sure u are buying one that has been regally serviced and if it has books to prove it even better, i was just lucky the car yard i got it from paid for a new engine with only 165 xxx ks on it to be put in

cheers scott

[codeunknown]

well scott i recon they took a chance that a buyer would take the car and not come back to have the job fixed...
and that engine was goin to be put in...but they waited for sale...
now they can right of the engine they replaced as service.....
did you buy a australia warantee service from the dealer with the car ?

even if you did not ...that dealer need to claim the stock part...(aka replacement engine) and you helped when you bought it..the car..

anyway....so long as you scored with no out of pocket to you...Yeeeehaaaa

point is some cars dont have the oily bits looked after and some do...
and not always do people who own look after both at the same time to the same level...

take mechanic buddy with you or have it tested...and be sellective....

[AdamHC]

Umm so guys I was foolish as, ended up liking the family who was selling the car. Seemed really trustworthy (dont they always) and took me for a test drive, said theyd get everything that was required to get it roadworthy, figured the hassle of getting someone to inspect it wasnt needed. So I bought it and it came with a rwc, day after getting it I notice somethings wrong with the brakes (steering wheel and car shakes when braking). Got my uncle to look at it and he said that the front left shock is leaking, and the power steering too. Both need to be replaced. And I need new bushes or something on the brakes... It's a 99 S series commodore.

Anybody know how much all that will cost to fix? And is there anything I can do to get them or the mechanic to pay for it? And how do I go about getting this dodgy mechanic into trouble???

[ch1mp]

if you have the roadworthy certificate i'm sure you can do something about it although i wouldn't have a clue how. i'm sure someone on here would know. When i first got my car i had the same problem. i got all my rotors machined, all new pads and new bushes for $440. but then again they were pretty dodgy too so i think i got a cheap price. got good bushes though coz this was 4 years ago and they're still going well. i got those red ones that are for high performance i think. makes the car a bit harder though. so ye if the price of mine were correct, it shouldn't be too much.

[acarmody]

Ok the shudder through the brakes and wheel when braking sounds like a warped disc, either machine disc and new pads, or new discs and new pads. New front shocks (replace in pairs) not too hard to do yourself if your handy with a spanner. Reco power steering rack cost cost quite a bit if you want a mechanic to get one. And can't help with bushes unless you can specify which one. Ask uncle if he is referring to the one that go from the sway bar to the shock. Piss easy to replace and cheap too.

If the car is leaking power steering fluid and the shock is leaking too then it should never have passed roadworthy, I'm not sure on the procedure for getting the mechanic too fix it, but definitely pursue them.

[ch1mp]

oh ye i was actually gonna say...what everyone is saying about the servicing is true. example...my girlfriend's uncle is a complete idiot. he bought a limited edition VR hydratrack blah blah blah statesman for like $80k. this guy is the cheapest guy i know. he barely ever used his car coz he worked from home. he didn't service his car in 12 years!!! he believed that nothing needed to be replace until it was completely broken. his car only had about 100,000kms on it and he recently had to get it rebuilt coz it basically didn't even start anymore. and this thing is his baby. but once one thing broke, because he didn't get it fixed in time, everything else broke...so ye...service it regularly lol