cure for lifter rattle

[coasty]

my daughters vt berlina v6 had lifter rattle. just wouldnt keep quiet. we dumped the oil and put in light diesel oil. ran it for 5000ks then changed it and the filter again.
first lot i strained through a bed sheet. should have seen the junk.
2nd lot was cleaner but still bringing out little floaters.
changed back to standard nulon and have heard nothing from the lifters.
cost me (as usual) about $100 all up. the quote to replace the lifters and clean the sump was over $2300. just a bit of a saving.
for those who dont know diesel oil has detergents in it.

[codeunknown]

yes that the old holden and ford lifter trick...also with solids we had to file a little so they would start spinning and ...
and clean out the oil hole..to get them quiet...

a classic from the past hint..and well worth telling

[drift-it]

does anyone do that but with dexIII? heard that works 2.

[codeunknown]

i would not put that in...personally......

[moose man]

It certainly works well, but be careful.
The crud you saw coming out acts to seal parts of the engine and make it run more efficiently. Piston rings, rubber seals and gaskets can suffer from being too clean. I've seen many engines suffer from excessive blow-by and unstoppable leaks after using high detergent oil by mistake. Have you ever wondered why some automatic trans and power steering systems always seep from seals and gaskets?

I wouldn't recommend this to anyone. I'm glad it worked for you though.

[wortus]

I actually asked Valvolene recently if I could use super diesel plus in my Ecotech as I have a container of it, noting that it is listed as suitable if the engine uses LPG and they said it had too much detergent in it to use on an Ecotech using petrol. It may be OK to help clean out an engine that has not been maintained with regular oil changes but it will wash carbon out of the rings and may result in blow back and lower compression.

[Snap-on]

Very interesting. What brand and grade of oil did you use coasty?
I used penrite in my old vl once and it made the tappets noisy. The detergents were too much and cleaned the deposits. Had to replace the buggers. I have also heard that engine oil flush can have the same effect and clean more than what you really want.

[codeunknown]

see diesel fuel has more slip rate..............and thus with a high slip rate lube as well............

but lgp and E10 and unleaded and max unleaded and super ...have less slip rate... and need that quality in the oil
and to get to stay there as well and yet make it flow....

diesel has the highest cleaner in it.....its got a the oil cleaning...its got kero cleaning and fuel stabilzer and sparling adgent...
perfect for unlocking frozen engines...
perfect for standing a engine for soaking
perfect for washing a engine....

but you got to remove that from a non diesel once you finished cleaning and you got to know what your cleaning ...
easy and best with disassembled parts...
but a complete engine......most times if the engine has a used rear and front seal...and you diesel wash....
be ready to replace both !

its best added to a mix or normal oil...in a over time cleaning action plan...
simular to when you wash and clean car bodies.....never just use soap...
use soap and dash of kero......on any car paint work from home banger to lambo...why....
the kero does 2 things.....1 addes in smear effect and helps the soap proform best
2 the kero acts as a adgent to attack and remove dead paint .....and stains...such as bitumen and tree sap..insect splatter..


kero in the oil does the cleanin action as well.......

unless the engine is stuck and your using diesel wash and rust removal and free up of piston and rings...
or the valve tappet cover cleaning...
becareful how you use it...

opt for dilute use .....with increased ratio over a set period...

[coasty]

has done 8000 since it was done. not a problem. the oil i used was from supercheap auto. its a light diesel oil. the lightest one they have. ive done it to older cars and had no problem.
it may cause problems if your cars old and worn out or you flog crap out of it. with mine it saved money and worked. no watering down just run it as it was.

[calais24/7]

So my vl is as clogged to the s***house with sludge and old deposits, what viscosity diesel oil do you recommend its got 237 thousand on the clock also how long should i leave it in there for? Engine oil flush has never worked for me. Will it cause any seals to blow or any damage to my car?

[codeunknown]

PMS be careful mate.....this can be a hit and miss job.....what brand of engine flush did you use and what was the engine oil used with it...
and long or how far did you drive it with the stuff in ?

if you use diesel oil...in the 5w 30 10w30 for light engines 15w 30-40 for the next size up....

if you got an active agent flushing clean,,,,,,,its usally actived by heat....
the other way is to soak....fill and leave.........soften.....

but you need to ask which is the highest detergent rated oil as well.....
be prepared to have to do a mini strip down if ....the cleaning goes wild...
such as remove and manually clean sump / take off the heads / and flush out / etc...

wynns used to have a product add to oil for cleaning...
and so did stp....

see you dont just need to dislodge the gunk...but you need to break it up to get it out...and you got some very fine oil pathways.
if you dropped your oil every 2500 and changed oil filter every 5000 you could run a diesel cleaning with oil...
you need to changing often as that ..and do it hot...drop out hot always..
you can flush out the oil filter in 2500 ...
there are some savage oil removers.....perhaps you need a savage one....
but be aware of the risk....
it should not effect a seal....however 10 years old and 200000km engine ..could do with a seal change ....
as i said normally bad engines are stripped for this...sort of cleaning...

be careful mate....if your engine is a older type and its used oil that older tye most of its life...it will have a carbon===carcoal
deposit...
if its been run low of oil regular..it have a carbon sludge or jell ....not easy to get out of a tappet cover with a kero washer or parts washer...and messy...

i remeber seeing in some service mags some time back...a flushing unit for engines..for mechanics...ment to work the same way as a water //coolant flusher...
and they add an additvie...and it uses refiltered oil and air pressure...and i was told it power flushes the engine inside...
the engine has to hot....and they use a warmed oil....and leave on for 1-2 hrs...

I dont know who has one....but i guess repco / simualr reconditioners might..
maybe someone in the belconnen area has one ..or fyshwick industrial area....might

[calais24/7]

Cheers for the lengthy response, i have only had the car 9 months but im guessing it hasnt been changed reguraly at some point, i used nulon flush and castrol 10w50 oil and im planning to change the oil and filter in a fortnight. Any idea what the machine is called so i dont sound like a totall d*ck when i call up mechanics? And roughly how much would they charge for this service?

[lifeguard_aus]

dexIII is not recommended!....it does clean out the s**T but that s**T has to go some where!....normally into the bores and around the rings in the long term...spend a little and try PRO MA MBL8! this stuff really works...even stops big end rattles if you catch it quick enough

[codeunknown]

i like lifeguards answer it follows up from mine...a quality flushing agent...

i have no idea what the brand or machine was called for the engine ...and who knows who bought it....

be careful as when you use transmission oil.....its high cleaning...alright....and used to keep bands and papers clutches in auto's clean as ...
in fact a auto running right will look as just its just been built if reg serviced ..and used the right oil and had reg cleans and a has a good quality cooler and filter..

you never get that from engine oil...on petrol...
but you do in diesel...

and since you will be cleaning this out...

also you get a cleaner oil from lpg...
or from a quality filtering...like a franz filter...
why...cause they really remove burnt oil and burnt deposits...and catcvh them in the paper filter..
i beleive there is a clone cheaper version of a franz that works on everything as well...
have no idea what it is ..i seen it 1 or twice on ebay or the net...

not all oil filters have pressured valves
and certainly no standard oil filter is anywhere near a quality after market franz....

ask some one who has a franz to show you oil in his car anywhere from 20k to 50k old
hard to believe its colour....
hard to believe its slip rate in your fingers still like new...
and they use a good qual oil with a add like stp or wynns or friction modified...and cleaner..and really have a clean engine...

the other advantage...is....when it starts up....you have thickness of oil right there ..so less friction from cold or hot restart

anyway....back to the main point...
once you have it clean..runa few washes of standard mineral oil....
then go back a nylon coating etc...and quality oil...
for the reason i said and what lifes..last comment was about.. bottom end protection...

there is every reason to have a quality oil and cleaner..filter..

i be changing my standard to a franz or clone...before or after lpg fitting..
i dont like to alter cars engines from standard..unless its substandard...

and oil filtering is sunb standard..sorry holden...but its true...