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Thread: Lowering advice

  1. #1
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    Default Lowering advice

    I'm after advice from all those sitting on kings superlows and ultra lows. Iv searched this forum And read many different opinions on ride height Nd still cannot come to a conclusion on weTher to go with sl all round or superlows front and ultras rear. I want the guard sitting bang on the tyre and the car to be level. R the ultras worth it or shud I stick with superlow.? What kind of problems will I have with the cAr at this height? The car is vx 2 exec with ss kit

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    i would also like to know about this, going with superlows do you need to change shockers also, and also same question for SSL

  3. #3
    GetToDaChopa is offline Blues Brother # 2
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    Yes you need to change the shocks as well. I would go with super lowes. If you have irs, you also need a camber kit. If you have a live axle you'll need an adjustable panhard rod (if that's spelled right).

    Ultra lowes on the back is going to make you car look levelled (apparently) but if you carry things in the car or you have a few people in the back of the car, then your car will look like its carrying an invisible caravan.




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    Best off going to your local suspension shop and telling them exactly where you want your car too sit.. They'll measure it up and tell you what springs and shocks to get.
    Check out my ride!

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    ^^^^ totally agree go to your local suspension place and they will be able to make your car sit dead level
    good luck

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    I was actually planing to buy one of the lowering kits from this forum and get it installed proffesionally. Bit if there's no guarentee it's goin the be the height I want I might have to think bout going through a suspension shop and tell them what I want...spewin though coz the kits seemed cheap compared to some quotes I have got.

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    and the end of the day u could buy the kit and not be happy with the height and then u have wasted your money best is to be safe spend the extra coin and be happy with the job first time round

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    D3CID3R's Avatar
    D3CID3R is offline Just Commodores NSW
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    Could get advice from dealer. And then see if the rocommendatioms are for sale on here to save a couple of dosh. No harm in asking the dealer if they will install them for u aswell

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    LthlThrt's Avatar
    LthlThrt is offline Chef Jay in Port Douglas
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    Yeh i might ring around and get some profesinal oppinions. I deffinatly don't want to do the job twice...can anyone recomend a good suspension shop around melb preferably west...

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    From what iv herd it will cost about 1000-1500 to do it properly...shocks cAmber etc

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    jazza15 is offline Jarryd
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    Genuine front FE2 shocks - $260, rears about $100, camber kit is around $500 installed, couple of hundred for springs, dust boots and nuts for the front struts possibly, so that could be about $50 more + labour for instalation and front and rear wheel alignment.
    I know at Pedders the camber kit installed with a good f+r alignment will be $500 + $110 respecitvely.

    My question is why do you want to lower the rear more than the front? This is the question that any decent suspension joint will ask you. Look at the back of your car or even a v8 supercar. They both sit up a bit more at the back, because they both dip down in the rear as you accelerate for a reason. Ultralows will definetely prevent this from working properly and possibly SSL's as well.

    With a full tank of fuel I noticed that my car sits fairly level on FE2 anyway.

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    it sits up in in the rear more for a preped breaking stance (safty wise for factory cars) ,, but looks good ass down i rekon it wont dip down to0 bad on exeleration if u get good sport shocks anyway.

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    Cheers for all the tips guys. I ended up ordering king sl front and ul rear...bit I'm already having second thoughts. If I could go back in time I would probly go sl all round. I'm going to see if I can change the order bit iv got a feeling it will be to late. If it is I'll chuck the ultras in a d see how they go. Shouldn't be to
    hard to flog off if I don't
    like them.

  16. #16
    LthlThrt's Avatar
    LthlThrt is offline Chef Jay in Port Douglas
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazza15 View Post
    Genuine front FE2 shocks - $260, rears about $100, camber kit is around $500 installed, couple of hundred for springs, dust boots and nuts for the front struts possibly, so that could be about $50 more + labour for instalation and front and rear wheel alignment.
    I know at Pedders the camber kit installed with a good f+r alignment will be $500 + $110 respecitvely.

    My question is why do you want to lower the rear more than the front? This is the question that any decent suspension joint will ask you. Look at the back of your car or even a v8 supercar. They both sit up a bit more at the back, because they both dip down in the rear as you accelerate for a reason. Ultralows will definetely prevent this from working properly and possibly SSL's as well.

    With a full tank of fuel I noticed that my car sits fairly level on FE2 anyway.
    doesn't it also dip down when you out it in 'D'? so if i ask for FE2 they'll know what i mean? do you have any photos?

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    jazza15 is offline Jarryd
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    Photo's - look at pictures of VT?VX ss/s Pacs. Plenty on this forum with FE2.
    I don't know about this "preped braking stance", but the rear sits up for when you accelerate! You will be bouncing all over the road with ultra lows in, putting stress on other suspension and driveline components. The rear does need to dip down for the car to work properly!
    I have enough problems coming out of drivelways etc. with FE2 and the factory body kit, going lower than that would be a pain in the arse IMO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jazza15 View Post
    Photo's - look at pictures of VT?VX ss/s Pacs. Plenty on this forum with FE2.
    I don't know about this "preped braking stance", but the rear sits up for when you accelerate! You will be bouncing all over the road with ultra lows in, putting stress on other suspension and driveline components. The rear does need to dip down for the car to work properly!
    I have enough problems coming out of drivelways etc. with FE2 and the factory body kit, going lower than that would be a pain in the arse IMO.
    ok cheers ill have a look. how bad are the drive ways, just askig because mine is pretty steep?

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    jazza15 is offline Jarryd
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    If it got a fair kerb on it, you have to go slow and you are fine. Basically anything that you would slow down for at speed, you just have to go slower than with standard suspension, generally speaking.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LthlThrt View Post
    just jumping in on this to, but how much are you looking at to lower a vt/vx?
    One of these is your best bet:
    KYB / Kings Commodore Lowering Packages!

    With regards to knowing the height, King's have hub to guard charts that are very accurate. If you tell us what hub to guard measurement you'd like both front and rear, we can pretty much get it to that level. For any given Commodore there's about 20 different springs available between front and rear, so it's never a drama.... Lovells is a little harder as there's only generally 3 different heights for any given model.

    If I could go back in time I would probly go sl all round. I'm going to see if I can change the order bit iv got a feeling it will be to late.
    All good mate! We got them swapped for the SL!

    Also, if anybody has any concerns with the height. If you've told us what height you want, and it hasn't come out at that, exchange of the springs is no issue, and we'll wear the cost. We go off the same dealer hub to guard list that any other suspension place will use, so if we're going to supply the incorrect springs, then so is any shop you're going to go to, so either way it will be doing the job twice, and as I said if it doesn't meet the height we promised we'll swap them for nothing.
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    jazza15 is offline Jarryd
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    Get your car lowered by people like GSR Rally Sport.
    They won't just dump your car poorly and then not want to know you when you come back saying that it's been done all wrong.
    They sound like the sort of place that gets it right the first time and if you are one of the very few that has a problem, they will fix it at their cost. I'm sure many would agree with me on this one.

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    LthlThrt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gslrallysport View Post
    One of these is your best bet:
    KYB / Kings Commodore Lowering Packages!

    With regards to knowing the height, King's have hub to guard charts that are very accurate. If you tell us what hub to guard measurement you'd like both front and rear, we can pretty much get it to that level. For any given Commodore there's about 20 different springs available between front and rear, so it's never a drama.... Lovells is a little harder as there's only generally 3 different heights for any given model.


    All good mate! We got them swapped for the SL!

    Also, if anybody has any concerns with the height. If you've told us what height you want, and it hasn't come out at that, exchange of the springs is no issue, and we'll wear the cost. We go off the same dealer hub to guard list that any other suspension place will use, so if we're going to supply the incorrect springs, then so is any shop you're going to go to, so either way it will be doing the job twice, and as I said if it doesn't meet the height we promised we'll swap them for nothing.
    sweet as ill have to go and get out the ol tape measure, thanks for that and your in brisbane to, where abouts?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazza15 View Post
    If it got a fair kerb on it, you have to go slow and you are fine. Basically anything that you would slow down for at speed, you just have to go slower than with standard suspension, generally speaking.
    ok thanks for that i usually go slow over them anyway just better safe then sorry, just have to go slower over them, cheers

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    My car is in my sig. It's sitting on Ultra Lows all round. I get a bit of scrapage on my mudflaps but if you take mudflaps off I think you'd get over most bumps. Only thing with an SS kit is you'd have to watch out when youre parking and there is a high kerb in front.
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