Help with some fault codes and a ticking sound!

[acarmody]

OK for a few weeks now the idle and running of the car has been a bit dodge. Sometimes (more often when cold) the car will drop nearly all RPM when slowing for lights or anything, nearly stall then regain RPM. So today I got an auto sparky to pull up any fault codes, got his:

P0405 - EGR Position fault
P1372 - No ref pulses while cranking
P0101 - MAF sensor out of range

Now MAF ok pretty important, I will try changing mine with my parents VY V6 one later, hopefully just oil from K&N filter on sensors, as MAF is only about 2 years old. Now what about the others? Might the EGR solenoid be stuck? And might the other one be a failing CAS? It still cranks and starts fine.

Now the other problem is a ticking sound that I can hear in the cabin. Now heads were done mid last year with engine rebuild, I replaced the lifters about 2 months ago. Might it be a dodgy injector? When I use my auto stethoscope on injector rail its pretty noisy, but that noise may be coming from engine so I don't know. Though I have noticed that ticking sound gets louder when you use more accelerator but RPM doesn't increase. So when I go on an incline and I push accelerator down further but the engine doesn't increase RPM or kick down a gear the ticking sound gets louder, but when it does change down a gear the sound gets softer. Any opinions?

Thanks in advance.

[showbags]

sounds like the pipe between the EGR valve and inlet is leaking. that would explaing the ticking noise as well.

[acarmody]

If the pipe was leaking how would the car sense that? Sounds like a EGR *ahem* 'Support Bracket' might fix that problem. It might not clear the code, but would stop hot, used exhaust gases from entering the engine when it shouldn't.

[moose man]

If the pipe was leaking how would the car sense that? Sounds like a EGR *ahem* 'Support Bracket' might fix that problem. It might not clear the code, but would stop hot, used exhaust gases from entering the engine when it shouldn't.

When the ECU commands the EGR to open and allow, say, 20g/sec of exhaust gas in, it also expects to see the intake air amount (MAF value) decrease by this much. If the MAF value does not change, an EGR fault code may be set.

It's also important to note, that EGR open commands are usually only given by the ECU during light throttle cruise when the engine is hot, and NEVER during full or high throttle openings. Blocking your EGR does nothing to increase power output at full throttle.

[acarmody]

Oh I don't expect any power gains, just want a cooler intake manifold. I have a MACE 12mm manifold insulator, but the manifold still get hot.