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Thread: Serpentine Belt Slipping

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    Default Serpentine Belt Slipping

    Hey guys, yesterday on the highway my serpentine belt seemed to shred itself and when I put a new one on I found that where the tensioner pulley is the belt doesn't sit on it properly and hangs off the edge a little and after taking it for a drive it shredded off the part that was overhanging.

    I've attached a pic of what it looks like with the new one on. Has anyone had this drama before and can offer some advice?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Serpentine Belt Slipping-dsc_1591.jpg   Serpentine Belt Slipping-dsc_1590.jpg  

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    I can only guess that there is a lot of play in the tensioner pulley or the water pump pulley causing the belt to move to thee side because one of those pulleys is not running true.
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    How would I go about fixing the play in the tensioner pulley? I just checked it and it is quite loose if you push it a bit but I couldn't see how to fix it.

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    The only way to fix it is to buy a new one, around $30 from places like Repco, Supercheap, Bursons, Auto-one or Holden. To undo the centre bolt just remember it is left hand thread.
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    i am having the same problem with my vt commodore, have replaced the tensioner pulley and belt and looks identical to the above photo, what was the outcome mate? did you replace the whole tensioner assembly and have no other issues? any help would be much appreciated

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    yeah if the tensioner was holding tension it wouldnt allow the belt to sit off to the side.. it would hold it properly..

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    ive bought a nw tensioner this morning i plan on fiting it over the weekend so i will let you guys know how i go, ive also bought a set of pulleys thought i may aswell do the lot while im their.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sheded_vn View Post
    ive bought a nw tensioner this morning i plan on fiting it over the weekend so i will let you guys know how i go, ive also bought a set of pulleys thought i may aswell do the lot while im their.
    smart guy..

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    If you have the metal type tensioner and idler pulleys,then you can just renew the bearings in the pulleys.I paid around $5 - $7 each for the new bearings from a bearing place.They wanted around $30 - $40 each for complete brand new idler and tensioner pulleys, so just replacing the bearings can save heaps..The only tool thats needed to renew the bearings is a set of circlip pliers, which are available cheap at most auto parts stores.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett_jjj View Post
    If you have the metal type tensioner and idler pulleys,then you can just renew the bearings in the pulleys.I paid around $5 - $7 each for the new bearings from a bearing place.They wanted around $30 - $40 each for complete brand new idler and tensioner pulleys, so just replacing the bearings can save heaps..The only tool thats needed to renew the bearings is a set of circlip pliers, which are available cheap at most auto parts stores.
    wow mate thats some handy information!! cheers

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    thats correct on some metal pulley's the bearings can be replaced rather then the hole unit although not all metal pulleys are like that with the circlip. Most that i have seen have the bearings pressed into them so you cant just renew the bearings.

    luckily for me i know a few ppl in the parts industry so i managed to get everything at a really good price ill let you guys know how i go over the weekend i just hope that is the cause of my problem otherwise its back to the drawing board lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by sheded_vn View Post
    thats correct on some metal pulley's the bearings can be replaced rather then the hole unit although not all metal pulleys are like that with the circlip. Most that i have seen have the bearings pressed into them so you cant just renew the bearings.
    I have replaced a fair few of these bearings now in the metal pulleys for different people, and I havent ran into any yet that need pressing in.Theyve all had the circlips,so the pressed in ones cant be too common..I dont even remember ever seeing a pressed in one come to think of it..

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    i guess it depends on brand really some ya can some you cant. but a handy piece of information to know if you need to replace one and can do it the cheap way.

    back to the original issue no one else had the same problem as the above photo and rectified it?

  14. #14
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    Have you looked at the indicator arrow on the tensioner to see where it is sitting? If it's moved away from the correct location and the belt is that loose, I would suspect that the tensioner spring has had the sword. If you push down on the belt, does the tensioner arrow move easily? It shouldn't if it's in good order.

  15. #15
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    Pulleys made by KILKENNY CASTINGS, in the yellow box and made here in South OZ have the removable bearings. All too easy!

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    tensioner is shit it self, replace and remmber to get new o rings for the coolent and then rebleed,

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    ive come to the conclusion its defintaly the tensioner last night had the engine running got a screw driver in behind it and levered it and the belt started running correctly as i suspect the tensioner casing has worn and the pulley is now on a slope which is making it run along the edge of the pulley.

    ive got all the bits including the o rings hopefully this weekend ill find some motivation and get it sorted but a good way to test is the old screw driver levering the casing. the tensioner is still in good nick tho apart from that, could nearly bend it back some how but na screw that new one FTW!!!


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