VT stalls when turning right.

[Gokz777]

When the fuel level is half or below the car will stall when I turn right (only turning right).

The steering wheel locks up, the brakes don't respond and the dash lights up.

When I'm pulling out of the turn, straightening the car up, it stalls. Speed and angle don't change anything.

I had the crank angle sensors replaced, and a major service done on it. This was dec 2009/jan 2010.

Could it be the fuel pump? I had it replaced a few months ago? (5 months max).

Today I turned the power mode (button) on and when I turned right it didnt stall.

Any suggestions?

[vn_v6]

swirl pot buddy, check the lines around your tank

[Gokz777]

sorry man, im not that good with cars, what do u mean swirl pot? and which lines?

EDIT: ok so my fuel pump was replaced a few months back, so its brand new and it cost me a fair bit. does this mean the mechanic should repair it free of charge or is this something that happened afterwards? iv read about the earth wire in the fuel pump, or even the pump itself...so im not sure how to check this or what to do?


thanks for the help

[graham7773]

Was it doing this before the fuel pump was done? If not take it back to the mechanic and tell him what is happening. I'm not one to point the finger but it seems that your problem is related to what the mechanic has done, or not done.

[bandit10]

sounds like your mechanic has broken the fuel return line off inside the tank when replacing the fuel pump, take it back to him and ask him to fix it!

[Rhin0o8]

Has the Fuel pump has been installed upside down or slightly angled?
Im going off where you said it happens when the fuel tank is below half...
simply put, the fuel is getting swished to one side and missing getting picked up

Confession time .... I myslef installed a fuel pump in a VS ... silly but simple mistake

[Gokz777]

Was it doing this before the fuel pump was done? If not take it back to the mechanic and tell him what is happening. I'm not one to point the finger but it seems that your problem is related to what the mechanic has done, or not done.

Its only been doing it since he put a new one in. he even told me he had never done a VT, i payed $450 for it. this was 5 months ago. I have a receipt. should he be forced to repair it?


also could someone please tell me how much it would cost to fix?

[Phoenix21]

deffantly the swirl pot its what sits around the fuel pump and holds the fuel around the pump so the car dosn't stall when taking corners

[bandit10]

i say take it back to where the pump was done

[Gokz777]

deffantly the swirl pot its what sits around the fuel pump and holds the fuel around the pump so the car dosn't stall when taking corners

I had the fuel pump replaced in november 2009, which was fine. Then in december 2009 the car started stalling when turning corners. I took the car to kmart tyre and auto - they told me it was the crank angle sensor and they replaced it. ever since then its been doing it, but lately its been worse. is this somehting i have done or something the mechanic would have done?

could someone please tell me if the mechanic should be forced to replace it.

if not what would it cost to have this repaired?

[Phoenix21]

i'd be taking it back they may have stuffed somthing or not reconnected somthing right

[Rhin0o8]

looks like the mechanic should fix it and take care of the Bill.
sounds like youve paid out alot of $$ so far to have no result

[moff_man]

Vt's don't have a swirl pot like the the vn vp vr vs etc, what they have is a mra unit which means the pump unit and fuel gauge unit are part in one with a chamber around it.

common issues with Vt's is burnt wiring in the top of the mra unit and faulty fuel gauges and pumps. depending what brand of pump used and if the whole mra was replaced or not could determine what the issue could be. my vr has just sufferd from a similar issue altho its not the same setup, it was a new pump and would only cut out going right and under hard acceleration.

[wortus]

Your going to have to find out what the mechanic actually did for example did he replace the whole unit or just the actual pump. I'd say he's going to want to pull it out and if what he did is not the problem then he's going to want to charge you.
As Moff_man said these cars don't have a swirl pot like the older series the swirl pot is integral to the pump assembly and the fuel return goes in from the top and down one of the spring loaded guides which is there to hold the bottom of the unit on the bottom of the tank. If it's a fuel cut out problem then something in the fuel pump assembly is not together right and this could be the case if he just replaced the actual pump and not the whole thing or there could be a loose wire or damaged or loose electrical connection that moves and disconnects when the car turns a certain way. Have you had the fuel pressure tested?
Best option to repair these is to buy a complete Delphi unit they are the OEM manufacturer and replace the whole thing.

[Gokz777]

Your going to have to find out what the mechanic actually did for example did he replace the whole unit or just the actual pump. I'd say he's going to want to pull it out and if what he did is not the problem then he's going to want to charge you.
As Moff_man said these cars don't have a swirl pot like the older series the swirl pot is integral to the pump assembly and the fuel return goes in from the top and down one of the spring loaded guides which is there to hold the bottom of the unit on the bottom of the tank. If it's a fuel cut out problem then something in the fuel pump assembly is not together right and this could be the case if he just replaced the actual pump and not the whole thing or there could be a loose wire or damaged or loose electrical connection that moves and disconnects when the car turns a certain way. Have you had the fuel pressure tested?
Best option to repair these is to buy a complete Delphi unit they are the OEM manufacturer and replace the whole thing.

Here, I had a problem where my fuel pump failed. I could not get any other mechanic to come out, and I couldnt get anyone to tow it.

A family friend referred me to this mechanic, saying he would not over charge and would do a fair job.


I took the car to him, here is what he charged:

Fuel Pump IFP 901 - $120.00
Fuel Filter - $20.00
Towing - $50.00
Cleaner Fuel Tank - $03.00

Fitting fuel pump - $220.00
and
Remove - $230.00
(something)

TOTAL: $450.


Now when he was going to remove it he told me he had never replaced a fuel pump for a VT.


About a few days after I got it back it would stall when turning right. I couldnt figure out what the hell was going on. And on one particular day it got really bad, so I managed to drive it down to Kmart tyre and auto and I told them that the car stalls when turning right

they insisted it was a crank angle sensor. After a new crank angle sensor, new brake pads and a major serivce ($950) later, the car kept stalling. At that time I did not have the money to have it repaired.


I have not bothered taking the car back because I wasn't sure if it was something else...but now that I think about it, its only logical that its the fuel system. The only person who has gone near it happens to be this mechanic. And the stalling issue only happened after he had put the new fuel pump in, never before.

Because of financial difficulties, being a uni student, I havent been driving it, only when I need to. I discovered once the fuel level was below half the car would stall ONLY when turning right.


How could I have damaged the anything inside the fuel system?


I've also been told that if you don't take apart the fuel assembly properly things can break, and im guessing that is what has happened and this prick has kept quiet.


Now, if my car only started stalling after he put a new fuel pump in, is it his problem to replace it?

[graham7773]

If he broke it he has to fix it. Your only problem is proving he broke it. All the best getting him to admit he did it

[Gokz777]

When the fuel level is half or below the car will stall when I turn right (only turning right).

The steering wheel locks up, the brakes don't respond and the dash lights up.

When I'm pulling out of the turn, straightening the car up, it stalls. Speed and angle don't change anything.

I had the crank angle sensors replaced, and a major service done on it. This was dec 2009/jan 2010.

Could it be the fuel pump? I had it replaced a few months ago? (5 months max).

Today I turned the power mode (button) on and when I turned right it didnt stall.

Any suggestions?

feistl
feistl is offline feistl Executive

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OK. Big Edit here.. Ive decided to post a few drawings created with paint
Yes, they are terrible but they should give you a rough idea.

Ok, Heres my masterpiece




The biggest problem ive seen when changing the fuel pump (happened to me), is as you pull the sender unit out the return line hose comes off without you noticing. So when you put it back together you dont reconnect the hose.

If you look at the above drawing, ive tried to simplify the design of the fuel tank setup.

If the car is sitting stationary (lights, parked whatever) the fuel in the main tank and mini tank will equalize as there is holes in the bottom of the mini tank.

When your going around a corner, the fuel inside this minitank is trapped... and can only slosh to the side of the minitank.... So the fuel pickup line is always sucking in fuel.

If you didnt have this minitank, when you went around a corner (with >1/3 tank of fuel) the pickup would suck in air, kill the pump and stall the car.

Now, a fuel pump is either on, or off. So its either pumping 100% capacity or its switched off. Now most of the fuel that is pumped to the engine isnt used, and comes back down the return line into the fuel tank. When your using 100% throttle you'll be using all the fuel sent, but when your idling you might only use 5% or so.

Where people run into trouble is by forgetting to reconnect the return line... So rather than the unused fuel returning to the minitank, its pumped into the normal tank.

The problem with this is, the fuel pump can pump/move fuel faster than the small drain holes let it equalize back into the minitank.

So if you forget to reconnect this line (its a rubber fuel line, similar to the external (outside the tank itself) lines), the minitank is emptied, the pump cant suck in any fuel and the engine can die/run badly.

So if you have power issues/stalling/running badly when you drop below 1/2 a tank (obviously with a full tank the fuel spills over the top of the minitank) chances are its caused by the small return line.

Hopefully this all makes sense. It is a pain in the ass to reconnect it, as its very short and sort of needs to be connected inside the tank... (you cant pull the line out of the tank and connect it to the sender unit).

[VTEZN]

hey bro i had this problem 2 and i fixed mine. 2 things could be the cause and u can fix both of them easy.
1. Bad fuel pump could cause this. after droping the tank and pulling out the sending unit u will see the pump its like a cylinder u can see verry clearly where to disconect the componest so oner uve done that take the pump out and put the new 1 in. B4 putting the whole sending unit back in the tank look under neath the unit and ull see what is called a sock its like a lttle extra filter replace it with the new sock that u get with your new pump and put everything back in and it should work.

2. If you have had this for a while then uve most likely blown the sending unit. Head to peps , repco or supercheap and ask for a replacement item. AFI do an aftermarket unit that is identical to the OEM unit dont bother with going to hollden there a rip off.

make sure you marl the lines it helps to put all back together.
dont do what i did lol replace the injectors the regulator the filter the pump twice lol i did all this unitll i found that it was the sending unit. Dont bother with a mechanic this job is easy its just comon sense.Besides $450 aint a nice price for sumthing that can be fixed at home with in 30 mins to an hour. i hope this helps you

[Gokz777]

hey bro i had this problem 2 and i fixed mine. 2 things could be the cause and u can fix both of them easy.
1. Bad fuel pump could cause this. after droping the tank and pulling out the sending unit u will see the pump its like a cylinder u can see verry clearly where to disconect the componest so oner uve done that take the pump out and put the new 1 in. B4 putting the whole sending unit back in the tank look under neath the unit and ull see what is called a sock its like a lttle extra filter replace it with the new sock that u get with your new pump and put everything back in and it should work.

2. If you have had this for a while then uve most likely blown the sending unit. Head to peps , repco or supercheap and ask for a replacement item. AFI do an aftermarket unit that is identical to the OEM unit dont bother with going to hollden there a rip off.

make sure you marl the lines it helps to put all back together.
dont do what i did lol replace the injectors the regulator the filter the pump twice lol i did all this unitll i found that it was the sending unit. Dont bother with a mechanic this job is easy its just comon sense.Besides $450 aint a nice price for sumthing that can be fixed at home with in 30 mins to an hour. i hope this helps you

Im so sorry man, never saw your reply. Um yer i still have the problem. I've spent so much money trying to get it fixed so I just gave up and kept it above half. How much is a sender unit?