vt keeps blowing fuel pump???
Gday guys i not so long ago bought this really nice vt 5.0ltr on gas but the fuel pump was blown(common thing)so i replaced it and again after about 50kms drive on petrol it blew the fuel pump again,,now i replaced the fuel ,had new filter on pump,and no fuses were blown.Does anyone have any idea or even had something similar happen..What could be the problem.??
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Maybe a faulty pump!. Did you take it back for a warranty check?
Gday has now blown 2 pumps and the second one was a goss fuel pump and they said they garentee it for 2 years and highly doupt it was the pump and will only refund it once taken back to factory and pump is pulled apart for testing(as their that sure its not a problem of theres due to their quality.the store i bought it from wont offer a refund straight away due to this so it leaves me either pulling it out again and replacing it(as it will take up to 3 weeks for the company to refund if at all)but i dont wont to spend 103$$$ again just to possably blow in a matter of minutes..as i am now thinking there must be a fault of some kind,,altho i would have thought the fuse would have blown first...it may just have been a faulty pump????but i wont know unless i buy another and see if that blows but that is an expensive trick..was kinda hoping there was a common problem somewhere else
If it's on gas the petrol fuel system may have been neglected. Have you looked at or replaced the in line petrol as well as the in tank strainer filter? Looked inside the tank for "mud" or corrosion? Blown the fuel lines through with compressed air (into cloths to minimise the risk of ignition)? Checked the injectors; visual and flow test?
The petrol pump won't run on LPG, switched via the BCM, if the petrol level is low.
gday the car had only just blown the 1st pump wen i got it and about a week after i replaced it again myself.the car ran quite well on petrol and the tank was drained and new fuel was put in it,a out of tank fuel filter was replaced also ,it was only when i changed over to petrol a few days later that i noticed it had stopped working(but totall kms was only 50kms) but had worked quite well when i did flick over to petrol.i dont know who did the gas fit but the fuel pump was also running wen she was on gas (but not running on both fuels,)however i didnt replace the strainer filter only the one that come with the pump ,it did look to be in good nick and i did replace all the fuel with new fuel..but maybe some crap came thru the lines???into the tank... ok i will pull it out and sus the fuel...it should be clean as it was only just replaced and has had half a tank in it since..if its got any mud corrosion it could only have come back thru the lines therfore thats my problem found i guess ,,thanks for the help..
Are you sure it's the pump that's faulty?
What about testing voltage at the pump connector when it's still connected. I'd be bridging the relay terminals and testing for voltage at the fuel pump connector.
Whatever you do, don't bench test the fuel pump, you/the pump will explode in a firey mess. Make sure you have home insurance.
It's unusual for a pump to fail due to bad fuel. They're designed not to fail, even when grit goes through them. The filter sock will filter out anything big enough to clog the pump mechanism.
I'm betting it's something else causing your problems.
I agree with Moose Man, there is probably a fault elsewhere. If you take out the fuel pump relay and bridge out the normally open connections in it's socket base the pump should run continuously. There may be a fault in the circuit that disconnects the fuel pump when your on gas. If the pump runs when you bridge out the relay contacts as described this is probably the problem. To bridge the connections you just need a shortlength of wite with a make spade connector crimped on each end, plug each end into the right connections and see if you can hear the pump. Chuck your old on eback in and do this test and report back?
hey there is it factory lpg with factory lpg switch or is it aftermarket gas sytem if its aftermarket id be looking at the switch or the module that changes from fuel to gas as that may have a fault and as other guys said check the voltage from the connector ,also i would be check the loom to see if theres no cuts and or tears in the wires ,and a question for all the guys out there that have v8 ,i have a supercharged v6 that runs a fuel pump controller which controls the speeds of pump ,i have a diagram here that say the s/c 6 & l2+l3 v8 sedan also so that might also be worth looking at i know you can bypass it with jumper wires that might also be worth looking at see if that is faulty ,they are located in the boot behind the carpet behind the the fuel filler cap and line so worth having a look at that if all else fails get and auto elec or just run gas hope this helps.
hey thanks guys i will try and do that tomorrow and will get back to yous with a result.
well ive done some more checks with no cuts found in the loom ,,relay works fine and was swapped over with others that are working also,checked the voltage at the relay side it was a good 12.4 volts and im still getting power to the pump checked via the plug at the back of the car on the tank,,,so now im a little baffled,maybe it was just a faulty pump,,,gas system is an aftermarket fitted one not a factory unit,,,i did your trick as suggested moose man but still no difference...any ideas????i guess i may just have to go ahead and risk another pump
Hey justin i was thinking if its aftermarket where is your switch and do you know where the box is for and is switch for lpg-petrol on box or seperate switch but i just read your other post and you say that both the pump is running while running on gas maybe the pump is burning out trying to push the fuel out , if that was me i would be getting that fixed up.
obviously the switch is just switch solenoids on and off to lpg and fuel to cut there flow, i would be putting a relay in there when its switch to gas it cuts the power to the fuel pump incase that is your problem.
gday guys ive gone ahead and installed a completely new pump assembly $230 later and completely drained all fuel cleaned out the tank and re fuelled with fresh petrol ,,connected her all up and nothing,,gas switch is working fine and i have power to the purple wire on the plug at the tank also while she is turning over i still have power to the plug,,,im now thinking that maybe the wire plug that you can unplug from the top of the pump assemble on the outside top of the tank to about were the fuel filter is were you can again unplug it must have a break in the wire somewhere there. i have power up to that point but the pump wont power up,,expensive exercise for such a little problem.Yes i will definatly have a cut out installed on the pump so it doesnt run while on gas altho ive been told by many gas fitters its pretty common,some late model fords wont run unless the fuel pump is on line(stupid dont you think)it shouldnt hurt tho as it only pumps back and forward via fuel return but hey who wonts to over use your pump if its not needed,,it would last longer...will pull tank out again tommorow and update.
Hey justin yeah check that and when you get her out check the fuel pump and see if it runs, so you could be right ,now with the fuel return it wont becos they have a valve there thats stops your fuel from flowing, unless the injectors get turned off not to shaugh just guessing here not a fan of gas had it go up in my face when i was 16 on a leaky convertor and vowed never to touch or run gas again
Don't get the fuel pump out and check if it runs... read my earlier post.
You should be doing all these voltage checks with the fuel pump plugged in. These are running condition tests, not bench tests.
Check the earth wire at the fuel pump connector for voltage when the relay terminals are jumped. It should be 0V. If it has 12v showing, you have a bad fuel pump earth.
yeah definatly will not be bench testing this unit,i thought i would try the earth side to see if maybe its has a bad earth there somewhere if that works out fine i will change the wire plug over that i just sorced from u pull it,,will be out there soon to try,will keep you posted..
ok guys heres what i have found,,i checked for fuel flow=nothing,checked earth =good,checked power=good,dropped tank again and replaced the wire plug and now it runs on fuel,,,heres my confusion i did a contanuwity (spell check)test on the plug that came out while twisting and bending it and its fine,so there cant be any loose broken wires inside,,,,the only thing i could find that may be a little sus is this on top of the tank where the top section of the whole fuel pump sender unit is where you have the 3 lines coming out you also have the section where the wiring from your car plugs into,well that part is part of the unit and cannot come out of coarse but it is a little loose so i wiggled it abit in case maybe a loose wire in the unit but i cant see that either as i checked all internal plugs on the pump/sender unit before installing it and all the plugs in there have clips to lock them in so now im really dumbfounded as to why now she runs on petrol.
Hey justin ,fingers crossed she keeps running who know with car these days ,but seems very weird hey so hopefully she keeps runnign for you if not get back on here and let us know as i will go through some of my info i have ,when you check for earth was it before or after you pulled her out again as you might of had a bad earth ,maybe check all you earth points aswell and give them a clean also maybe it was the actual connectors not making a good enough contact ,but my fingers are crossed for you that she will keep running for ya.
yeah i was ginda hoping that one of the connecters werent making a good connection as well,but all the test i did were before i pulled the tank out again just incase of something silly and as the last measure i pulled the tank out and then changed the plug over.Fingers crossed alright i would hate to have to do all that again(3 times now).Makes it worst as i dont even now when the last pump stopped working as i was driving on gas so not sure if it was just simply a rough road that maybe caused the wire connection to vibrate loose or something like that,hey the pump i took out may still very well be a goer (i dare say it is)but am unable to test it now its out and bugger pulling it out and swapping over to find out.
In the auto-electrical trade, an unpowered 'continuity test' is about as useless as a snooze button on a smoke detector.
The problem is that most multimeters will still show continuity through 1000+ ohms of wiring resistance. This much resistance will stop any electrical component working.
If you don't believe me, try it. Get a brake light globe filament and check for continuity. Now try using that filament to run a fuel pump/headlight/power window motor. It won't because it's too thin....but it still has continuity.
If you are going to test wiring, you need to check it under operating conditions - with voltage applied. Google 'voltage drop test' for a better explanation than I could give in this short space.
ok cool so what your saying is that the wiring i replaced very well still could have been my problem.
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