Gurus,
My 98 Series 1 VT is getting progressivly harder to start. It will turn over fine for 5-10 seconds and gradually start but not straight away. I've tried many things to remedy this but with no results. It turns over strongly and quickly. Starter and battery are good. Close to 300K on the clock.
I've tried:
* replacing plugs (plugs had no residue or anything to indicate excessive wear)
* replaced injectors
* replaced leads
* replaced coil packs
* checked for any bad connections
My assumptions:
* I'm assuming it's not fuel related because when it starts i runs fine. No noticeable lack of power or spluttering.
* I'm assuming it's not engine internal related as there is no excessive use of oil, it runs smoothly, no leaks or bad noises.
* I'm assuming it's not spark related because I've replaced plugs, leads and coil packs
* I'm assuming I have decent compression because there's no smoke or indication I'm burning oil on the plugs.
My questions:
* Are there sensors that could cause this. I'm getting no panel warning lights but sensors could be dirty but functional.
* What does a crank angle sensor do? Could this be an issue?
Any help would be appreciated. I know there are a few K's on the clock now but it has gone downhill quite quick. I realise that the car's not going to last forever.
Thanks.
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more details would help on wat ur problem really is but it just sounds like u need to charge ur battery
So do you mean it 'turns over' but not catching for 5-10sec, and then kind of sputtering starting?
-Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
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-Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
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CAS maybe ?
also i duno if it might be possible but maybe the fuel runs back to the tank and when u go to start it it has to fill the lines back up ??? im shore the fuel filter is a one way filter but may be busted.. ( maybe i should ask is it only when you first start or after it has sit for a while, or is it every time you start the car. )
but yea i may be wrong its just a guess.
I would go with the crank angle sensor
If I had more info I would have put it in the original post. I put everything I could think of in there but, believe me, I have no reason to leave anything out. I simply have no other ideas to what might be causing this issue which is why I'm asking for help. I guess I'm at the stage where someone can ask me a question and use my response to lead to another possible issue or a specific part.
Sorry if it came across a little abrupt. I had just got off the phone with TPG and Telstra and while TPG is slowly removing one pineapple from my ass, Telstra has another bigger one ready and waiting. no lube.
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Always when I first start the car or if it's been sitting for a while and almost all the time when I turn the engine off then a minute or two later I start it up again.
If the issue is the crank angle sensor would/should I notice it when the engine is running. ie is it a component that is only needed during startup?
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Try turning the key on just enough for the fuel pump to come on, then after you hear the fuel pump stop pumping try starting the engine. If it starts straight away when you do this you know there is a problem with the fuel system ie weak fuel pump or blocked fuel filter. There could also be a problem with your fuel pressure regulator so it would be a good idea to connect a gauge to your fuel system to see what it is doing.
It could also be a problem with your key or the part of your ignition switch that reads the code from your key. If there is a problem here your immobiliser will not let your engine start.
did he actually do a pressure test on startup or was he just trying to get rid of you because he can't be bothered diagnosing it.
I have a hard start, possibly similar to yours. It cranks and cranks and eventually fires. I am alsmost certain that it is the fuel pressure regulator, so will be replacing it soon as I have already done the fuel pump.
What I'm getting at, is that unless he installed a T piece in your fuel rail and did the test, then he basically hasn't done it.
Anyone know about how much they are or if they are hard to change? Also, A picture of one or it's location in the engine bay would help also. I have a little idea of what they look like but I'd just like someone to confirm it.
Thanks
Lewie.
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it also could be that your battery in your remote is going flat and that the bcm is not reading it maybe try getting a new keypad
Is the fuel pressure reg part of the fuel rail? Or is it a separate piece?
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Separate piece. It sits just between the fuel hose and the rails in the cupped area.
-Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
James Bovard, Civil Libertarian (1994)
-Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
P.J. O'Rourke, Civil Libertarian
-Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short Phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Ronald Reagan (1986)
thats the exact same problem that i have at times..i have done coil packs etc (see my thread below on DFI module)
i honestly think that it must be the DFI module in both our situations..
thats one thing left that i havent tried yet..
my car is duel fuel and running on gas at the moment, but its the same on both gas and fuel
let me know your thoughts guys
i also have he problem that once it starts, its idling poorly , i.e its missing only whilst idling
muneey let me know how you go, i have the same symptoms as you have for cold starts and the rough idling issue, interested how you go if you replace the DFI module![]()
i just need to know how to replace the damn thing (DFI module)..can someone point me in the right direction (VT V6)
This is how I did it on my VS, pretty sure its the same for a VT.
1. Disconnect your battery.
2. Remove the spark plug leads from the coil packs taking note of their position on each coil.
3. Undo the 2 bolts holding each coil pack in place and remove coils by pulling them upwards.
4. On one side of the coil pack there is a big wiring harness/plug with a small captive bolt in the middle, unscrew the bolt and unplug the harness.
5. Remove the 2 large bolts underneath the coil pack plate holding the coil pack to the motor.
That should be it.
Drew