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Thread: VT Overheating at idle & oil light

  1. #1

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    Default VT Overheating at idle & oil light

    Hey all!

    I've got a series 1 98' vt wagon.. factory lpg, all that jazz!
    The past few weeks, i've been having the issue of where the temp gauge is running at normal temp when cruising, although when i stay stationary for periods of time idling the car overheats, i get a severe ticking noise, although, taking off the temp comes back down.. this could be airflow i'm aware!
    I've tried the bleeding the cooling system coke bottle trick to no avail!
    Thermo fans seem to be coming on, testing them via turning the A/C on and they both start up!
    Radiator is definitely full... is there something else I should be looking for?

    Also, the oil light keeps on coming on when slowing down towards to idle.. also when idling it will flash and make it's horrid warning tone!! Taken this to a few mechanics and they seem to think it's an electrical fault. I've replaced the oil pressure sensor twice now, to no avail. Any thoughts on this?

    Thanks heaps in advance guys! Appreciate it!

    Andy

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    jetboy's Avatar
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    If not then bee lookin at a blocked raidiator , is it pressurising , if your hoses are all pumped up an hard u coulda blown a head gasket . as for your oil issue only way to check that is to chuck a gauge on it should be running at minimum 54 psi at 1850rpm hot anything under an ur in trouble. Lett us know

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    jetboy's Avatar
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    One last thing , an i hate been the one to tell you it , but sumones gotto , it sounds very much to me that ur bottom end has shit itself . Your mains are gone and are losing oil pressure at idle ,thus rendering you with low oil pressure through out the whole motor causeing ur tick and your over heating , due to the lack of oil that causes friction , in turn heat , once u drive off an bring the revs up oil pressure increases cooling down the bottom end therefore a drop in engine temp . Hoping for you thats not the case , but if your running under 54 psi as i stated then thats ur prob . get a good second hand donk an drop it in if so , its your cheapest option .

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    The engine noises are only there when you sit stationary for a certain time (until it overheats)? If it turns out the engine is OK you could have a look at the voltage going to your instruments. There may be a voltage regulator that is faulty or other than that a bad earth or transducer. Have you checked your alternator voltage?
    Also another cause of overheating when stationary might be a corroded water pump impeller.

  7. #7

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    hey all! thanks for the responses!

    i've done all the basic things like the thermostat and such jetboy! radiator after a pressure test last time came out perfect, although it's losing a minimal amount of water each day. trying to find where it's coming from is the hard bit!
    the engine runs really well majority of the time, it's just when it's stationary it runs hot with apparent low oil pressure, although in the past oil pressure tests have came back at about 56 - 60psi with the oil light still coming on! this could possibly be an electrical fault? although i've changed the switch...
    i'm considering ripping it out and putting an analogue gauge in for a more accurate reading..

    wortus, yes the noises only come when it overheats, then once cruising again, it's as if there is nothing wrong at all! i'll check the voltage of the alternator, although how could this create this issue?
    water pump was next in line to be replaced! although, i don't want to go replacing everything to find out it's not the problem!

    if i were to look for a new engine, where would be my best bet? either new or reconditioned! i'd rather not stick a secondhand engine not touched, as then i'll probably end up with the same issues again!!

    thanks alot, andy

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    pablo is offline Donating member
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    If you put in another donk, you are probably going to have the same problems as the symptoms you have re oil sounds as if it is an electrical fault. Re the overheating, you may have water pump flow problems, a quick test is to remove the top hose at the radiator and start engine for a few seconds to see what the flow is like at idle. Bloody dangerouse way, I know, hot water and all that, but if done with care, will eliminate the pump if there is a good flow.(and it'll empty the radiator pretty quick)

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    thanks for the reply pablo! regarding the oil electrical fault, where should i even begin trouble shooting? i've changed the switch / sensor on a few occasions, so where from there? is there another sensor or something i should be looking into?
    well the cooling system is the bit that worries me, i'd rather not be burnt, so it will go to a mechanic for that! save the hassle as i need the car as i just got out of surgery!!]
    thanks for the heads up! will let you know what the mechanics findings were

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    jetboy's Avatar
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    Ok oil pressure is good , so yeah could be water pump , but is it actually overheating , you could have a faulty temp sender these have been known to cause havoc .

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    Quote Originally Posted by jetboy View Post
    Ok oil pressure is good , so yeah could be water pump , but is it actually overheating , you could have a faulty temp sender these have been known to cause havoc .
    If you up for it a new waterpump is only around $50 plus sealent
    Its a easy job

    I had same problem befor......but was only overheated around once every 3 months...Put the waterpump in 2 weeks ago..Just have to do the waiting game
    I also change to lower opening thermosat new heater hose's and radiator hose's

  12. #12

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    so it's the engine! losing oil pressure..
    time for a replacement!

    time for a new car basically.. how depressing...

    thanks for the help anyway guys!

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    Sounds like it's go really low oil pressure at idle; before completely writing off the engine, run an oil flush though it, and then with that oil change replace the oil with 15/40w diesel engine oil and drive around with that oil in for 1000km to 2500kms before changing it again, this time with high quality oil... It will clean all the crud out!

    I know the Holden V8's run really low oil pressure at idle; obviously the Ecotec isn't meant to, but if the engine is sludged up it could be causing your pressure problem, and overheating due to oil starvation.
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    It only cost $130 for big end and mains bearings. $40 for a sump gasket, usual price for oil, filter etc. Its not hard to do on your own. You just need to be strong enough to lift the crossmember up by your self with one arm under the car while putting bolts back in lol. Its hard but I've done it myself before. Dont get a second hand motor cos they are all worn out after 220-250 000 k or so. Get a manual so you dont stuff it up. P.s you'll need a couple of jacks.
    Quote Originally Posted by jetboy View Post
    One last thing , an i hate been the one to tell you it , but sumones gotto , it sounds very much to me that ur bottom end has shit itself . Your mains are gone and are losing oil pressure at idle ,thus rendering you with low oil pressure through out the whole motor causeing ur tick and your over heating , due to the lack of oil that causes friction , in turn heat , once u drive off an bring the revs up oil pressure increases cooling down the bottom end therefore a drop in engine temp . Hoping for you thats not the case , but if your running under 54 psi as i stated then thats ur prob . get a good second hand donk an drop it in if so , its your cheapest option .


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