Problems lol
ok guys cars been running great till i left the cap of the radiator and boiled her dry fell like a dick lol but anyway car red lined on heat meter then shut its self off.
systympos now are
loss of heater in car
very rough idle
radator not holding water (but no leaks are found)
now i guess i have cooked the oil so i am going to change that anyother suggestions or question???
how long after it boiled dry did you put water back in? Too soon, oska is on the right track. The miss makes me think head gasket. Also there may be a cracked head or block. Any water/coolant/steam coming out of your exhaust. Any water in oil (milk coffee) or oil in radiator. More than normal condensation under the oil filler cap? all things to look at. Should have mentioned this earlier but a compression test will find a blown head gasket fairly quickly.
Last edited by graham7773; 18-12-2010 at 09:48 PM.
Too many projects.....
Fill the radiator with water, leave the cap off, start the engine and give it a bit of a rev. If it blows water out the radiator, she's stuffed.
If an engine has been cooked that badly to burn the oil, replace it with another engine.
Take it out/Take it Back
Warped head/blown head gasket.
Bye-Bye Ecotec.
Originally Posted by ari666
Mucca Mad Boys
Once you cook ecotec's there f***ed mate. How didn't you notice the temp gauge skyrocketing
Too many projects.....
Because the temp gauge goes up when the water gets hot, but then it goes back down when there is no water to read anymore
Just replaced an Ecotec this week, exactly the same problem.
Mucca Mad Boys
trueBecause the temp gauge goes up when the water gets hot, but then it goes back down when there is no water to read anymore
Just replaced an Ecotec this week, exactly the same problem.But you can actually smell it when it's red hot and cooking itself..... not that i'd know
Just a question, would that completely root the engine? Just trying to understand how it would?
Too many projects.....
A number of things really....
1) Piston rings loose there tension from being so hot
2) Pistons can grab on the bores when overheated, causing damage to the pistons and/or bores
3) Oil gets overheated/burnt and can destroy bearings
4) Head and/or block can warp (block is an extreme case, but does happen)
5) Cracked heads and/or block.
Just to name a few really. But yes, generally it results in a stuffed engine.
It's a well known and documented fact that internal combustion engines allowed to overheat will 'die' sooner or later. Suggest a rebuild or replacement engine.
so in your own opion whould u replace the engine or get a rebuild done and if i replace where should i find a dencent engine
Got Milk ???
sounds like its time for an ls1.
Take it easy...But do take it...
Do not argue with an IDIOT.
He will just drag you down to his level an beat you with experience.
Some people take me the wrong way, Like smacking up Marijunna.
Rags 2 riches!
Yer but maybe a iron headed engine would recover from more of his mistakes.
diagnostic technician...
well.....
personally i would refill cooling sytem and run car and keep topping it up as it idles
when it wont take anymore turn car off and top up
open bleed screw on top engine side of top radiator hose and top up until comes out here
tighten screw
then put cap back on
over fill the resevoir
start car
with it IDLING ROUGH give quick rev and see if it MISFIRES
if it does (shudder blah blah blah)
unplug injectors one by one and see if it has the same amount of misfire or makes it worse
if one injector makes it worse likely that cylinder has an issue with the combustion of fuel
the next step would be to pull all the plugs out and compare COMPRESSION PRESSURE
if one or two cylinders are lower than the others that BANK/SIDE head is the one requiring new gasket/head
obviously if your thinking of repairing the motor you need to watch the temp gauge as you refill the system to make sure it doesnt over heat again...
if it goes to the red at idle then turn it off and fill with the bleed screw open then try again from the start
repeat ^ that bit 2 or 3 times until stops instantly overheating (an air pocket at sensor normally) if still instant overheats likely new engine as heat getting into coolant at no 2 cylinder gasket
to coolant jacket at sensor feed in head (my guess)
hope this helps....
note if engine oil is milky likely head gaskets skip to a compression check
if no misfire after refilling cooling system likely temp sensor reading was affecting fuel mixture BUT would need to drive and see if over heats and then starts misfiring liekly head warped
funny....exact same problem inlaws had with VS comodore....loose Radiator cap..overheated but maybe not as bad....told me to look at it....
After a trip to mechanic..the report was....water pressure test ok...compression down ( abit) on 1 cylinder... new plugs and leads...
( engine has over 200000Ks, may have been worn earlier.?)
After they drove it home from mechanic...I noticed the oil and filter was still old..? So I changed both with new..
It idled a bit rough, but Ive seen worse...It drove wonderfully, smooth and powerful.. 20Kmh-120Kmh no problems at all..
Only when you stopped at lights etc..it idled rough until you drove off again...!
I checked -Water temp excellent no loss...oil good no smoke...no error codes...coil packs/dfi all good...(tested)
I noticed 1 injector doesnt seem to respond to cylinder3 when disconnected..? the other 5 do....
I'm hoping for a blocked injector.......Im driving it for a week with injector cleaner in the tank and ultra98 fuel..to see if it clears, if not
I will try new injectors...
Do you think I will have any luck...or Am I on the wrong track guys....??? thnx for any help..
I disconnected the injector #3 and drove car to check....ran like shit..lol so the injector must be ok...but still doesnt respond during idle......maybe thats the way it is..?
Keeping eye on water bubbles in radiator...a couple bubbles every now and then.....( although mechanics pressure tested it and checked OK )...maybe a slight faulty head gasket..??..drove car 100Km today...water temp ok, no overflow leaks...still driving and testing....BFN.
Last edited by denholden; 01-03-2011 at 05:21 PM.
LATER.......
Got the heads off....2 dead cylinders,..4 & 3 suspect faulty valves..leaking air under pressure from compressed air test..
Quicksilver Club :)
Put it on a tray truck and take it to a mechanic, one of my mates tried to fix a similar problem, ####ed his eotec, now runing an alloytec
Special thanks to B-Roca for my new sig
We'll see.......lol
dismantled and checked heads, alls looking ok so far...valve regrind,no cracks, no warp.. waiting on gasket set..
will reassemble this week hopefully ...and test, if anything it wont be worse...i hope for an improvement at loaded Idle..and no leaks...cheers all..
I'll post my results soon....
Car all assembled this weekend, Problem fixed...runs well now, no rough idle in drive.
Obviously diagnosis was correct..faulty valves.. had the heads valves re-seated/shimmed/guides..
total cost...( heads reco'd, new injectors, gaskets, a few special tools, sealants,oil, some new bolts.. roughly $900 ) Labor was mine..lol
That was a cheap(lucky) fix. Well worth the effort.
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