whats the go with this

[chevy_big_block_bro]

whats the go, do these things work or are they a scam.

is it worth $12 to see
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Intake-mod-Ch...QQcmdZViewItem

[vy_pete05]

ive considered buying from that same seller (actually one of my favourites on ebay) great advice and customer service, a mate of mine bought from him and is pleased, im probably going to, not sure if i can yet though, checking with a few specs on my car first...let me know if you decide to and how you go mate

[chevy_big_block_bro]

yea, just payed for it, if its just a 4 cent resistor ill make a killing with my mates

[vy_pete05]

so what, you are paying $12 for the actual hardware aye...be sure to keep me posted on the improvement (if any)...cheeerz mate

[holden#1]

just brought one... waiting for it to arrive... will retest after fitting with g tech and post results...

[vy_pete05]

thanx holden#1, your a champ, much appreciated, will await results of improvements

[chevy_big_block_bro]

its usualy $9 for instructions and he bumped $3 on for the resistor but apparently it clips on and no cutting or soldering required so it must be a little high tech

[chevy_big_block_bro]

ive got a G tech Pro SS, i haven't measured my new VT yet but ill have to before i get the mod kit to see if there are any real improvments

[holden#1]

would be interested to see your time anyway.

[Logzy]

Dont waste your money on some rip off merchant making $11.90 profit from you on ebay!!!

Buy the resistor from jaycar for about $0.10 and plug it in.

There used to be a website that showed how to do it and it had a heap of other FREE LS1 mods, not $12 ones.!!

Basically you just unplug the plug from the original temp sensor on the air box and plug the resistor into it. (Bend the legs on the resistor and plug in to the plug), a bit of tape to hold it in place and thats it.

All the original temp sensor did is basically vary the resistance through the wire as the temp changed so by replacing the sensor with the resistor you are fixing the resistance so it doesnt vary by temprature. ie. the ECU thinks the air temp is x, all the time.
(I remember this from reading it as it was just this easy)

As for his reprogramming, all that is is a case of resetting the ecu by pulling the relevant fuse. Do it when the engine is warm.
Turn ignition on (but do not start engine), and pull the ecu fuse. After about 10 seconds or so the dash will beep, turn ignition off, replace fuse, start engine, idle in park for 3-5 min and then idle in drive for 3-5 min so the ECU can relearn the idle.
(I have done this reset a couple of times on my VXII, its a good reset to clear the ECU)

That is it.!!!!!...Simple Eh...

[AirStrike]

AAAAHAHAHAHAHA!!! Hope you all have lots of cash for fuel........all it does is keep the voltage at a constant level in relation to a huge amount of cold air (basic idea) and adds more fuel to the mix making it run rich...............
Get a dyno run with out it and with it and check the AFR's, they will be all over the joint with the resistor..............
How could you be suckered in.........
AirStrike

[vy_pete05]

great advice there LOGZY...thanx very much for that...please advise of contact details for this resistor you speak of, do you know how much it improves the efficiency/performance of the engine??

[DJ Majah]

Ugh, what a tosser.

'to change the factory settings that is made according to environmental regulations. This means that your car could be going a lot faster and could get more power if you replace the ECU factory settings.'

'it will take in more air, and then add more fuel (around 0.5L per 100 km as tested on 1.8L engine)'

'Not only do you receive this performance mod mentioned above, you also receive the following information without any extra charges :
...
(Note to Convexgroup, this is new package and does not include any of your work as agreed)'

[vy_pete05]

so who is the tosser then??

[s0sage]

make sure you ask about their incredible once in a lifetime offer if you use your credit card to purchase withing the next 45minutes ....

i hear they're some fine looking steak knives ...

tch tch tch

[slowr8]

plaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaceeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeeeeeeebo


hehehehe

like saying "my car goes sooo much harder now le since i put the big 19inch dump pipe on the zorst on it even revs higher!!!!!!" (obviously while it looks like your laying down and lookin like your asleep....)

[Shivaga]

lol, i just love the really terrible picture. like, did they actually PAY someont to make that. looks like it was done by an 8yr old in a sweatshop!!!

[Secki]

what a flog off

[holden#1]

well boys, i may be a sucker, but for curiositys sakes i will install and retest my 1/4 mile in same place, same conditions. if it is shi*, it is shi*, if i show better figures great. as for driveability?????
just Muckin' around in any case, what the hell give it a go....
it's probably a bit like experimenting with running your car on injector cleaner!!!!!!!
it's only a $1000 engine....

[chevy_big_block_bro]

Dont waste your money on some rip off merchant making $11.90 profit from you on ebay!!!

Buy the resistor from jaycar for about $0.10 and plug it in.

There used to be a website that showed how to do it and it had a heap of other FREE LS1 mods, not $12 ones.!!

Basically you just unplug the plug from the original temp sensor on the air box and plug the resistor into it. (Bend the legs on the resistor and plug in to the plug), a bit of tape to hold it in place and thats it.

All the original temp sensor did is basically vary the resistance through the wire as the temp changed so by replacing the sensor with the resistor you are fixing the resistance so it doesnt vary by temprature. ie. the ECU thinks the air temp is x, all the time.
(I remember this from reading it as it was just this easy)

As for his reprogramming, all that is is a case of resetting the ecu by pulling the relevant fuse. Do it when the engine is warm.
Turn ignition on (but do not start engine), and pull the ecu fuse. After about 10 seconds or so the dash will beep, turn ignition off, replace fuse, start engine, idle in park for 3-5 min and then idle in drive for 3-5 min so the ECU can relearn the idle.
(I have done this reset a couple of times on my VXII, its a good reset to clear the ECU)

That is it.!!!!!...Simple Eh...

Idle in drive?
how do you do that with a 5 speed or dont u need to do it because the gearbox has no sensors

[chevy_big_block_bro]

well boys, i may be a sucker, but for curiositys sakes i will install and retest my 1/4 mile in same place, same conditions. if it is shi*, it is shi*, if i show better figures great. as for driveability?????
just Muckin' around in any case, what the hell give it a go....
it's probably a bit like experimenting with running your car on injector cleaner!!!!!!!
it's only a $1000 engine....

Good to turn up to a drag, pop the bonnet and add the resistor.
Might only shave a few hundreds of a second but the quicker the better

[OLS108]

As for his reprogramming, all that is is a case of resetting the ecu by pulling the relevant fuse. Do it when the engine is warm.
Turn ignition on (but do not start engine), and pull the ecu fuse. After about 10 seconds or so the dash will beep, turn ignition off, replace fuse, start engine, idle in park for 3-5 min and then idle in drive for 3-5 min so the ECU can relearn the idle.
(I have done this reset a couple of times on my VXII, its a good reset to clear the ECU)

That is it.!!!!!...Simple Eh...

Mate the PCM reset only works with an LS1 engine/PCM because only the LS1 has the learn idel procedure that robs untuned LS1's of so much power.
So guys unless you have an LS1 dont bother with the above info