Well ive had some major issues with this car, the head gasket went 5 months ago, then a month later i had an electrical issue, which made me replace 2 alternators 2 batteries, eventually was told it was the wiring harness.. i got the car back after holden had it for 2 months, rarely drive it as a have a work car,
went down to the shop just then, on way home revs dropped a bit then 200m down the road engine died, pulled over, started the car drove 20m then it died again, the temp light came on and temp was sitting 3/4 of way up, managed to start the car and get home, then the fans stayed on after the car was off (fan relay?)
any ideas? would the fan relay cause the car to drop out? im ####in stumped yet again
also since getting the car back, its not starting properly, takes a few chugs before it turns over, then sometimes turns over and stalls straight away,
Its ment to stay on if its way too hot.. Theres a certain temp it will switch on and stay on till cool's a bit..
As for not starting after overheating i'd be a bit worry'd, 'may' have cooked it and done damage..
4mins they should stay on with ignition off, if gets above 117 deg
it does start now, but really chugs before it gets going , was doing this before but not as bad? if thats any help
not sure on the chugging side of it...
but if its overheating loosing water and running like a pig i'd be looking at the gaskets, LIM or head..
I would be looking for another engine, before it dies completely. Were the heads recoe'd 5 months ago? Machined etc? Or just cleaned and replaced with new gaskets? Sounds like the second option to me. And your temp sensor seems not to be doing its job either. Genuine 3/4 temp is not enough to stall your car. I am agreeing with "wanna". You may have cooked it.
had the same problem with the fans
it's a faulty relay
$10 fix but cost a $100 battery
Starting problems could be CAS or ingntion coil. If it has weak or erratic spark then it will be rich A/F.
muttley383
whats the best way to check if the gaskets gone again? with the radiator cap do i have to block the feed from the coolant resovior to check it?
ok so i left the car over night, just went to start it, started first time, drove it around the block, temp stuck on C, few minutes later finally moved off C and worked its way up to the red, checked the engine it didnt seem overly hot,
take it back to whoever did the heads and tell them... they should have the shit to test it to see if its leaking and where from......
but i wouldnt let it get too hot thou or ya will do bad damage.. 3/4 is tooooo hot,
also ive had a near new thermostat that has been dodgy so still may be that
Just a thought, are you running decent quality coolant in your cooling system? As you probably know, water boils at 100c and the pressure cap takes that up to about 108c. Your cooling system is designed to run as hot as 130c and if the coolant is not up to the correct (50%) mix the system will just boil the water out of the overflow bottle and suck air back in, same as if you had a blown head gasket. There a few good anti freeze/anti boil coolants but for price and longevity, Nulon is one of the best. It takes your boiling point to 132c @ 50% mix with soft or demineralised water. Using straight tap water is not recommended as it reduces the protective qualities of any coolant.
the dudes should have a device that bolts to the radiator cap neck that looks like a big thermomter that will show if it's got a blown HG