Removing Rotore

[Pookie]

Doing a pad rotor change and not having any luck on getting the rotors off (front)

Any tips would be great

Want to try save the rotors if possible

Also anytips on doing the rears


Cheers

[accentstencil]

You only need to remove the 2 big bolts that hold the calliper on and the the rotors will slide off.
Same with the rear but release the handbrake.

[Pookie]

Rotors wont slide off even tapped the rotors (with a rag on the rotor) from behind and it still wont budge


I thought they should just slide off

Do they slide off over the wheel bolts of do i need to remove them as well

[VK SL 3800]

No they are supposed to slide of the wheel studs, they are a fairly tight fit around the middle part of the hub, but as they are rarely removed they end up getting rusted on or seized. soak them with some wd40 or crc ect to help free them up.

[Pookie]

No they are supposed to slide of the wheel studs, they are a fairly tight fit around the middle part of the hub, but as they are rarely removed they end up getting rusted on or seized. soak them with some wd40 or crc ect to help free them up.

Ive tried that WD40 and CRC 5-56

Its getting dark and i hope those dark clouds dont have rain in them else ill be getting wet

[accentstencil]

The rotors must be rusted on and will require some bashing, use wood to protect the surface.

[Sabbath']

Get a long screwdriver, and put it where the caliper bolts up, between the rotor and the bracket and lever against the rotor. Hard to explain, but it works. Move the rotor around bit by bit and it will break the tension.

[Pookie]

Get a long screwdriver, and put it where the caliper bolts up, between the rotor and the bracket and lever against the rotor. Hard to explain, but it works. Move the rotor around bit by bit and it will break the tension.

Do you mean put the caliper bracket back on

[Pookie]

Get a long screwdriver, and put it where the caliper bolts up, between the rotor and the bracket and lever against the rotor. Hard to explain, but it works. Move the rotor around bit by bit and it will break the tension.

Still no luck think these rotors are welded on

[tdirago]

i doubt it. how about you take a picture of what you have done so far so we can give you great insight/advice

[Pookie]

i doubt it. how about you take a picture of what you have done so far so we can give you great insight/advice

Everything is off except for Rotor

I removed Pads,Caliper,Caliper Bracket

Too dark to take pic soaked again in 5-56 and took left front off and soaked in 5-56 over night
Left side hub doesnt look like its got a heap least rust,grime on it so hope it wont be as bad

Hope i can get it done in the morn else Ma wont be happy being late for Mothers Day Lunch

Any other ideas would be great

Thank for the tips so far been awesome

[Brett_jjj]

See if you can get a car jack in behind it there somewhere and wind it up a bit to push the disc off,but make sure you push it a bit on one side,then turn the disc a bit and push it again etc,just keep repeating this until it comes loose...

[Pookie]

See if you can get a car jack in behind it there somewhere and wind it up a bit to push the disc off,but make sure you push it a bit on one side,then turn the disc a bit and push it again etc,just keep repeating this until it comes loose...

Good idea but not sure what i could put the other side of the jack up against

[Brett_jjj]

Good idea but not sure what i could put the other side of the jack up against

A block of wood thats resting up against the body/chassis..

[slow vs]

i replaced my rotors not long ago took alot of bashing to get the old ones off .

why save them if your replacing them anyway?

[Reaper]

Hitting them from the rear will make matters worse as you will #### the rotor to one side and jam it on the hub. I hit it (gently) around it's circumference perpendicular to which way you want it to go (Ie hit it towards the centre of the hub) whilst pulling it towards you with your other hand. It gradually comes off - spin the hub slightly between hits. Some of them can be seized on and are quite difficult to remove.

Reaper

[Pookie]

i replaced my rotors not long ago took alot of bashing to get the old ones off .

why save them if your replacing them anyway?

I want to save them and get them machined so when i need rotors next time ive got em

[Brett_jjj]

I wouldnt bother with machined rotors,they are never as good as new ones,and they give crook brake pedal "feel",and with the cheap price of new brake rotors these days,its just not worth getting them machined...

[VZ_SS]

Just flog the shit out of them while turning them, use a proper hammer and dont be scared about breaking anything. They might be tight, but not that tight. If that still doesnt work, get your sister to hit it

[db_notso]

spray crc IN from the BACK of the rotor AND around the studs on outside
then "shock" the rotor with a metal hammer at the base of the studs where your wheel bolts up against

hold the outside edge of the rotor and hammer where the wheel sits on while pulling HARD on the rotor

if this doesnt work spray more crc or wd40 and leave for ten minutes then retry

if still no love get a piece of soft timber put it flat against the inside face of the rotor and hit it as hard as you can then turn the rotor 180 degrees and hit it again
repeat this turn and hit and it will come off if all else fails

just remember any dints on the mating surface where the pad touches the rotor will affect braking....

to stop it happening again wire brush where the rotor sits on AND sand where the inside of the rotor sits on the wheel bearing
then use any type of lube VERY SPARINGLY and coat the mating surfaces then refit the rotor being careful not to get any lubricant onto the brake pads as it will soak in and reduce efficiency and lifetime of the pads...

good luck

[NeddyBear]

We use a product at work that freezes the rusted parts and then when hit with a hammer the normally just snap apart, its a wonderful product and can also be used in an emergency to cool down a warm beer.
Loctite Freeze & Release instantly freezes seized and rusted bolts, nuts, studs down to -45°F (-43°C). This ultra shock-freeze effect causes microscopic cracks in the layer of rust, allowing the penetrating oil to wick directly into the rust by capillary action. The assembly can be easily dismantled after allowing only 1-2 minutes penetration time.

If you can get this stuf into the affected joins it will work.

[Pookie]

well i just hit it and knocked one of the studs into the hub.
and still can't get the thing off
now what do i do? Please help?????

[edals]

Not Sure if your rotors have them, But have a Look for some threaded holes in the middle, If you have them you can use the Calliper bolts & Screw them into the Rotor, and then it will push against the Hub then start pushing the rotor off, Its what i did in the old VR, worked in a few mins VS the 2 hours i spent hitting the rotors lol

[Sabbath']

Do you mean put the caliper bracket back on

This is a picture with the rotor removed. At the top left of the hub there is the bracket where the caliper bolted up to. With the caliper removed, place a long screwdriver, bar, whatever you can fit behind there so that when you pull the lever towards yourself, the effect is a prying motion on rotor. We do this at work all the time and it works near on every time.

[Reaper]

well i just hit it and knocked one of the studs into the hub.
and still can't get the thing off
now what do i do? Please help?????

WTF??? as if that would ever work .... Just put the stud back. If you damaged the thread (look before you put it back) then head down to your car parts supplier and buy a new one - they are readily available.

Read my post above.

Reaper