I have a problem where everytime i drive for abit and pull up for anight or two my battery is dead flat , Im wondering if my sony 1200 watt subs and 700 amp is draining them ? can anyone help me with why this is happening or has it happended to you and what youv done to prevent it
cheers damo
get a new battery lol
buy yourself a yellowtop deep cycle optima battery. I had to get one of these when i had big sound in my old vp commodore cost me 600 from century battery at kunda park sunshine coast solve all your problems
compasitor for the sound system, or you could check to see if you alternator is doing its job (most likely the brushes)
just bought a new battery last week so up not really up to buying a new one just yet,
cheers juice1929 how much is this capacitor going to cost me? and what chances of it could be the alternator ?
I've read on here somewhere, that some amps, although installed correctly, they don't turn off when you turn the car off. Or, they may turn off initially, but when you lock your car, they power back up, there was a thread on here not along ago, should still be on the first page of the VT-VX section![]()
I take it when you say pull up for a night, your not playing music whilst the car is off, because then the answer is a bit more obvious haha :P
Hope this helps![]()
okay thankyou heaps , and to anwser your question no i do not leave my music playing , iv bought a new battery aweek ago , new terminals , iv tryed everything there is to it , my only guess is that the amp is staying on wilst the car is off but i have no idea how to fix the problem if it is that?
There will be some lights on the amp somewhere that will tell you if its on or not.
If you want to check if its the amp, drive around playing music, then when you get home check the voltage of the battery, than pull the amp fuses, then in the morning check the voltage again. If there is any difference than its not the amp.
-Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
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thanks heaps mate , should help me out a little though im not to sure if it has lighting on it , i will look tomororw night and get back to you . Might be a case of taking it to a auto electrician or audio shop ..
Nah try pulling the fuses first, just remember to disconnect the battery before refitting them.
Also just for the hell f it, check the voltage with the car on (but stereo off), and with the car off. Should be about 14.4v and about 12.4v
-Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
James Bovard, Civil Libertarian (1994)
-Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
P.J. O'Rourke, Civil Libertarian
-Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short Phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Ronald Reagan (1986)
um how bout finding out if ur alternator is keeping charge? ur regulator might b on its way out which is a common thing. as u havent got a massive system so a standard battery and standard alternator should run them fine.
DONT use a capacitor big waste of time and money as they dont work unless ur pulling massive power and have well over 10 farads cap. Do the "Big 3" wiring up grade on ur ground and u should b fine.
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I had 2 kicker cvr's in my car once, 750.1 amp to match. I had the same problem that you do. Turns out the alternator had eaten itself.
Your alternator might be on its way out, when mine had fully died, the car was running on the battery alone. Got kinda scary cause I'd be sitting at the light, and the revs would start bounceing, then it would die. A good test is to turn the indicator on, and see if the revs bounce.
But this was in a completely different car, so i'm probably WAYY off
your stereo is pretty small so i would be looking into problems with your alternator, get a multi meter and stick it on the battery terminals with the car running, anywhere between 13.9 - 14.1 is good, any lower you could heading for some troubles, also whats the model of your amp
thanks for all the help , the amp is a sony explode , no lighting on it to tell me if things are staying on ect, but iv been told by alot of people run a re-lay audio shops do them , casuing the amp to disconnect after the car is off ? i did also the flicker test the car isnt boucing or high revs so i assume it isnt the altinatoir , running out of options and im hoping this ree-lay will help it alot
Go to a battery shop they should have a tester that will determine whether or not the alternator is charging under load. The flicker test won't tell you much if anything. The battery shop might even be nice enough to do it for free.
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
cheers for that , i might go down and look into it tomorrow , know the pricing range an alternator could be ? vt commodore 99 series 2
had a similiar problem... easiest way i found to get around that is to do what we did and install a switch in between the bat and the amps, and make sure its insulated... works a treat in mine. then all ya do is turn it on when you want max sound.
buy urself a multimeter u can do this urself easily enough as theres plenty of info how 2 do it and im sure the guys will also help u but if ur amps have been installed correctly u should b able 2 put ur DMM on it and see if its pulling any current. if its not then dont bother putting a switch or relay in line its a waste of time and money as it'll b ur regulator that need replacing not the whole alternator.
generally u can go through 2-3 regulators b4 the alternator packs it in.
Check out my ride in progress.... 98 VT V6, V8 Supercar kittedDaily toy.... 92 VP Calais 5L
********4 Sale- 2 x 7' Pool Tables********
so u bought a new battrey
that shouldnt be the problem
if it is take the ####er back and get a new one
when your cars running hit your alternator with sumthing solid in a clockwise direction if the engine changes sound bang shes on her way![]()