does anyone know how to change the rear springs of a vt?

[DmanVT]

Hello all, just a question i have on the rear springs. I want to get pedders touring springs to put in my vt and i was just wondering does anyone have exact steps on how to do this? i've looked around and i know a rough idea on what to do but can anyone help with detailed instructions on the subject? please help me :/
thanks

[kcpwns]

if your not sure a professional would probably be a better choice...
changing springs isnt an easy task mate...plus if your lowering it a bit you will
need a camber kit anyways..

[Killr6]

you dont "need" a camber kit, just helps keep your tyre tread longer.

here mate How to change your suspension/lower your live axle commodore

but as said go to a pro.

[acarmody]

you dont "need" a camber kit, just helps keep your tyre tread longer.

here mate How to change your suspension/lower your live axle commodore

but as said go to a pro.

I think the IRS setup in the OPs VT will be a little different to a Live Axel setup.

[kcpwns]

you dont "need" a camber kit, just helps keep your tyre tread longer.

here mate How to change your suspension/lower your live axle commodore

but as said go to a pro.

my bad :P
I recommend it anyway...who likes forking out for rubber all the time lol

[DmanVT]

i asked my local mechanic, and he said its not that hard at all, and the guy at Pedders said i might as well save money doing it myself and yer i think it is a different setup to live axel.

they all just said be careful with the compressed spring but apart from that its very simple, but do you think it isnt quite that simple? sorry to bother you all :/ but thanks for the comments guys

[DmanVT]

and yes that is true, but im most probably putting load assist airbags to bring back close to the original height and aren't camber kits designed for the 0-5 degree angle change from wear? but like i said im not exactly sure so thats why im asking

[kcpwns]

i dunno mate lol...
my mates dad is a front end specialist and he did my missus car and recommended a camber kit..
she went superlows not sure if that is relevant?
but if a pro recommends it thats enough for me

[DmanVT]

haha true ey? :P but i guess il have a look at how its wearing after i put them in, at pedders they want like 300 for the bags and springs so i thought i might save the 300 and get assistance off my next door neighbor ( mechanic ) if i need help from what they say its not that hard but then again . . .. thats why they are the mechanics and im the driver :P

[Killr6]

thats the only "how to" on the setup i could find lol.

they all recommend a camber kit, in the long run it saves you money

[DmanVT]

yer thats true :P well for starters i probably wont ill just get them in then save for a camber kit and chuck that in when i say save i am refering to me being 17 and actually needing to save hahaha

[kcpwns]

yeah true...i suppose at the end of the day it is up to you...
plus if you get it done by a pro you get the reassurance that nothing..
well nothing should go wrong and if it does..sue their ass!

[DmanVT]

haha yer thats true as well :P ill have a chat to pedders and see what they reckon and tips if i do it myself etc and then weigh up the possibilities thanks heaps for the comments

[acarmody]

For the camber kit I think (not 100% on this) you need some special press machine/tool or something.

As for fitting VT rear springs. With car on ground, attack spring compressors, raise car up, remove tyre, undo bottom shock bolt, if spring can't be removed as is than tighten the compressors until you can just get it out, reverse to install new ones.

[Jesterarts]

Tools you will need:

Trolley jack (can use regular jack but this will make the process more of a pain in the arse.)
Body stands (Can to it without them, but once again, pain in the bum.)
Spring compressors (Once again, doable without then but BIG pain in the arse and you're going to need a mate)
Socket set
WD40
4 bricks

Step 1:
Park the car on level, solid ground.

Step 2:
Bricks behind and infront of front wheels

Step 3:
Take the handbrake off. Make sure you do this.

Step 4:
Start jacking the car until the wheels are almost of the ground but still touching. If you have a trolley jack, I find the metal diff mount is a good spot. NOT UNDER THE DIFF, but the black hout are the rear of the diff. If you only have your single jack the jack one side. For the purpose of this I will write it up like we're using a trolley jack.

Step 5:
Loosen nuts on the wheel.

Step 6:
Keep jacking until wheel are off the gound and you can fit the body stand under. Put them where the usual jacking point is on the car. (If you don't have body stands and are using a trolley jack use put something under the car so it doesn't drop as you're going to be man handling it a bit later on. If you are using a regular jack, just put the wheel under the car so if it drops, it drops on the wheel. Using the spare is probably a good idea).

Step 7:
Take the wheel off

Step 8:
Undo the lower shock bolt. If it's being a bastard, WD40 it, take 5min and try again. If you're still struggling, you CAN unto the top shock nut and drop the shock, but the danger there is that if the car drops the chances of damaging the shock and body are high.

Step 9:
Use the spring compressors on the rear spring. One compressor either side of the spring and tighten them evenly. You can apply pressure on the control arm to try and release the spring. I managed to get out FE2 springs in the past without compressors but it was my mate pushing down on the arm and a fair bit of swearing. Which compressors, its time consuming but the spring will come out nice and easy.

Step 10:
Once you've removed the old springs, put the new ones in. Changes are the new lowered springs will go in without the need for compressors.

Step 11:
Bolt the shocks back on

Step 12:
Wheels back on

Step 13:
Remove the body stands and drop the car. If you where using a regular jack and only did one side at a time, back to step 4 for the other side.

Step 14:
Make sure everything is nice and tight, shock bolts, wheel nuts, etc.

Step 15:
Step back and have colourbond moment.

Step 16:
Remember to remove those bricks before you decided to go for a test drive.

In a VT you've probably want to look into a camber kit down the track. VT cambe is mental when lowered. This is something you will need a suspension place to do as unless you know how to properly adjust the kit, it's a waste of time.

[acarmody]

I had serious trouble with my lower shock bolt last time, I just got my breaker bar, and put the factory jack under the end of it and raised the jack, that sure loosened it. On a side note, a rattle gun raises a jack really fast, LOL.

Question Jesterarts, I've heard its easier if you can get the compressors on the springs with the car still on the tyres as it means the springs are already compressed, your thoughts?

[Jesterarts]

Yep, if you can get the compressors on before lifting the car then it would be easier down the track as you would prevent the spring from decompressing in the first place.

Though good luck with that. I find springs compressor enough of a pest with the wheel off! Maybe doable if you have a pit or ramps, but I can't see this happening with the car just sitting on the ground.

Also, you want to avoid being too forcefull with the lower shock bolt. If you break it or screw the thread in the cast component, your will be in a WORLD of pain.

If the bolt doesn't want to let go, the upper nut is a piece of piss to get undone and you just need to be more careful to ensure you don't drop the car as the chases of damaging the shock or shock mount are greater dropping from the top than if you unbolt it at the bottom.

[DmanVT]

haha im loving the colourbond moment :P haha and yer thats what i had in mind basically those steps just wanted to clarify so thankyou heaps and heaps for that!! :P and i imagine a rattle gun would lift a jack quite fast :P haha thanks heaps

[acarmody]

Yep, if you can get the compressors on before lifting the car then it would be easier down the track as you would prevent the spring from decompressing in the first place.

Though good luck with that. I find springs compressor enough of a pest with the wheel off! Maybe doable if you have a pit or ramps, but I can't see this happening with the car just sitting on the ground.

Also, you want to avoid being too forcefull with the lower shock bolt. If you break it or screw the thread in the cast component, your will be in a WORLD of pain.

If the bolt doesn't want to let go, the upper nut is a piece of piss to get undone and you just need to be more careful to ensure you don't drop the car as the chases of damaging the shock or shock mount are greater dropping from the top than if you unbolt it at the bottom.

Well it was only my parents car anyway, LOL.

Damn thing was seized pretty good.

haha im loving the colourbond moment :P haha and yer thats what i had in mind basically those steps just wanted to clarify so thankyou heaps and heaps for that!! :P and i imagine a rattle gun would lift a jack quite fast :P haha thanks heaps

Yep, for really f'ing lazy people like me.

[DmanVT]

haha agreed :P well the same principal applies when trying to test start a whipper snipper motor with a drill on the magneto :P

[acarmody]

haha agreed :P well the same principal applies when trying to test start a whipper snipper motor with a drill on the magneto :P

HAHA.
Makes me wonder if you could start an old carby car with a big air hammer on the harmonic balancer bolt?

[DmanVT]

haha a big hammer and a quick reaction time to get out of there when it goes haha

[ucwepn]

Holden recommend the 2 point camber kit as the 4 point causes handling unstabilities at highway speeds. VT's have natural wear on the insides of the rear tyres 2 point/4 point kit allows this to be corrected.

[acarmody]

Unstable at highway speeds? Since when? Maybe at 200km/h a Commodore Boat may not be the most stable thing around, but for 110km/h it will be fine.