vt stopping after idling for a few seconds

[daze]

hey guys... Here's a tricky one, i have a vt commodore and i replaced the battery and the fuel pump and it still has an issue. It'll start and idle for about 5 seconds max if im lucky then will completely die... Everytime i start it it will do it.... Any ideas on what it could be i really have no idea what it could be

[SirNemesis]

Does it make any difference if you apply throttle?

[daze]

yeah she stall's straight away any time we do it

[SirNemesis]

Sounds alot like a fuel issue to me.

[daze]

any ideas on where or what the main cause could be????

[acarmody]

Busted key reader maybe? Very cheap and easy to fix yourself.

[DeiCide]

I had to replace my fuel pump about a month ago, mate put the return hose and breather the wrong way around, caused the car to randomly stall. Fixed that then was really rough idle, turned out a hose connected to the throttle body (under plenum) came undone, reconnected it and everything was back to normal. Not sure if thats your problem but pays just to check.

[304runner]

Id almost say its a Fuel issue. Weather its a bad connection on the fuel pump or no fuel. Whats the reading on your gauge? If its low and you think it might normally start at that level still put $5 in and give it another shot. Sometimes the sender can shit the tin and give a false reading.

[db_notso]

not nescecarily a fuel issue.... but sounds like an air/fuel mix issue

for ANY no start issue on ANY engine follow the easy method
suck, squeeze, bang, blow. the basics an engine needs to run..
check it has all of these parts working correctly to find the cause
these have sections on modern engines for anyone who cares....

signal to start ok? (immobiliser starter ecu power and earth etc)
voltage high enough to stay cranking? (battery altenator or starter or siezed motor)
air getting in? (blocked intake)
air in being measured correctly?(afm or map sensor or intake leak)
fuel? (sender failure or pump or fuel pressure reg)
fuel pressure ok? (check at rail)
fuel injector signals ok? (noid light check and or cas)
injectors ok? (leaking or blocked)
compression? (also shows if timing is out mechanically/internally)
spark? (check coils leads plugs)
exhaust unblocked? (blocked cat or dpf)
exhaust air being measured? (02 sensors)
ignition on signal maintained? (relays ecu's ignition switchs key readers etc)

but anyways im done blabbering

FOR YOUR CAR THIS TRANSLATES TO
as it starts AND RUNS FOR 5 SECONDS then stalls likely immobiliser is not stalling it as it would just not start at all and just crank....and engine light flashes while cranking????? from memory~! key reader is part of the immobiliser signal circuit......

recomend a code check for starters..........(look it up in search up there^^^^)
note: (afm doesnt always set code if dead OR WET WITH WATER/OIL)

i would check the fuel tank isnt empty... put ten litres in and retry... if works sender is dead or your blind

if started AFTER you replaced pump then skip this one

if this issue was there BEFORE you replaced the fuel pump
then maybe air flow meter is incorrect reading to engine control module
(as in when you said "you apply accelerator it stalls straight away" this is a cause OR fuel pressure)

check fuel pressure would be my next check.... as maybe there is a blockage or regulator dead or pressure too high OR too low (incorrect hose connections OR incorrect fuel pump requiring adjustable fuel pressure regulator)
(as in did replacing the pump fix the issue you replaced it for or cause this one?)

if afm and fuel pressure and no codes is all ok

check for a vacum leak AFTER the AIR flow METER hoses on inlet manifold etc (bit of carby spray around them all will show you IF there is a vacum leak)

then maybe spark cutting out after a few cycles (normally just straight out die but NO START only crank)
code with this normally--> crank angle sensor...
I would check with a scan tool if there is an rpm signal from crank angle sensor before declaring it dead....

next for me if all that was ok would be a compression check......
to make sure your not chasing an internal pressure issue or timing issue (chain cam etc)

if none of this fixes it you have missed something....... pm me if stuck still.....

OH and i know people have there own ways of diagnosing things but generally what i have said is the basic steps i follow when i have an issue..... so if you dont like how i do things dont tell me......

[oska]

Busted key reader maybe? Very cheap and easy to fix yourself.

i have to agree with the son of IT DAD KNOWS ALL check and clean the contacts around the key

it's a common problem

[304runner]

not nescecarily a fuel issue.... but sounds like an air/fuel mix issue

for ANY no start issue on ANY engine follow the easy method
suck, squeeze, bang, blow. the basics an engine needs to run..
check it has all of these parts working correctly to find the cause
these have sections on modern engines for anyone who cares....

signal to start ok? (immobiliser starter ecu power and earth etc)
voltage high enough to stay cranking? (battery altenator or starter or siezed motor)
air getting in? (blocked intake)
air in being measured correctly?(afm or map sensor or intake leak)
fuel? (sender failure or pump or fuel pressure reg)
fuel pressure ok? (check at rail)
fuel injector signals ok? (noid light check and or cas)
injectors ok? (leaking or blocked)
compression? (also shows if timing is out mechanically/internally)
spark? (check coils leads plugs)
exhaust unblocked? (blocked cat or dpf)
exhaust air being measured? (02 sensors)
ignition on signal maintained? (relays ecu's ignition switchs key readers etc)

but anyways im done blabbering

FOR YOUR CAR THIS TRANSLATES TO
as it starts AND RUNS FOR 5 SECONDS then stalls likely immobiliser is not stalling it as it would just not start at all and just crank....and engine light flashes while cranking????? from memory~! key reader is part of the immobiliser signal circuit......

recomend a code check for starters..........(look it up in search up there^^^^)
note: (afm doesnt always set code if dead OR WET WITH WATER/OIL)

i would check the fuel tank isnt empty... put ten litres in and retry... if works sender is dead or your blind

if started AFTER you replaced pump then skip this one

if this issue was there BEFORE you replaced the fuel pump
then maybe air flow meter is incorrect reading to engine control module
(as in when you said "you apply accelerator it stalls straight away" this is a cause OR fuel pressure)

check fuel pressure would be my next check.... as maybe there is a blockage or regulator dead or pressure too high OR too low (incorrect hose connections OR incorrect fuel pump requiring adjustable fuel pressure regulator)
(as in did replacing the pump fix the issue you replaced it for or cause this one?)

if afm and fuel pressure and no codes is all ok

check for a vacum leak AFTER the AIR flow METER hoses on inlet manifold etc (bit of carby spray around them all will show you IF there is a vacum leak)

then maybe spark cutting out after a few cycles (normally just straight out die but NO START only crank)
code with this normally--> crank angle sensor...
I would check with a scan tool if there is an rpm signal from crank angle sensor before declaring it dead....

next for me if all that was ok would be a compression check......
to make sure your not chasing an internal pressure issue or timing issue (chain cam etc)

if none of this fixes it you have missed something....... pm me if stuck still.....

OH and i know people have there own ways of diagnosing things but generally what i have said is the basic steps i follow when i have an issue..... so if you dont like how i do things dont tell me......

You should head out to the pub mate....

[db_notso]

lol left straight after that actually