Power Window/electrical issues.
I was wondering if someone could give me some advise/information regarding some issues i have with my driver side window. I bought my VTII about 2-3 months ago now and everything was fine and worked a treat. Then after going to the mechanics to get a minor service done ( he also down a radiator flush and when running the car to get thermo fan to kick in, fan ended up staying on, to which mechanic said it had a sticky relay and replaced the switch or some shit) my driver window would go down but would not go back up, mechanic adviced it was the switch which i replaced with no relief, my window still goes down but not up. Also since then i have found that my dash lights arent working anymore, i replaced a blown fuse and the new one blew straight if someone could please give some information as to whats going on with my poor beloved car it would be greatly appreciated,
broken wire in that flexible harness between the door and the car is a common problem for the electric windows.
blown fuse means there is a short to earth in the parklight circuit somewhere, the first places i would look is the wiring harness going to the rear lights in the boot an if you have one the harness for the trailer plug.
would that make my dash lights not work??? my headlights work but not my dash lights or any of my instrument lights for that matter.
Im a female and wouldnt know where to start with looking for wiring harnesses etc but dont wanna get ripped off going to a mechanic or auto electrician anymore they have taken enough from me already
yeah that fuse should run your parklights in your headlights and tail lights, as i said check the rear harness first by pulling back the carpet stuff in the boot. the harness runs from the front to the back on the drivers side then goes across the back to the passenger side. you just need to check if the harness has been rubbing on any sharp metal that could cut through the wiring.
might be if you have a trailer plug, the wiring gets shorted if installed dodgy
I saw a auto electrician and he thinks it maybe in the BCM would this be possible?? and if so how would i fix this problem without it killing my pocket?
Donating Member
If it is the BCM then it will need to be replaced and that won't be cheap.Originally Posted by myVTII
I'd be inclined to go with Axemurder's theory, a broken wire in the rubber boot of the door loom. You could check this by removing the door card and unplugging the door loom at the body and then check the continuity of the wires for the power windows. If the wires check out fine then perhaps look into a BCM fault.
MY RIDE
I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken.
it would be interesting to know how the auto elec came to that conclusion, how much time did he spend on the car? im still thinking its a broken wire in the door loom especially since you said you have a new switch, i have been an apprentice auto elec for 2 and a half years now and fixed a few commodores with similar problems
the auto electrician didnt even look at the problem really just put the window back up for me and charged me for that mind you. He said that there is a way to bypass the bcm to the window but still quoted me $160+ to do this. Im not very car minded and neither is my other half but we aren't stupid. If some could please explain in fine detail where to look and what to do Im pretty sure he is quiet capable of checking it all out and hopefully fixing the problems im having. Thanks for all of your assistance.
basically you just have to get to the wiring between the door by un clipping each end of that black rubber tubing, then you just have to give each wire you see a good tug and hopefully one of the wires will be broken, then you will need to rejoin the broken wire using just a crimp terminal. if you need more help i could probably try to get some pics tomorrow which might help
Does the window jitter going down? or go down smoothly but won't go back up.
My rear window would only sometimes work or would jitter etc turned out that the wiring had completely charred between the door(It was black and melted -_-) simply to fix it i pulled the entire loom out of the door(Pain in the A** lol) cut the rubber away and fixed it with some electrical tape, i would suggest if this is your case and what i will be doing sometime when i have to get back into that area of the car is use some heatshrink tubing(put tube over wires before connecting them) AND electrical tape just for some added shielding but my dodgy job got me through RWC and my window still works 6 months on
Also might be an idea if you can take the door trim off and check all the wiring in there, while this can be a pain might be worth it, could even be wiring under the center switch for all the windows might be shorting out in there
Gotta love wiring looms lol
P.S Bought it with a broken window switch is why i didnt think of burnt wiring till my new switch didn't work XD
-Menlaus
i got a friend to look at the wiring and he says everything is fine, he also checked the switches and the have power going to them, pulled the door apart and i think he said there is power there but something about when the window goes down 1 wire is positive and the other earth ( i think he said) and when using the switch in the up direction the wires swap ( earth becomes positive and positive becomes earth) well aparently this is not happening. I dont know how true this is but im getting very frustrated with not been able to use my window when i drive please somebody HELP...............
Bit hard to help without being there. Try another auto electrician and take your friend with you to describe the issue.
Your friend is right with no button press both window wires at window motor should be negative when up is pressed 1 wire goes positive while the other stays negative and the opposite happens when down is pressed.
The BCM is only for the down function it puts a timed output to a relay with a yellow stripe on top of it the relay is located below the steering wheel under the pull down panel.
This relay is used by the BCM so the window will go down automaticity when you press and release the down button you should also here the relay click on then 5 seconds pass then off so If you here this relay click on and off the BCM will be ok
The relay has a yellow line on it and it is half the size of a normal relay it also has 5 pins.
Window up needs Positive from the up switch and negative from the relay.
When no button is being pressed the relay is off and Is connecting negative from pin 4 of the relay to pin 3 of the relay Check pin 4 on the relay with a volt meter for negative look on the side of the relay for the pin outs of the relay.
If your window goes down the wires are all ok.
And if the relay is working and has negative on pin 4 the switch block in centre console is the cause of the problem of the windows not going up even though you changed it the new one is not for your car or is faulty.
The switch block with no button pressed should be ground on both up and down out puts.
With up button pressed up output wire will be positive and down output will still be negative.
With down button pressed down output will be Positive and up output will still be negative.
Pin 3 of the relay connects to one side of the window motor the other side of the window motor is connected to the up switch drivers side output.
Pin 5 on the relay is constant Positive.
Pin 4 on the relay is constant Negative.
Pin 1 of the relay is used as power Positive to the relay coil needed to switch the relay on.
Pin 2 on the relay is connected to the BCM and goes Negative to turn the relay coil on.
When the relay is on the window goes down the relay connects Pin 5 and Pin 3 together giving Positive to one side of the motor the other side of the motor is Negative and connects to the up switch drivers side because the up switch is not being pressed it is negative.
When the relay is off Pin 4 constant negative is connected to Pin 3 giving the Window motor negative to one side the other side of the motor is connected to the Up switch drivers side giving that side of the motor Positive because the up switch is being pressed.
I think that covers it nicely
ok so my friend went over the relay thing as mentioned above, he has also checked and rechecked all wiring, has put a multimeter to everything that needs power etc and everything is fine there so now im back to square 1 at not knowing. Does anyone know of a good auto electrician in the sydney (south west preferably) that will fix this without costing me an arm and a leg. And does anyone else have anymore suggestions???
Ive just had a friend wire my drivers window to operate off the passenger switch which means both windows will open and close at the same time, so in saying that can anyone suggest where my problem could be with not working from my own switch if that makes sense. I do have a Mr Gadget man to help me sort this out but my beloved VT has him stumped as to where the problem is as he has gone over absolutely everything he thinks is possible to rectify this for me and so he has come up with the short term solutions so i can open and close my window and thats to operate both front windows from the passenger switch, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
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