I need to replace my rear brakes pads. Can i just replace these or do/should i replace the lot.
What brand should i get?
I can get Lucas brake pads front and rear for $99.00.
Any advice would be helpful.
Unless they have been recently done, it's best to do all of them...you put your foot on the pedal, it operates all the brakes on all the wheels(even wear)...there should be an inspection hole somewhere..( I am not really familiar with your modal car).........it isn't a real hard job to do, either.......
Brake pads in my opinion come down to personal choice, type of driving, how heavy you are on the brake, whether you tow heavy loads etc.
Given it's the rear your changing I wouldn't go anything special, on the old VN as I was a little heavy on the brake pedal I went Bendix Ultimates (around $100) in the front and something like Bendix standard for around $35 - $40 on the rear.
A couple of downsides I found with Ultimates was cold temperatures the brakes didn't work all that well and excess brake dust, the old mags still show signs of how not to look after them but that's another story.
The VY I've been itching to try the EBC Green stuff pads, but back to Bendix pads, they had a nice little chart on their web site a while back stating what you 'should' or 'could' use.
Changing pads is easy, unbolt calliper, remove brake reservoir cap, get g clamp and slowly push the piston back with old inner pad in place till it can't go any further. IMPORTANT: check that the calliper sliders are working and not seized, otherwise u will get premature wear on pads, insert new pads, both sides. Check handbrake shoes also when u have the calipers removed. Check and measure the discs also, if the pads have been left to wear metal to metal, then get them machined. When bolting caliper back on always use loctite or simular and do up f#ckin tight. I replace the brake fluid at this point, as over time it absorbs moisture, resulting in brake fade, this should be done every 2 years regardless of kms. Suck it out of reservoir, clean inside and top up with approved new fluid, NOTE: brake fluid has a shelve life and half empty containers should be disregarded after 3 months from opening. Then bleed system starting at the further most point from the master cylinder(LH rear) 3 pumps either side, then do fronts, check for leaks from all flexiable hoses as they dont last for ever.
ok did the brakes front and back on my vp.....i paid $46 for front and rear shoes at trade price from a holden dealer....i did them my self today...i also ajusted the hand brake inside of the disk ....the only thing i found is it didnt come up as much as i would have liked it......there was plenty of lining on the hand brake shoes on both side.......if i took the disk of again and did it some more would it bring the hand brake handle further down>>>>>>>>>>>>? every thing else is fine the brakes are like new....not bad front and back for $46....................cheers,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
We ALL HAVE 1 THING IN COMMON:THE RELENTLESS PURSUIT OF GRIP
Bendix Ultimates. Cost a little extra but worth it. And yes very easy to change, couple of G-Clamps will see you done easily. If fronts are your only trouble, replace fronts only same for rear. no need to change all at once as rear usually wear longer than front.Originally Posted by U2Bono