Does this cam seem alright for price for my ls1?if not anyone able to link up another as im not sure what ima to look for as i only have plans to cam the ls1 replace valves springs etc. only have bolt on`s atm headders cat exhaust otr cai .
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d
Real cars don't power the front wheels, they lift them
thats tiny mate! i think its nearly the same as the ls2 cam. get something in the 22+ range or it wont be worth it. i dont know much about lunati so i stuck with comp cams as thats what people on here recommended i do. i got mine from the states for that price including postage and i also got lifters, dr timing chain and pushrods.
Take a look at these guys. They will do a complete kit for the same price as the one you found. I bought mine from these guys.
Just becareful of the lift, because if you go over .600 you will probably have to fly cut the pistons.
COMP 265 RPM HI-LIFT LS1-LS2-LS3-LS
COMP 275 XFI RPM HI-LIFT GM LS LS1-LS2-LS3-LS thats the kit i bought, cat back twin 3", in the process of buying headers and high flows from naaf. getting mafless tune once exhaust is finished as i ran out of $ when putting cam in, decided to put in new plugs leads rebuild power steering pump, superlow kings, monroe gt's, nolathane bushes, catch can. new head gaskets and head bolts because i replaced lifters, valve regrind gasket set. sooo much torque! i love it, doesnt idle very well because i havent got it tuned yet.
Cheers mate, just wondering is it easy enough to do the cam myself or leave it to a mechanic?
Real cars don't power the front wheels, they lift them
Yeah mate still looking for the right cam to suit re mods I have, and yep it's a 6spd manual. Just abit worried on how the bottom end will handle it since the car has 230,000ks and I'm not to sure on how I would inspect the block etc before putting goodies into it
Real cars don't power the front wheels, they lift them
IMO in a manual much better off going a smallish cam as you dont have the advantage of a stall convertor
something around 224/228 would be perfect
lol clutch should be all mate got a Exedy HD clutch put in about 2 months ago. But as for a cam i think i might have found what im looking for
(Street Racer - Duration 232/234 @ 050 - Power Range 2300-6700 rpm) Thats from GM motorsport heres a link to the 2 clips i found
Camshaft Package LS1 - 5.7lt - GM Motorsport
Real cars don't power the front wheels, they lift them
I know little about modern cams, but I know enough to know that buying one randomly from ebay isnt the go. I'd speak to several experts at various speed shops, telling them what you have and what you want to achieve, and get them to make recommendations.
Once you have arrived at a decision, including the brand of cam, then if you get lucky and find the exact cam you want, brand name and all, on ebay by all means go for it. Otherwise, shop around. Just get some real expert advice first, so you know what to shop for.
I am thinking most experts will recommend you change more than just the cam too, if you want to get any real benefit out of it.
This is the extra stuff they added to the motor in the package you are looking at, pasted from their webpage...
To this LS1 - 5.7lt VX SS Sedan, we fitted a GMM TM Camshaft, 3200 Hi-Stall, Higgins CNC Heads, Tie Bar Lifters, HD Valve Springs, HD Pushrods, 84mm Throttle Body, Ramjet Cold Air Intake, Di Filippo 1 3/4" Headers, Di Filippo 2 1/2" Hi Flow Cats, Cat Back System... We then full custom tuned it for a result of 306 rwkw in an Automatic... Low 11's all day down the 1/4 mile.
hes not randomly buying one from ebay, thats why hes asking on here, and your giving advice when you know nothing about modern cams?? any cam that you are going to put in yourself is at best an estimated guess as to what you want.. unless you have access to all the cars with different cams in them, and you have a nice enough owner to let you drive their car. it took me months trying to find a cam right for my street car and thats why i went for a 222/224 @ 112 lsa because its a bit more street friendly than higher ratio cams and i very rarely get above the 5000rpm mark. at a bare minimum you have to change springs, retainers, timing chain and cam, but when the kits come with all the other stuff why not. not having a crack mate but i got sick of people giving me advice when they new NOTHING but stuff they had heard on here and it slightly gets changed everytime they pass it on.
Yep, I know nothing. I didn't advise on anything I know nothing about.. I advised to ask a few genuine experts.
Not true. He needs to ask a genuine expert and more than one of them. They have already tried all the combos, they know what works well together and what other stuff is advisable to add.
The kit he posted doesnt have a lot of that, and he hasnt mentioned it. If he isnt told, he wont know. As above, ask an expert.
Just because you have had success with your cam and engine combo does not make you an expert either. The same applies to most people on this forum. Most are just opinionated people with limited experience in some fields that makes them think they are an expert. I've even been guilty of the same thing myself at times, though at least I usually try to qualify that with "I'm no expert but this is my opinion".
I've made no such claims here. My advice was just this "I'd speak to several experts at various speed shops, telling them what you have and what you want to achieve, and get them to make recommendations." I challenge you to prove thats bad advice.
Thanks for your input though![]()
Last edited by DAKSTER; 14-09-2011 at 04:05 PM.
Well after tlking to the guys from Gentech in canberra, im told i shouldent bother caming the motor with 230,000k`s on itwas told waste of money. he said i should look into replacing the motor with a VY 5.7 with less then 150,000`ks and then talk to him about a cam. but i did get some info he said a 230/230 cam would do the job i want
Real cars don't power the front wheels, they lift them
so i can get a vy motor for $2000, take it to Gentech cam put in etc $4200 total $6200. seems abit outta my price range now![]()
Real cars don't power the front wheels, they lift them
Hey not sure on how the cam progress is goin but my 2 bob is, try texas speed in states, they do you a cheap as deal for there grind, if your doing it on the cheap, id get cam, n beehive springs, do it yourself, also i got a comp 224-228 112 lsa in mine with auto, stock converter doesnt push to bad down low with a good tune, and its operating range starts round 2g so, in a manual that would still work ok and a good tune would get you a acceptable idle n your feet will work the rest out.
BUt 230 000 k's id seriously be looking at throwing some new rod bearings in, the main bearings last for a while but not the rod and cam bearings also your cam bearings at 200 000 will have a fair bit of wear already and putting a more agressive valvetrain in will only wear them quicker which will give you a oil pressure loss, and btw the rod bearings are the last bearings in the oil system to recieve oil so as the motor ages and wears ( oil pressure drops) and the engine wears out quicker, for eg, 230 000 motor driven easily prob last to 330 000 no probs, but 230 000 motor with cam put in being flogged um i give it 20-30 thousand k's and prob spin a rod bearing or something but i guess the more you get into it the more the snowball effect and before you know it you have rebuilt ya self a new motor lol good luck wish you all the best and believe me, cam, heads, otr,exhaust n tune is fun plus all worth it.! Btw if you source your parts right and find a good machine shop to fit cam bearings and machine hone block and you build the engine yourself you should be a able to complete rebuild a ls1 for just under a $1000.00 plus cam and springs = say total $1800 or less roughly for rebuilt motor with cam :P thats what i would do if i was you.
Last edited by matqld; 16-09-2011 at 02:27 AM.