hey guys im 100% new to conversions and so on and i have never done underhood modifications except for extracters on my current vt i was just wandering what sort of work id be jumping into aswell as pricing to drop a 1jz twin turbo or a 2jz into my vt and if any1 had to links to really helpful write ups about doing it? would appreciate any help i can get thanks guys.
Mate that conversion would cost you a hell of a lot of money. For less money you could slam a LS1 in there with some change for some go-fast mods or even a F/I setup if your budget could stretch that far.
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well ive got a fair bit to play around with but in saying that im not all for blowing like 20k for a twin turboed vt you know?
but how about this ls1 idea? would it still be able to push like 10 to 11 seconds down the qtr mile with the right amount spent?
So you want a 10-11 sec car but dont wanna spend 20k![]()
Black, Red leather, 20" Pentagons, Red walls, Lowered, OTR, Mafless, 3.9s, Diff dumpers, 341rwhp...
185i, Chasers, Flappers, Venetians, Sunvisor, Twin diff dumpers, 194rwhp...
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It can be done for under 20k![]()
VT V6 fitted with DMS gold 40mm coilovers, Whiteline adjustable swaybars & strut brace, 330mm AP racing brakes, Rebuilt 3.45:1 LSD and a Powerdyne supercharger
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gah....
You are changing a lot of things there, usually engine swaps are easier if you keep to the same displacement.
Example an RB20 swap into an S13 (sr20) is a piece of piss.
What you are doing is going to make it very difficult and you will need to get a lot of stuff custom fabricated (this is where the bucks start comming up)
Also electricals wont all work right.. its just not worth it imo unless you are an autoelectrician and your spouse is a mechanic and your best mate who owes you is a fabricator.
Go with the LS1 swap and put a gen TT kit on it.. will cost prob around 12-14k DIDO.
2J swap with no background... would prob cost around 15-20k (not to mention getting parts for it would be shit)
A 1j or 2j swap in a vt is on par with the LS1 as far as difficulty. The power of an LS1 and is nothing compared to the potential of a 1j or 2j.
If you want a car to sound loud then go for the LS1, if you want it to run a lazy 12 with stock engine internals and a turbo upgrade then go for an 1j.
Id recommend 1jz Single turbo set up. The single turbo will allow clearance of your brake booster and you can get serious top end power from it.
The 1jz can handle 1000hp on stock internals and the LS1's don't.
The conversion is easy to do with even basic knowledge and simple tools but I wouldn't be doing it on your own if you have no experience of engines and fabrication.
But in saying that, there is stuff all fabrication involved, engine mounts are easy to make out of thin plywood and then have laser cut out of steel and the gearbox X-member and drive shaft you can have someone knock up for under $400.
Id be doing a heap of internet research over a week or so and then weighing up the odds and http://www.toymods.org.au/site/ is a great place to start, and FFS use their search bar before posting the same question otherwise they will jump all over you.
Call up CRS conversions (google them) and see if they have a kit for you?
The easiest way to do all the conversion for you is to get a half cut, their all over eBay and this way you get the engine, box, ecu, loom and the dash.
You can use the stock dash that comes with the engine so you can eliminate the cost of an auto elec and focus on removing the dash and surrounds to run the new wiring but if it were me if just have him tap into my Holden's ecu so it would still bring up my dash lights and error codes ect....
The power and reliably of a 1j far outweigh any of the Holden engine's which sucks from a Holden fanatics point of view, but push your pride to one side (no pun intended) and the Toyota engine is cheaper, produced more pony's, more reliable and somewhat just as easy if not easier to install.
Once you have the engine in, you can the save up money to quite literally bolt on more horse power, where as the LS1's cant see the same amount of power without removing the engine and having it rebuilt which is massive dollars just to see what a stock 1j can do.
Black, Red leather, 20" Pentagons, Red walls, Lowered, OTR, Mafless, 3.9s, Diff dumpers, 341rwhp...
185i, Chasers, Flappers, Venetians, Sunvisor, Twin diff dumpers, 194rwhp...
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if you actually read what i wrote, your reply would make sense, but lets break it down for you as you appear to be simple, i was saying you can spend less on a supra with that same motor and spend less then 20k and have a 10sec car, which he has probably heard of before, hence why i wrote its probably why he is asking about that motor.
now to OP, i have never heard of 1j or 2j conversion for a vt, but is that because its too hard/expensive, or is it because no one has been game enough to try it, i dont know the answer to that, i personally would be worried how a boat would handle the power of a 1j or 2j
Worst part is you would have to use a motor from the year your car was built due to emission requirements. Good luck with that.
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
I have owned a 2j Supra and they are nice, but the norm is not 1000hp on stock internals.
Saying that a 2j has more potential and more power is a bit short sighted. You are not comparing a turbo engine with a turbo engine. Put a turbo on a stock LS1 and its already got more power then the 2j (displacement and torque just for starters).
Also most people are now for drift cars using LS1 engines over rb26 and 2j as it is a more solid engine....and lighter.. and isnt the whole idea of performance to lighten the car?
Using plywood for engine mounts imo is like using tinfoil for house roofing.. its ok under fine conditions.. and thats about it.
The 1j engine is no where near as nice as the 2j, but i wont get into that debate, just check out other supra forums for that.
Doing it the right way (electricals etc) will as i said cost you lots of time and hair loss, its honestly not worth engine swaps, best off just buying a supra if you want it, or get an SS and turbo it.
Also since the 2j has less talk and is more revvy, you wont get as much power to the ground as the commodores are heavier then the supra bodies.
You might want to re read my post, because you have misquoted everything you have quoted me on...Start again.
I call bullshit on pretty much everything you just wrote, in any case if you think the money invested in the bottom and top end plus the cost of a pair of snails on an LS1 plus a tune will be more financially viable and produce more RWHP then the same amount spent on the 2jz or even its smaller counter part the 1jz then there really isn't much point talking to you about it.
that being said If that's your belief, then you sir are off your head!
So just to help you out I will dumb down my explanations for you.
1j over 2j because they produce similar power and are cheaper to buy.
Plywood templates to help with custom laser cut steel mounts.
Any idiot can bolt on a turbo to an LS1 but it will blow the arse out of the bottom end or your budget if you decide to make it as strong as the Toyota engine.
Supra's don't run 1000hp but they can handle1000hp on stock internals....many drag cars run them. Wicked Fast 2JZ-powered BMW M3 - Gas Motorsports - YouTube
Without going off topic and turning this into a troll fest post.....
Doing engine swaps especially when displacement is dramatically changed is a pain in the ass and always has gremlins that need to be fixed.
On top of that someone who is not a mechanic (and i love how so many tools on forums think they are spanner monkey's cause they watched their mechanics do some work and use google) will have dramas with swaps.. nothing ever fits in perfectly and most of the time needs some kind of maintenance control.
Sorry about not seeing laser cut on the engine mounts.. but as my OP said, knowing a fabricator makes it much cheaper, if you dont.. cost went up.
Also an idiot cant do much, let alone "bolt" on a turbo. But a turbo on around 6psi wont blow the ass end out, and its only about 1k in parts wholesale (bearings, rods etc) and 1-2k for dripping the bottom block.
2j was nice.. LS1 is better.. big blocks are even better..
Just saying its going to cost a lot more then you think to make the 2j (or1j) a weapon, yeah its got a solid bottom end, but those big numbers cost big dollars.
wow look at that, its school holidays again......
Not a VT but very unique.
407RWKW VS Commodore 2JZ-GTE
Last edited by TI3VOM; 27-09-2011 at 11:44 AM.
VT V6 fitted with DMS gold 40mm coilovers, Whiteline adjustable swaybars & strut brace, 330mm AP racing brakes, Rebuilt 3.45:1 LSD and a Powerdyne supercharger
Check it out: http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...-v6-racer.html
Has it ever occured to any of you that if you need to ask these questions then you should be contemplating undertaking such a task? Someone who could do this conversion properly would not be on here asking vague questions of a bunch of keyboard mechanics.
And I also laugh at how some people think because they saw it on YouTube or read about it in hot 4's and street zoom's that it's gospel and they know all about it.
Those 1000hp 2j's are not stock. Nobody makes that kinda power with a stock car motor unless it has a bugatti badge. They left out the bit in the video where they slipped the low comp pistons, rod bolts, head and main studs, MLS or copper gasket's and all new bearings didn't they. You can't just ram 30 psi down the neck of a 10-20 year old engine and make 1000hp or else I'd be driving a 1000hp daily with a 2000hp race csr in the shed and one for me mum to drive to church on Sundays too
Cheap, fast, reliable.....you only get to choose two.
Black, Red leather, 20" Pentagons, Red walls, Lowered, OTR, Mafless, 3.9s, Diff dumpers, 341rwhp...
185i, Chasers, Flappers, Venetians, Sunvisor, Twin diff dumpers, 194rwhp...
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Its an easy conversion at the end of the day. Weather you have a workshop do it or you can afford to have you car off the road for a few weeks and do it yourself.
I completed an injected 5ltr conversion in my 4runner in 3 days with no f**k all knowledge. I used forums like these with productive build up threads and when I became confident with the build I started doing it.
And not once have I said that the 1j and 2jz are 1000hp! What kind of fool are you, learn to read FFS and stick to the facts "GRPABT1" and the link provided by old mate above is to t 2j build from the forum.. I like the par that say's "407RWKW 27 PSI (UN TOUCHED ENGINE)" Lets see a stock bottom end on an LS1 take 27psi...lol
Engine conversions sound scary but they are a walk in the park if your well prepared. Its almost as simple as bolting the engine into what ever car you like and making sure it gets fuel, spark and drive to the rear diff....
That all being said, im here to help a guy with an engine conversion and give him help with what he's stuck on providing he actually ever goes through with it.
If people feel like trolling a thread then please feel free to look for the post asking about flame thrower exhausts, twin turbocharging a VN v6 with 500,000+k's on it or a bloke interested in a VX clubsport kit for his VL.
Oh, and here's just another lazy 700+RWHP a 1j is making on stock internals Raw racing Isuzu 1JZ 709WHP, stock motor - YouTube
You're such a nice guy "helping" this poor noob out by getting him thinking he can convert his car so easily.
Cheap, fast, reliable.....you only get to choose two.