clutch goes to the floor
this is a weird one
car was driving fine yesterday and now the clutch goes to the floor and gearstick moves but no engagement
sounds like hydraulic slave or clutch cable or whatever this is?
Hydraulic clutch? Master/slave cylinder, or the line between the two. This happened on my car, and the master cylinder had exploded and sent fluid everywhere, pedal went straight to the floor.
Master cylinder is not too hard to get at... A 6 speed slave cylinder however is a bad thing.
Is the resivour empty?
Is there fluid dripping out of the bell housing?
You'll need to know how to get it moving from zero now, and double de clutch to change gears.
yeah reservoir is empty
i'm hoping it just needs a bleed and fluid top up
i find it strange its working fine one day and dead the next
So what ended up being the problem.. My vx cluth is intermittantly going to the floor.. Not losing fluid and master cylinder has been changed.
no apparent leaks.. If the slave was shot, wouldnt i be losing fluid??
Intermittent sounds like there could be a very small amount of air in the system. Try bleeding it again
Donating Member
It's common for the slave cylinder to let go on V8 6 speed manual Commodores, we just done a VY SS at work not long ago, need to remove the whole gearbox to replace it.
Originally Posted by Jasper44
Including car parts (VS, VT, VX, VY, WH etc), my WH Statesman, and other things listed on eBay.
i ended up putting a new clutch in as well... damn that wasn't cheap
stupid car
Where abouts on the box is the bleeder? When the mster cyclinder was replaced, the guy that did it tells me that ïts self bleeding".
worked ok for the first 1500 klms but is now getting worse..
I have only worked on cable ones and carnt afford to take it to a mechanic..
Any advise greatly appriciated..
TechJunkie
Bleeder isnt on the "box",its on the actuators body.
Change your grease monkey,its not a self bleeding system..Hope these pics help you out..
Wrong diagram. The clutch slave cylinder is within the gearbox bell housing and is a bugger to bleed. Below is the correct diagram. Before you try and bleed it, install the Xtreme extended clutch bleeder. I purchased mine for less than $20 at Bursons. It makes bleeding the clutch a breeze. You need a long 7/16" socket and a short thin socket handle to remove the old bleeder (space is very restricted). Line the inside of the socket with masking tape or packing tape so that the old bleeder sticks to the socket and doesn't fall into the housing. Check out the web site below for details of the bleeder. If you need more details send me a PM.
http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/page.asp?parentid=4&parent2id=25&productid=32
Last edited by BlackVXGTS; 01-01-2012 at 01:35 PM.
This isnt fun anymore... Turns out the slave at packed it in.. Mate and i pulled the box out, replaced the slave and fitted new clutch kit for good luck. Put it all back together, bled the clutch, all good. Within 100klms city driving, soft again. As no loss of fluid, bled again. All good. Now have put about 800klm's on it and the damn thing is intermitantly losing pressure again.. Have checked all lines and connections.. no leaks. The car was nose up when it was bled, Should i have it on a hoist level to ensure i get all the air out ??. This is driving me crazy as i am not game to let the minister for war and finance drive it in case it fails.. I have to be doing something wrong.. Suggestions anyone??
Master cylinder is brand new as well.. Was the first thing replaced when this capper started happening...
Once you have lost all your fluid it takes a couple of bleeds before you get all the air out of the system - particularly out of the master cylinder. Try bleeding again, then repeat a couple of weeks later. Should be OK then.
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