I had taken the car out from the shop bout two days ago and the component that needs to be changed was the Ignition module board. It looks like a flat plastic panel with a cigarette pack shaped module. Car tested was running smooth with no hesitation in acceleration, power etc.
On the way home tonight, the car showed EXACTLY the same symptoms before cutting out in the middle of traffic. Battery warning light came on, no throttle, lights dimmed and total loss to steering. I managed to steer the car under its remaining power, waited for a few minutes and then she restarted again with no drama. I thought the issue was fixed and i'm paranoid of driving, if this car cuts power in the middle of traffic again.
I checked the forum and there seems to multiple avenues and things to check. But if i had already checked the CAS sensor and the Ignition module board has been changed, what other items can cause the car to fail without warning??
Please help
Have you checked the Fault codes?
Never approach a goat from the front , a horse from the rear or a fool from any direction![]()
Hi
see my thread
i have the same problem
last week Ive change the DFI module (not the coil packs which will be the next on the list)
its been 11 days and seems OK but I'm still waiting for a hot day ,that when she seems to break down
bones308
Sometimes the CAS will do exactly that without throwing a code. I would replace it anyway.
The tech came up with no codes. so far from what i can see (and check) i have the following options.
1. Massage the wiring looms while the car is running, if it stalls then maybe i have a corroded wire?
2. Checked battery terminals, all ok battery voltage at a healthy 14.4volts
3. Checked grounding points, all good
4. Checked relays for damage, all good no burnt contacts
5. The alternator is charging, connectors all tight
6. o2 sensors ???
7. Just cleaned the throttle body
8. Temp sensors ???
9. Vacuum hose all tight and no pinhole leaks or cracks
10. Will clean the IAC valve (its raining now)
I'm thinking of spraying the connectors with electrical contact cleaner and look for flat or loose crimp connections.
this is something i can do, is there any other area i am missing? Car doesnt show any error codes, so i'm guessing its some intermittent fault. if it was the fuel pump it would not have made that buzzing sound (its relatively new) and i had it checked for pressure delivery, all good. fuel filter not clogged, car running on Ron 98
I hate to be driving and then the car will stall with no warning
you say that you've checked the CAS but NOt replaced??????????
Have you checked the fuel system for clogged filter, dodgy relay or fuel pump on the way out?
Just because no error code does not mean its not faulty. Issues you mention i would replace it anyway and mentioned several times already.
Ok, maybe i wasnt too clear. the mechanic changed to a new CAS sensor and the car still stalled. finally changed the module under the 3 ignition coils and this seemed to solve the problem. For two days the car ran trouble free...
Last night it stalled again. Earlier in the day i went through a checklist, waited for the rain to stop and then cleaned the throttle body, airtube, air filter, checked all the connections and cleaned out the IAC valve...
I double checked the spark plug lead and then...when i was just LOOKING at the vacuum hose, the damn thing broke!
There's a vacuum hose from the back of the supercharger to the front of the 'nose' part which connects to some kind of mechanism which looks like a control vacuum valve or something. The L-shaped rubber connector broke clean in half and when i blew through the tube, bits of rubber fell out.
Can a broken vacuum valve stall an engine? I'm kinda peeved that if can contribute to the engine stalling, then this weak part is like the 'unguarded exhaust port on the Death Star'
Since its a holiday here, i'll pop down to the shop for replacements and hope this little thing fixed will solve the problem!!
Car was behaving well in front of the mechanic(s). did a second fuel pressure test and came up with routine numbers. this got me totally stumped.
[QUOTE=blacknight;2047078]
Can a broken vacuum valve stall an engine? [quote]
Yep.
Its just a plastic tube with two rubber L-shaped connectors on each end. I am an RC Racer, i have some silicone tubing which i can use to replace this p.o.s tube. Cross my fingers to see if this is the cure
now i'm wondering if this $3 tube was ll it took to get the car from stalling again...instead of spending $$$ on new coil packs, diagnostics and the ignition module!
mate, sometimes that's what it takes, particularly when your mechanic can't seem to fix the problem. I always start with the simplest cause, usually it's the right one. I hope it fixes your problem. Those other bits would eventually need replacing anyway, so look on it as preventative maintenance.
I'm brooding bcoz i have this thought at the back of my head that maybe the repairs could have cost less than $10, instead of all that checking and replacing parts. the car is still behaving very well, absolutely no problems but i am keeping an eye and both ears open for any symptoms if the stalling gremlin returns
This time it stalled again!!!
In the middle of heavy traffic i had to get off the damn highway before i got myself rear ended. All the while i was losing power steering, no engine response , the brakes were fading. COMPLETE ENGINE SHUTDOWN!!
I had changed the vacuum hose which i found to be cracked and the car was behaving well for two days. But after going home on the back of the tow truck, this car is beginning to piss me off.
what havent i done to check and damn well replace EVERYTHING on the previous checklist???
The brakes were fading?
-Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
James Bovard, Civil Libertarian (1994)
-Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
P.J. O'Rourke, Civil Libertarian
-Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short Phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Ronald Reagan (1986)
My bad, I read it literally.
Sorry to harp on dude, but you haven't mentioned anything about your fuel system being checked. Pump, filter, relay all can cause stalling.
HI
i have a VT v6 1999 MAY auto with the same problems (when hot weather)
tomorrow I'm going to replace the CAS sensor again!!!!!!!! and the CAM sensor.
The fuel pump is all good, checked the fuel rails (three times) and its registering a very healthy pressure under all RPMs. No stuttering, no lack of fuel pressure. this was tested at the agent. New filter is not clogged and the relay, if it was faulty, wouldnt fire up the pump. changed it with a new one and checked the terminals for corrosion. Changed the fuel line and absolutely no difference. Car still stalls....I'm now waiting in the customer's lounge in the holden shop wondering what other gremlins can still be there making my car to stall.
Exhausted ALL avenues...
Check the wiring harness connection that joins onto the DFI module.Ok, maybe i wasnt too clear. the mechanic changed to a new CAS sensor and the car still stalled. finally changed the module under the 3 ignition coils and this seemed to solve the problem. For two days the car ran trouble free...
Last night it stalled again. Earlier in the day i went through a checklist, waited for the rain to stop and then cleaned the throttle body, airtube, air filter, checked all the connections and cleaned out the IAC valve...
I double checked the spark plug lead and then...when i was just LOOKING at the vacuum hose, the damn thing broke!
There's a vacuum hose from the back of the supercharger to the front of the 'nose' part which connects to some kind of mechanism which looks like a control vacuum valve or something. The L-shaped rubber connector broke clean in half and when i blew through the tube, bits of rubber fell out.
Can a broken vacuum valve stall an engine? I'm kinda peeved that if can contribute to the engine stalling, then this weak part is like the 'unguarded exhaust port on the Death Star'
Since its a holiday here, i'll pop down to the shop for replacements and hope this little thing fixed will solve the problem!!
Its common to get a loose connection there that will make the car stop intermittently. The connection's pins have all got to be spotlessly clean and a nice firm fit.
Replaced my crank angle sensor a while ago with car having same problem you're having and it still played up. Dodgy connection was the problem all along.![]()