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Thread: 5L Radiators

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    Default 5L Radiators

    Hi guys,

    Just wondering if anyone can recommend somewhere or link to websites where I can buy a good radiator for my VT SS 5L (it's auto, if that's necessary info).
    Was thinking of getting maybe a full alloy one or 'performance' one.

    I'm a little concerned with my cooling system going into summer and think I should get onto it early before I get stuck in 40 degree heat on the side of the road in peak traffic.

    I'm noticing that whilst driving along my car is fine, however if I stop for maybe 3-5mins or longer I end up watching the temp gauge starting to rise to a little over half way, and thats even without aircon on and in fairly cool temperatures.
    (usually it sits somewhere between 1/4 and half)

    I'm thinking maybe my radiator is screwed.
    However if someone has any other ideas?
    Could it be a simple case of the thermostat being stuffed?
    I think my heater core is gone too, so I think I should just do the whole lot all at once... thoughts?

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    Best place would be eBay but look for someone who is a proper radiator seller selling proper performance ones (not some Guido selling Chinese cheap shit as performance parts). Thermostat wouldn't cause that. If your thermostat is stuck shut your car will boil over every time you start it no matter what. If it was stuck open your car wouldn't heat up to normal operating temperature as quickly and on winter nights would sit on Cold the entire time you drive. Heater core.... Not a very fun job. You need to let the gas out of your aircon and remove the entire dash to get to it. Would be the radiator causing that issue for sure. But if you're going to do the heater core, might as well do it at the same time as the radiator, and do the heater tap and all the hoses too. And if you're spending all that money might as well get a new thermostat done at the same time. Even check the condition of the housing to make sure it's not going to flog out sometime soon.
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    Cheers Mick, that's what I was thinking. Found one that looked good for about $350 had some strange brand name across the front of it I'd not heard before, but for memory it was coming out of a radiator place in Vic or something.
    Would $350 be TOO much for a rad ?

    highway rads, yeah man it's only when I've stopped for a decent period of time (ie. a change of lights wont do it, but if I'm there for 2 changes it might start type of thing).

    Ta 91 WA, will look into those, cheers !
    Looks like the thermostats are for the V6 engines

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    RADIATOR HOLDEN COMMODORE VT VX V8 5.7L auto&man 99-02 | eBay

    This one looks good with 3yr warranty.
    First thing to check will be are fans, start car let it reach normal temperature and turn aircon on, both fans should turn on.
    Next thing blocked radiator, take both hoses off and run a garden hose through it (dont need to take radiator off the car) If flow is slow then clean radiator.
    Thermostat, start car and if it takes forever to warm up then it is thermostat.
    Waterpump, if car heats up both while driving and idle then waterpump and when car heats up radiator is cold.
    Blocked radiator again, if top hose is warm and bottom hose is cold.
    Pinhole leak, if losing coolant and car leaking water only sometimes.

    For these cars the temperature should not go above half or it will throw water and pressure will build up. If temperature goes at half or above, cooling system has problem.

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    Cheers umair.
    I did see those ones, but they look like they're the 5.7lt ones not 5L.

    The one I saw which was all alloy was
    VT VX Holden Commodore V8 5ltr & 6cyl FULL ALLOY Performance Race Radiator Auto | eBay
    Obviously this ones like 2-3 times the price of the other one, if I didn't HAVE to spend that much I'd be happy, but I'd definitely want to get something that is an improvement over the standard system.

    I checked that the fans are still working last night by pulling into my driveway and sitting there.
    It wasn't long before they kicked in, before any temp started to rise visibly on the dash.

    Car seems to warm up fine so I dont think its thermo.
    I think my waterpump on the car was changed a year or two ago, but I know the rad is old etc so I'm guessing thats where the prob is.
    (That and the heatercore being stuffed).


    Edit: This one MAY be another, 1yr less on warranty but comes from a radiator place also. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-Co...item1c135a2f63

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    Dessert cool radiators are Aussie made and he's not as expensive as you might think. Had him make me a huge custom 4 core for my sigma race car and it only cost me $450. I was expecting to pay well over a grand.

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    Cheers 97.
    Looks like some of the guys on the aussiev8 forums have had some issues with those rads.
    I might look into it a bit more though.

    Also considering taking the car to NatRad or something, at least then they can test it and check it all out and should be able to tell me exactly the issue.
    My car was overheating again this morning.
    I checked the coolant, filled up the radiator till it stopped taking coolant (and no more air was coming out). (took about 3-4litres)
    Haven't bled it though, also topped up the overflow a bit.
    maybe that'll help the issue.

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    The only issue your likely to get is electrolysis from stray earth or using the wrong coolant. I use 100% lathe coolant and haven't had a problem in over 4 years.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 97bermudacalais View Post
    Dessert cool radiators are Aussie made and he's not as expensive as you might think. Had him make me a huge custom 4 core for my sigma race car and it only cost me $450. I was expecting to pay well over a grand.
    +1 for Norm and the Aussie desert crew........they're triple flow radiators are the shi7

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    Well it can be the thermostat, if you have the old design and it closes if it fails. The newer ones open when they fail

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    Tips when asking about radiators:

    There is no such thing as a 2, 3 or 4 core rad in your application.

    The "core is the space between the two tanks, and what you would be after is a multi "row" rad...

    Tank: Usually on the top and bottom, sometimes side to side.

    Core: the space between the tanks.

    Row: the channels that the water runs through to feed the tanks.

    Fins: the things kids like to press and squash that absorb the heat from the rows which are cooled by ambient temperature.

    Just buy a standard rad, that will be fine.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by 304runner View Post
    Tips when asking about radiators:

    There is no such thing as a 2, 3 or 4 core rad in your application.

    The "core is the space between the two tanks, and what you would be after is a multi "row" rad...

    Tank: Usually on the top and bottom, sometimes side to side.

    Core: the space between the tanks.

    Row: the channels that the water runs through to feed the tanks.

    Fins: the things kids like to press and squash that absorb the heat from the rows which are cooled by ambient temperature.

    Just buy a standard rad, that will be fine.....

    WTF? are we back in kindergarten that we need to learn what a radiator is. Mirkz was asking about a full alloy radiator and I was relaying my experience with a custom 4 core for MY application. Yes there is only one type for his car but they are available on full aluminum as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 97bermudacalais View Post
    WTF? are we back in kindergarten that we need to learn what a radiator is. Mirkz was asking about a full alloy radiator and I was relaying my experience with a custom 4 core for MY application. Yes there is only one type for his car but they are available on full aluminum as well.
    Yeah looks like you need to go back to Kindergarten champ.. Id love to see your 4 core alloy rad you picked up for $450! lol

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    Well back on topic.

    Haven't seen a change in the temp since I've topped up the radiator.
    Then again, I've not sat anywhere for a while. Might see if it changes if I go get take away tonight.

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    I had similar symptoms to yours, i.e. temp rising when at lights for a few changes etc. a few months ago. I also ended up pouring litres of coolant into it, only to be low again days later. Turned out the clamps on my heater hoses at the firewall needed a 1/4 turn and all was sorted.

    Mind you, took my mechanic a bit of time to work it out with the pressure tester. He ended up leaving it at pressure for about an hour and finally saw the drip drip drip from the clamps.

    BTW...if you do end up needing a new radiator, have a chat to Odin Radiators in Balcatta. Mine cacked itself a few years ago (was spewing coolant out the front of the car under pressure). I went to them to get a standard replacement one which has been fine. Their price was better than all the other quotes I got as well. Research I did at the time lead me to believe that alloy radiators and old cast iron blocks could be a recipe for disaster so I went for the safe option. They also give a 2 yr guarantee.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 304runner View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by 97bermudacalais View Post
    WTF? are we back in kindergarten that we need to learn what a radiator is. Mirkz was asking about a full alloy radiator and I was relaying my experience with a custom 4 core for MY application. Yes there is only one type for his car but they are available on full aluminum as well.
    Yeah looks like you need to go back to Kindergarten champ.. Id love to see your 4 core alloy rad you picked up for $450! lol
    BAM..........1XCustom 4 core alloy radiator, paid $450 including GST
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 5L Radiators-image.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by 97bermudacalais View Post
    BAM..........1XCustom 4 core alloy radiator, paid $450 including GST
    LOL (facepalm) I see a 1 core rad...Silly child.... Anyways.......

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    Quote Originally Posted by 304runner View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by 97bermudacalais View Post
    BAM..........1XCustom 4 core alloy radiator, paid $450 including GST
    LOL (facepalm) I see a 1 core rad...Silly child.... Anyways.......
    100 mm thick single core???????

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    shit, to thick.. copper kicks ass. last longer, and u can repair it..3 row made rite will cool easy 800hp..

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    here you go as brought one the other day as mine split on way home from work, 3 days prior to xmas i needed asap and ordered Wednesday night and arrived today, cheapest i could find and looks ok but will be fitting tomorrow.. strange timing someone asked just when i needed one.

    eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

    Paulie

    had to edit due as also have a VT 98 5L as my profile shows a VS SS...

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