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Thread: L67 120amp Alternator

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    Default L67 120amp Alternator

    I recently purchased a 120amp alternator for my v6 and I know I need a new high performance battery that can handle the power outage (but what type?)... am I better off with that or changing my CAI to just a pod running out the throttle body and setting up another regular battery where the air box would be sitting?

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    no need to upgrade battery. it's still going to regulate and stop charging when the battery is full.

    only thing might be to upgrade engine earth and power cable from alternator to battery.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraith View Post
    Why would you need a 120 Amp alternator....
    that is a good point...

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraith View Post
    Why would you need a 120 Amp alternator....
    To power the hectic subs bro.

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    i would take out the cai, dont worry about a pod tho, just put some mesh over the throttle body to keep out small animals. put the new battery where the cai was. As for wiring it in, just bend an old coat hanger or two and sticky tape em down to the battery and alternator terminals, should work a treat.
    if you cant afford a good heavy duty 12v battery, energiser AA batterys are actually 1.5 volts, so 8 of these in circuit will make 12 volts. much cheaper.

    the old battery can now be used to power any extra accessaries you might like, such as pink neons, in car cappacinos makers ( happy to explain how to plumb one into your cars water pump if you like) or a robotic arm that reaches out and scratches your nuts every time you have an itch.

    Welcome to JC

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraith View Post
    i am going to ask a silly question & i might even know the answer to this but anyways...

    what is trolling & what purpose does it serve?

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    I've got a fairly decent setup in my car & it's almost complete. If you have high current amps then...

    i would say you would need 1 x OPTIMA D34 Yellow top & 1 x OPTIMA Red or Blue top batteries first of all along with a STINGER SR200 SGP32 dual battery current relay isolator.

    the D34 Yellow top will power up the AMP's etc while the Red top is used for normal car power, like cranking, lights, wipers etc etc. The Stinger SR200 will charge the batteries when needed &/or allow you to run the system while the car is not running making sure that it will not drain the main battery. it also switches charge from one battery to another when one is empty or if the other is full making sure that you are always fully recharged. if by chance you drain the main battery it will also allow you to use the 2nd battery as a back up (less chance of getting stuck with a flat) & vice versa.

    If you do run 2 batteries then removing the CAI/Pod setup from the passenger side is wise however another alternative is to put the secondary (Yellow top) battery in the boot. Make sure you run 0 gauge wire on both +pos & -neg terminals for both batteries.

    As for the 120AMP alternator you just bought i am fairly sure that you could get them pimped out by an Auto Electrician to 140AMP. I am not 100% sure which make/model alternator you have in your vehicle however my alternator was 120A as well but i got the internals out of a VX or VY (Can't remember) LSx alternator & upped the amperage to 140A. I don't get as much headlight dimm any more when compared to the stock 120A.

    that's just my 2c.

    Also going for an OTR CAI you will feel a little more RWKW increase. so maybe that alone is worth it. I am unsure if a pod straight out of the throttle body is even achievable - but if it is why not...

    Have a merry x-mas & sorry to ask silly questions earlier on about trolling. I am too fairly new & don't understand the concept of trolling, however after googling the word good ol' wiki explained to me what it's all about.

    Your post has no reason for such a response apart from the #### tard who put the pic of the dog as a response to deem himself the trolling mofo that he is. I better stop before i end up like him/her/it.

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    Fairly decent meaning supercheap had a special on Fusion gear so you went nuts. Unless your pushing 1000's and 1000's of watts higher alternators and second batteries are just wank factor. Oh and mods did you see Shen Long called me a bad word. I expect him to be infracted as per site rules. Thank you.
    Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like




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    Quote Originally Posted by wraith View Post
    Why would you need a 120 Amp alternator....
    I got the Mitsubishi 120amp alternator in my car, because for some stupid reason it was about $50 cheaper than the Bosch 100amp unit, go figure.
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    would love to see this setup that shen thinks requires all that gear that he mentioned, i bet half of it isnt even needed

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    2 x Alpine Mono PDX 1.1000
    1 x Alpine 4 Channel PDX 4.150
    2 x Hertz 800W RMS Subs
    Hertz HSK Splits Front
    Hertz 6" Rear
    Pioneer AVIC-F900BT HU

    Here's a clip of my setup with 1 x PDX1.1000 Amp only & no 2nd battery but i did have the upgraded 140A alternator at that time.

    The clip was taken at the audio shop just as the car sub boxes got finished.



    Yes Ford AU's & Holden GenIII both use Mitsubishi alternator's. You can put the guts of a GenIII alternator in to the housing of a Ford 120A & you get instant 20A boost.

    Sorry guys I like my long wheel base vehicles, badges look cool but the driving experience's are way way better than any logo/badge/brand/make/model.

    I can not believe i just got sucked in to posting up this shit.

    Looks like i got trolled & provocation intended worked. Well pharkin dun!!!
    I know this is a Holden forum so i hope i am not breaking any rules with my car being a Ford.
    Last edited by Shen Long; 24-12-2011 at 01:00 PM.

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    Know how I know your lying and I quote

    Alpine Mono PDX 4.150

    Mono but it's 4 channel o.O

    Also your setup isn't really that outrageous.
    Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like




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    so like i said, it isnt needed, a simple upgrade to the wiring on a standard alternator would have been enough to stop dimming lights, my system is bigger then that and im using standard alternator and no caps lols, oh how i love the holidays

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraith View Post
    Know how I know your lying and I quote

    Alpine Mono PDX 4.150

    Mono but it's 4 channel o.O

    Also your setup isn't really that outrageous.
    WTF Mate?

    I never said it was outrageous.

    just said i have a fairly good setup.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lufkin View Post
    so like i said, it isnt needed, a simple upgrade to the wiring on a standard alternator would have been enough to stop dimming lights, my system is bigger then that and im using standard alternator and no caps lols, oh how i love the holidays
    Possibly, but i did say & i quote "If you have high current amps then..."

    Is it just me or are there a bunch of gaylord fockers here???

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    I meant outrageous enough to warrant all the stuff you had done i.e alternator etc.
    Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like




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    Quote Originally Posted by wraith View Post
    I meant outrageous enough to warrant all the stuff you had done i.e alternator etc.
    Car works(ed) a treat as did the system.

    Unfortunately a roo disagreed with me, but he won't be telling anyone anytime soon. (sad story).

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    yeah must aggree definatly dont need a bigger alternator, or battery really but a yellow top D34 does help aslong as u also do the Big 3 upgrade. the 90 amp alternator is fine 2 run all this easy.
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