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Thread: vt replaced everything still wont fire am i jynxd or can u help

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    greasemonkey24 is offline Donating Member
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    Default vt replaced everything still wont fire am i jynxd or can u help

    lets start with what i replaced
    cas sensor
    cam sensor
    plugs
    leads
    coil packs
    dfi module
    fuel pump
    fuel relay
    fuel filter
    fuel regulator
    ALL RELAYS
    alternator
    egr valves/solarnoid thingy
    o2 sensors (even though they dont work till car warms up)
    tps
    aic valve
    accelerator cable
    maf sensor
    air temp sensor
    injectors
    my key works fine immobilser turns off and on right, GOT NO ERROR CODES it winds over and wants to crank but just wont fire any ideas please people its was running fine after all this till i put in drive it jerked a little wich is usually tps switch off as i forgot to turn 10 degrees b4 fitting so i removed terminals and engine fuse re fitted correctly and since this problem has been my nightmare ive gone threw with multimeter and chekd volts and ohms the works

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    strgas's Avatar
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    did you recheck your engine fuse for correct fittment or damge after refitting ?

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    greasemonkey24 is offline Donating Member
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    nah replaced it with new one ive put the test light on all and lights up the way it should

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    starter motor?
    i had the same problem in my vs, replaced the starter motor and went like a breeze

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    Sabbath''s Avatar
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    Take it to a mechanic.
    Quote Originally Posted by ari666 View Post
    i have a proper update for ya:

    sabbath is not fire proof.


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    Quote Originally Posted by greasemonkey24 View Post
    its was running fine after all this till i put in drive it jerked a little wich is usually tps switch off as i forgot to turn 10 degrees b4 fitting so i removed terminals and engine fuse re fitted correctly
    Cant rally make anything out,but,,

    1_Was your car running OK,before you played with TPS?
    2_Did you remove the TPS from the TB?

    Cause,if you did and if you re-fitted the way you described,,,,,,its wrongly fitted...Even before that and more importantly,when you re-fit the TPS,did you put the "drive adapter" back on??

    Its a plastic cover that loosely slides over the end of the throttle shaft, on the TP sensor side of the throttle body..

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    greasemonkey24 is offline Donating Member
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    of course i put the adaptor back on, and they way i have fitted is the proper way ive rebuilt it before and never had a problem also if you read the gregorys manual it will tell you to line tps up with holes then turn 10degrees clockwise then turn back and line holes up and bolt in even if it was ####ed or wrong it will throw a code and still start and i still got no error codes and place on

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    Hey Mate why did you change all those parts?
    To diagnose the problem check for codes, you have already done that.
    Check for spark if no spark ignition side of things.
    If spark is there check injector trigger/fuel pressure. Fuel delivery.
    See how you go try this first.
    Could be a PCM but test the basics first.

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    pull a spark plug, refit to lead and lay in engine bay, get someone to crank engine and see if you have spark
    if you have spark loosen fitting on fuel rail and see if you have fuel
    then post results
    your not jynxed but sometimes the gods like to try us

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sabbath' View Post
    Take it to a mechanic.
    Not overly helpful. Chances are the mechanic will employ the same techniques.

    As above check of you have ignition and fuel.

    If you have both of these it should at least sound like it wants to go.

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    Hey there have you played with the plastic around steering wheel where the contact on key meets on the barrel if the little knob on your key is not touching it wont start also have you changed bcm, ecu etc seem very weird it wont start you have basically replaced everthing get back to us so we can try and help ya. Just guessing sounds like a immobiliser problem how old are your keys.

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    greasemonkey24 is offline Donating Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by greasemonkey24 View Post
    of course i put the adaptor back on, and they way i have fitted is the proper way ive rebuilt it before and never had a problem also if you read the gregorys manual it will tell you to line tps up with holes then turn 10degrees clockwise then turn back and line holes up and bolt in even if it was ####ed or wrong it will throw a code and still start and i still got no error codes and place on

    sorry my f23k up 30 degrees forgot but anyway at the time yeah i put on 30degrees they way it says

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    greasemonkey24 is offline Donating Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by PRAVX II S View Post
    Hey Mate why did you change all those parts?
    To diagnose the problem check for codes, you have already done that.
    Check for spark if no spark ignition side of things.
    If spark is there check injector trigger/fuel pressure. Fuel delivery.
    See how you go try this first.
    Could be a PCM but test the basics first.
    gday mate checked fuel taken fuel filter off at outlet port turn key on pisses out fuel same at engine bay take off turn key pisses fuel so i know it getting fuel i know its getting spark im thinking faulty injecters as if i spray AEROSTART DOWN THROTTLE IT STARTS NO PROBS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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    greasemonkey24 is offline Donating Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by lout View Post
    pull a spark plug, refit to lead and lay in engine bay, get someone to crank engine and see if you have spark
    if you have spark loosen fitting on fuel rail and see if you have fuel
    then post results
    your not jynxed but sometimes the gods like to try us
    ive done all that as previouse post says i have spark

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    greasemonkey24 is offline Donating Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by m1lky View Post
    Not overly helpful. Chances are the mechanic will employ the same techniques.

    As above check of you have ignition and fuel.

    If you have both of these it should at least sound like it wants to go.
    She wants to go as with AEROSTART its fires but all im thinking is down to injectors maybe the ones i bought r fudged

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    greasemonkey24 is offline Donating Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhopper View Post
    Hey there have you played with the plastic around steering wheel where the contact on key meets on the barrel if the little knob on your key is not touching it wont start also have you changed bcm, ecu etc seem very weird it wont start you have basically replaced everthing get back to us so we can try and help ya. Just guessing sounds like a immobiliser problem how old are your keys.
    my keys are new bcm is fine and ecu is fine and my immobiliser works fine as it says above

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    greasemonkey24 is offline Donating Member
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    basicly what ive done is taken all the advice ive been given so far from the members who have commoented and helped (and i thank you all greatly) raped the search feature on site and either replaced all parts regarding this an elliminated everything i could think off possible doing so as AEROSTART fires it up im left with 2 options as this proves im getting combustion in chamber so its only down to 2 things............ im thinking injectors or rail problem ive done elec test on injectors and all good, tomorrow it will be do or die for them as im just going to unbolt injector rail and quickly crank if they spray im f@#$ed if not, im happy as ill know thats why its not getting fual into chambers it HAS to be the only possible outcomes

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    Maybe try check that there fuel coming back out the fuel rail return. Just to check the rail isn't blocked first. Easier than pulling the whole thing out.

    Good luck

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    try pinching the fuel return line from regulator, (if regulator has failed or you got a faulty one it will not hold pressure)
    if it starts will run overly rich but will confirm problem

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    greasemonkey24 is offline Donating Member
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    ill do that too thanks guys ill let u know how i went after work its driving me mad been working on it for a week now just think ive saved so much labour but as a mechanic would have done the same things just taken a bit longer too lol

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    If it starts with fuel added into the intake the DFI, CAS and coils are all OK, at least until the PCM switches the EST bypass control.

    The PCM controls the injectors but needs to see the theft deterrent disabled signal from the BCM to fire the injectors and crank over. If it cranks over, the PCM has got the OK from the BCM.

    Is there power to the injectors?

    Are there earth signals from the injectors? There are 6 on: F1, F2, F3, E2, E3, E4 at the PCM. If a Voltmeter doesn't indicate battery Voltage with ignition 'on' then drop (or pulse a test light) while cranking, then there's no earth signal.

    It helps a lot to have a wiring diagram - try "Creative Calibrations".

    It's not an intermittent fault so there's no more than an hour's worth of diagnosis required.

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    Quote Originally Posted by m1lky View Post
    Maybe try check that there fuel coming back out the fuel rail return. Just to check the rail isn't blocked first. Easier than pulling the whole thing out.

    Good luck
    Don't want to sound like a smartarse, just trying to help. You have got your fuel lines to the injector rail around the right way, haven't you?

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    greasemonkey24 is offline Donating Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheap6 View Post
    If it starts with fuel added into the intake the DFI, CAS and coils are all OK, at least until the PCM switches the EST bypass control.

    The PCM controls the injectors but needs to see the theft deterrent disabled signal from the BCM to fire the injectors and crank over. If it cranks over, the PCM has got the OK from the BCM.

    Is there power to the injectors?

    Are there earth signals from the injectors? There are 6 on: F1, F2, F3, E2, E3, E4 at the PCM. If a Voltmeter doesn't indicate battery Voltage with ignition 'on' then drop (or pulse a test light) while cranking, then there's no earth signal.

    It helps a lot to have a wiring diagram - try "Creative Calibrations".

    It's not an intermittent fault so there's no more than an hour's worth of diagnosis required.
    yeah i got voltage at the injectors but not sure on pulse so i got a noid light or whateve its called and goin to check

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    greasemonkey24 is offline Donating Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by showbags View Post
    Don't want to sound like a smartarse, just trying to help. You have got your fuel lines to the injector rail around the right way, haven't you?
    sorry champ it wasnt aimed at you it gets frustrating when ppl say do this do that and ive posted that what they say to try ive done and replaced and checked and its fine but ur idea is actually a good one aswell as "CHEAP6" so im going to check the injector pulse and go from there its just that if it might be rail what the fudge could block it as for fuel lines i only took off the outlet (one that pumps fuel in) to be safe and so i didnt screw that up lmao it driving me mad

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    greasemonkey24 is offline Donating Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by lout View Post
    try pinching the fuel return line from regulator, (if regulator has failed or you got a faulty one it will not hold pressure)
    if it starts will run overly rich but will confirm problem
    very interesting comment "lout" u have me very interested there because for almost 2weeks b4 it died on me it was really rich and stalling a little hmmmmm u might be on to something there

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