lets start with what i replaced
egr valves/solarnoid thingy
o2 sensors (even though they dont work till car warms up)
air temp sensor
my key works fine immobilser turns off and on right, GOT NO ERROR CODES it winds over and wants to crank but just wont fire any ideas please people its was running fine after all this till i put in drive it jerked a little wich is usually tps switch off as i forgot to turn 10 degrees b4 fitting so i removed terminals and engine fuse re fitted correctly and since this problem has been my nightmare ive gone threw with multimeter and chekd volts and ohms the works
did you recheck your engine fuse for correct fittment or damge after refitting ?
nah replaced it with new one ive put the test light on all and lights up the way it should
i had the same problem in my vs, replaced the starter motor and went like a breeze
Take it to a mechanic.
1_Was your car running OK,before you played with TPS?
2_Did you remove the TPS from the TB?
Cause,if you did and if you re-fitted the way you described,,,,,,its wrongly fitted...Even before that and more importantly,when you re-fit the TPS,did you put the "drive adapter" back on??
Its a plastic cover that loosely slides over the end of the throttle shaft, on the TP sensor side of the throttle body..
of course i put the adaptor back on, and they way i have fitted is the proper way ive rebuilt it before and never had a problem also if you read the gregorys manual it will tell you to line tps up with holes then turn 10degrees clockwise then turn back and line holes up and bolt in even if it was ####ed or wrong it will throw a code and still start and i still got no error codes and place on
Hey Mate why did you change all those parts?
To diagnose the problem check for codes, you have already done that.
Check for spark if no spark ignition side of things.
If spark is there check injector trigger/fuel pressure. Fuel delivery.
See how you go try this first.
Could be a PCM but test the basics first.
pull a spark plug, refit to lead and lay in engine bay, get someone to crank engine and see if you have spark
if you have spark loosen fitting on fuel rail and see if you have fuel
then post results
your not jynxed but sometimes the gods like to try us
Hey there have you played with the plastic around steering wheel where the contact on key meets on the barrel if the little knob on your key is not touching it wont start also have you changed bcm, ecu etc seem very weird it wont start you have basically replaced everthing get back to us so we can try and help ya. Just guessing sounds like a immobiliser problem how old are your keys.
basicly what ive done is taken all the advice ive been given so far from the members who have commoented and helped (and i thank you all greatly) raped the search feature on site and either replaced all parts regarding this an elliminated everything i could think off possible doing so as AEROSTART fires it up im left with 2 options as this proves im getting combustion in chamber so its only down to 2 things............ im thinking injectors or rail problem ive done elec test on injectors and all good, tomorrow it will be do or die for them as im just going to unbolt injector rail and quickly crank if they spray im f@#$ed if not, im happy as ill know thats why its not getting fual into chambers it HAS to be the only possible outcomes
Maybe try check that there fuel coming back out the fuel rail return. Just to check the rail isn't blocked first. Easier than pulling the whole thing out.
try pinching the fuel return line from regulator, (if regulator has failed or you got a faulty one it will not hold pressure)
if it starts will run overly rich but will confirm problem
ill do that too thanks guys ill let u know how i went after work its driving me mad been working on it for a week now just think ive saved so much labour but as a mechanic would have done the same things just taken a bit longer too lol
If it starts with fuel added into the intake the DFI, CAS and coils are all OK, at least until the PCM switches the EST bypass control.
The PCM controls the injectors but needs to see the theft deterrent disabled signal from the BCM to fire the injectors and crank over. If it cranks over, the PCM has got the OK from the BCM.
Is there power to the injectors?
Are there earth signals from the injectors? There are 6 on: F1, F2, F3, E2, E3, E4 at the PCM. If a Voltmeter doesn't indicate battery Voltage with ignition 'on' then drop (or pulse a test light) while cranking, then there's no earth signal.
It helps a lot to have a wiring diagram - try "Creative Calibrations".
It's not an intermittent fault so there's no more than an hour's worth of diagnosis required.