Blue LED Dash Conversion

[Spyper]

Well next weekend I'm going to start the conversion. I've read bits and pieces I could find around these forums and think I'm heading into it with all the gear I need. I've got my high intensity blue LEDs along with 390ohm resistors for each one. I'll get the clear blue paint sometime during the week for the plastic casings that can't be filed back. I'll be taking step by step pictures and posting a bit of a tutorial on here, because there seems to be a fair bit of interest but nothing concrete on how to go about it.

What I'm wondering though is, from anyone that's done it before.. is there anything I should know before heading in that might of been a major problem when you did it? Any little bits of info that could potentially help? How many bulbs are behind the dash in a VXII Acclaim? It only has the one LCD screen.Thanks for any help.

I'll update this thread when it's all completed with step by step instructions. This is the first project I'll be attempting on a car, so wish me luck =)


EDIT: For first time readers wanting to know how to do it without reading through everything I'll compile a quick list and info guide here:

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Parts you'll need:
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CLUSTER:
6 or 8 x 5000-8000mcd (brightness) Blue 5mm LED's (6 for single window display, 8 for 3 window displays)
6 or 8 x 540ohm Resistors (.5watt blue) (Same deal)

Air-Con Controls:
5 x 5000-8000mcd Blue 3mm LED's
5 x 540ohm Resistors (.5watt blue)

Mode Controls:
1 x 5000-8000mcd Blue 3mm LED
1 x 540ohm Resistor (.5w blue)

Note: Confirm the resistors with jaycar or dicksmith, where ever you get the LED's from. Tell them it's for 12v application.


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Taking the dash apart:
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Blue LED Dash Conversion

Photos of the whole process: http://members.optusnet.com.au/skylo...ashinstall.zip

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Method:
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Note: A 12v DC power supply comes in very handy for testing! Apply voltage to metal contacts on circuit board. Alternatively, 2 AA batteries in series straight onto the LED (without resistor) will work too.

Solder a resistor to the positive end of each LED. The positive end is the longer of the two. I suggest clipping both contacts a little bit smaller so they'll fit wherever you have to put them. Maybe wait until everything is out so you can see the space you've got to work with. File the top of the LED to remove the rounded shape. Make it flat so that the light difuses evenly, and you won't get 'hotspots'. Someone suggested putting that thin white baking paper around them to difuse the light more evenly, however I haven't tried it, and don't know how bright the light will be.

Ok here we go..
(Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before fiddling with ANY electronics)
Cluster:

Take out the cluster, it's held in by a couple of screws. Take it all apart, there's a few screws and clips you'll need to get at. Take the needles and stuff off (they pop off with a fork or whatever else you can get under them.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/skylo...er-diagram.JPG
This picture shows which globes need to be converted, and the polarity.

Solder the end of the resistor to Positive (+) and the LED probe to the Negative (-). Make sure no other parts of the LED or Resistor touch the metal contacts, as you could short circuit it or blow the LED. You do not need to remove any of the green paint on the inside of the cluster face. The LEDs are bright enough to shine through without being affected by the green paint. Now, test the cluster in the car (or with your 12v power supply) to make sure it's all working fine. Then put it all back together.

AirCon Controls:

Take out the Air-Con unit. You will need to disconnect some wires from the back of it. You'll also need to disconnect a cog-type thing. Be careful when taking it all apart because there is a ball bearing and spring in one of the dials you do NOT want to lose. I did, and had to make up another one. Putting this all back together is a very hard time, a 2nd pair of hands will be very handy trying to connect the cog back up without the bearing popping loose.

Unscrew the bulbs in the unit, by memory there are 5. There is no need to scrape off the green paint on the plastic face. The LED's are bright enough to shine through. Now when I soldered in the LED's, I did them the wrong way, had to de-solder them, turn them around, and do it again. I have no photos and can't remember which way they go in, so you'll need to test them! If not, solder one in, run out to the car, hook it up, and test that way. Then you may only need to de-solder one. Be wary though, 4 of them all face the one way. The one on the far right is opposite, and has to be soldered in backwards. By that I mean, the Positive end is on the right (I think) for all except one. TEST! Solder in all your LEDs, then have a fun time putting it all back together.

To do your mode button, pop out the unit, and it should be pretty self evident. Just check it out and see how you go. My mode button doesn't light up.. in some cars it just doesn't.

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End Result:
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http://members.optusnet.com.au/spype...ue_cluster.JPG
http://members.optusnet.com.au/spype...ar/blue_ac.JPG
http://members.optusnet.com.au/spype.../blue_both.JPG

Time Line:
Taking apart dash: 1 hour maximum. You can do this in 15-20 minutes once you've done it before.
Converting over the cluster: Allow about 2 hours to take it all apart and getting all your soldering done.
Converting over the A/C controls: Allow another 2 hours to doing this.
Converting over the Mode buttons: Half an hour or so.
Putting everything back together: (Cluster/AC/Mode/Dash) 1.5 hours
Total: 7 hours

It took me alot longer than that because I was guessing my way through it. If you have a decent understanding of how things work and you've pulled your dash apart, you could get it done alot quicker. If you haven't, it may take you a bit longer. Be prepared for failing of your parts like the LEDs and Resistors, so be sure you have another car to travel to get more, or just buy more than you need.

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If you need more info on the fine details, check through this thread. If you need any more help, feel free to PM me. Deserthead and MyBerlina have both done this too, so they may be able to help.

[deserthead]

I've done this to my car, look fantastic wen finished!!!

One thing I noted you've got there is clear blue paint.
Where u planning on using this?
I never had to use any paint at all on mine.

I also cheated with the dash and changed the insert to one that already had a blue backing. So I left the dash with bulbs. I bought it from: w w w.custom-house.c o m.au

There are a few bulbs behind the dash.
There is only one that lights up the LCD screen.
What size LEDs did u buy?
I used 3 and 5mm for different spots.

Most of it is pretty straight forward. You'll have to pull apart completely your A/C controls. The longest and most time consuming thing is scraping all the green backing from the A/C controls and dash.

If there are in particaular questions u have, let me know.

Oh one thing I had dramas with, could never get it to work, were the rear power window switches. We'd put in the LED adn it would work fine. but wen u pushed the button to move the window, either way, the LED would stop working. i think I went through bout 5 b4 i gave up. . . . .

Something to watch out for. . . . .

Cheers, Keegan

[Spyper]

Ahh thanks dude. Was just looking round the forum and was about to PM you. The speedo/rev dials, do they have green film backing that needs to be scraped off? I'm not going to get another guage I like the black backing, but the green does suck.

I got 3x 8000mcd 5mm LEDs. I got the wrong resistors (390ohm 5w - instead of .5w). Their little clay bricks almost, still feel stupid that I bought them - I knew what it was I wanted. So I'll head to jaycar or dicksmith some time during the week. The blue paint I was going to use to paint over the clear where I remove the green film. Will that not be needed if there's going to be a blue LED behind it?

[deserthead]

The speedo dials and the aircon dials have green backing on them. . . . :b:

You'll spend a while scraping it all off hey. . . .
U can try nail polish remover to get it off, I haven't tried it myself, but I hear it works pretty good.
Once u get through the green layer, there is a white layer, dont go through that. Keep it as intact as possible, other wise, you'll see little "hot spots"
I didn't paint it blue, the LEDs are heaps bright.

LOL little bricks he he
You might be lucky with them and get a tiny little glow. . . . .

I got all my gear from Jaycar, the nerds in there seemed to know wot they were doing. . . .

One hint though is get a file and file smooth the top of the LED.
U know how they look like a dome, File it flat. The dome will give it too much of a direct shine, so you'll have little shinie spots, and others will be dull.
By filing it smooth, it will more evenly disperse the light.
I had to use 3, 3mm LEDs in the trip comp buttons alone to get and even light spread, so alot of it is guna be fiddly mucking around.

Not to say its not worth it though.
Your not in Sydney by ne chance? I'd offer to give ya a hand.

Any other questions or probs let me know.
If u do a How-to let me know, I'll give a hand on it.

Cheers, Keegan.

[Spyper]

Thanks that helps alot, and to answer, I'm a Melbourne boy. I'm thinking about attempting it on Thursday. I'll do as much of a how-to as I can. Your tips are very helpful so thank you. I think the most time consuming part is going to be putting it all back together, testing, removing, fiddling, back together, testing. Argh, sounds like fun. But the result DOES look worth the time.

[deserthead]

No worries, if u get stuck with anything, like i said, let me no.
I'll help ya where I can!!!

Also, for your power window buttons in the front, they are 3mm LEDs.
U wont need any resistors for them, they are a straight swap for the green LEDs in there.

Cheers.

[Ev0LuTioN]

hey man if u dont mind posting some pics of ur blue dash - id appriate it - cause i am kinda gettin bored with original green so i might start a lil project of my own too :P lol

cheers
alex.

[deserthead]

Hey Alex,
Check out this link, to my car in My Ride:

VX II S(pew Yellow)

Gives u an idea, except for the big black spot in the speedo bit, blown globe. . . .

Hope this helps ya!!

[Ev0LuTioN]

Hey Alex,
Check out this link, to my car in My Ride:

VX II S(pew Yellow)

Gives u an idea, except for the big black spot in the speedo bit, blown globe. . . .

Hope this helps ya!!

ahh crap lol i didnt even see that - when i was lookin at ur car and posting in that thread i didnt pay attention to the black picture hehe.

nice man i love it looks awsome (lol @ blown globe :P), so how much time does it approximetally take to convert ?? cause i no the a/c lights are gonna be a bitch lol.

cheers for the pic

[deserthead]

Um I did most of it at work. . . . . .

Yes I work for the government. . . . . .lol

I did mine over the course of a few days, so there were a few nights of driving with blue/green lights.......

It could easily be done in a weekend, somethings get finished quicker than others.
Like I said above, the longest thing is getting rid of the green paint.

Any other questions let me no!!!

Cheers, Keegan

[Ev0LuTioN]

thx man ay - i'll let yah know when i start this lil project hehe - oh and did u fix the blown globe ?

[deserthead]

I found out it was only loose a few days later.

So now I just whack the dash and it works.
I'll fix it wen I fix the fuel gauge. . . . .

[Kickars2]

hey guys.
i was talking about doing the exact same thing to my vx.
could you give a list of bolbs and stuff i need.
cause i very keen to do this mod.
i want to do the fuel gauge speedo rev rage and fuel.
not with the display for the km's lef till empty and odometer can ya change them?
oh and deserthead i like the interior of your car.

[Spyper]

Ok the dash is off and work has started. How the hell did you scratch this green paint off without removing the white? And last thing, how do you know which way is the right way to put the LED in? It's not like there's + or - marked anywhere in the dash ahah.

[deserthead]

HA ha ha ha lol. like I said, u need patience!!!!

A mate did mine at work. He sat there with a stanley blade and scratched it off very delicately. U could try nail polish remover. . . .

Thats y I just bought my dash insert, couldn't have been shagged!!!

You have to use a multimeter to find out which side is the active side where the lights twists in.
U can tell on the LED by the flat side on the edge of it or the shorter leg. This is the negative side. The resistor must be hooked up on the opposite side to this.

Hows it goin btw?

[Spyper]

A multimeter I have, but there's no power to the A/C controls or Cluster, so can't find which is active. ahah

Working on the A/C controls at the moment, got 2 dials done (green film). I've taken SOME of the white out by accident, it's so friggin hard to do. Using tiniest flat blade screw driver I've got. About to try stanley knife blades. I know the polarity of the LEDs. Dunno how I'm gonna change all 6 globes in the A/C controls to LED's and have them all fit.. today is gonna be testing. Complete the job monday. Gah, this is annoying.

[deserthead]

Lol, I told u it was fun. . . . . .

You'll have to plug it in and find out the polarity of each of the holders.
Fiddly pain in the arse thing to do. . . .

The way I sat the LEDs was I put the actual LED inside the control unit, where the globe used to go. Give it a little bit of play on the legs cause you'll more than likely have to move the LEDs to get even light spread. I placed the resistors out the rear of the unit, there is heaps of room for them to poke out the back.
Just make sure they dont touch or rest against ne thing cause they get hot. . . .

Keep at it dude, its worth it in the end!!!

Anymore q's just ask!!

[chevy_big_block_bro]

The long pin it the Anode and is hooked up to the positive
The short pin is the Cathode and goes to negative.
The cathode (-) has the flat edge.
Hope this helps.
Ive thought about changing the colours to blue but now that i work full time, i have no time accept weekends and i realy cant be $%#&ed on the weekend.
If i was to do it id spend a few hours at the wrechers on saturday and get all the faces and bulb holders needed for the job.
Id sit down and intergrate the leds and resistors into the holders and scrape off all the green in my own time knowing i dont need to hurry.
Then its just a case of changing over when im ready.
All id have to do is the light switch and buttons slowly over time.
Im saying that i might start soon

[chevy_big_block_bro]

You have to use a multimeter to find out which side is the active side where the lights twists in.
U can tell on the LED by the flat side on the edge of it or the shorter leg. This is the negative side. The resistor must be hooked up on the opposite side to this.

Hows it goin btw?

Opps, just seen that you already said that.
Sorry jumped the gun

[deserthead]

Thats kool!

U don't need to use lamp holders, the legs off the LEDs are stiff enough to hold it all in place.
The worst is scraping off the green!!!

Im thinking that a new thread on this subject in the How To section is a must.

Hey spyder, u takin fotos as u go?

[Spyper]

Hey, yeah I've taken photos at most steps. I'll sort through them when I'm done. When I do the tutorial, I'll pass it to you to add whatever you think needs adding if you're cool with that, and t hen put it on the net and link it in the how-to section. Trying to dis-assemble the cluster at the moment to get to the face. What a bitch.

[deserthead]

Have u got it off yet?

Use a fork to get the needles up. U may have to wiggle it under them, but they should come up easily.
Then to realign them, use the hidden menu, the one that lights up the dash and moves the needles. Once i did that, I also put it on the digital speedo and went 4 a drive, just to check that the needle and digi speedo were the same.
Thats kool bout the tutorial, looking forward to reading it!

Hows it all coming?

[Spyper]

Do you need to take out the TINY little screws in the circuit board at the back of the dash? I didn't take the needles off because they felt like they wouldn't move. But I need to remove the green backing ffs sigh.

So the needles WILL lift up huh? How many globes need to be replaced in the cluster? I know there's one for the trip computer.. but what about the dials?

[Spyper]

Your helping so much, thank you. What sized LEDs did you use in the cluster? There's 5 for the face and one for the trip computer. I have 5x 3mm and 3x 5mm LEDs at the moment. I think I need 1 more 5mm and then 6x 3mm for the A/C controls haha

Edit: I think the project is over. The stock face covers alot of the green film. It's inaccessible. Cream coloured plastic over alot of it. I'm thinking cut my losses now =/

Re-Edit: It shows up blue WITHOUT removing the green. Off to dicksmith to get some more LED's haha.

[deserthead]

Is that the speedo that shows up blue? its not too dark?
I didn't do that so I dunno how that would've come out.
For the trip comp screen LCD I just used one 5mm LED.
Just make sure u file the top of it flat, otherwise you'll get a major hot spot.

For the aircon controls I used 3mm LEDs in each of the globe holes.

Post some piccies up wen you're sone, Im curious to c how u went!!!