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replacing engine mounts on a VT

Stue

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Hi there,

As anyone had the fun of replacing engine mounts on a VT V6? I have been advised that they sag and it is a "common problem" (dont know how true that is..).
So after spending a whole f**king day trying to get the new mounts in, there was no way in hell I could get the mounts to line up and lower the engine into place.

Can anyone who has been through the fun of replacing engine mounts on a Vt V6 advise how the hell you go about it?

Many thanks!!!
 

accentstencil

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Are you talking about lowering the mounts into the crossmember? If so, don't do any nuts up tight until you've got them in place, just screw the nuts on a couple of turns so you've got plenty of movement to manouvre the studs into place. I hope you understand what I mean.
 

TigerVX

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How do you tell if your mounts need to be replaced?
 

accentstencil

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How do you tell if your mounts need to be replaced?

If the sump is very close to the crossmember is one way. Sometimes the mounts look OK but if you jack the engine up just a bit to take some weight off the mounts, you can see if they are cracked or broken. Don't forget to use a piece of wood between the jack and sump.
 

Stue

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Replacing VT engine mounts.

Many thanks for your reply.

I have found, it you loosely bolt the mounts to the chasis, they dont line up when the engine comes down, and if you loosely bolt the mounts to the engine, because of the angle of the bolts on the mounts, they wont even go close to going in the holes in the chasis.If you loosely bolt only one mount on (to both the chasis and the engine), when you try to lower the engine to line up the other mount, the holes will not line up due th the angle the engine is coming down at (as it is loosey bolted to one side).
I have found it to be an extremely difficult job to manouvre the engine and try to line up the bolts. Every time I would lower the engine, the bolt holes would not line up.......:bang:
 

accentstencil

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I remember having the same problem when I did mine but unfortunately I can't really recall how I got around it. I think it was through sheer force, levering it with a bar. I do remember that I did the top part first and then dropped it into the crossmember. Get one mount in first and put the nuts on loosely and then work on the other one with leverage. It is easier to line up if you remove the engine brackets but it is also a lot more work.
 

minux

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If the sump is very close to the crossmember is one way. Sometimes the mounts look OK but if you jack the engine up just a bit to take some weight off the mounts, you can see if they are cracked or broken. Don't forget to use a piece of wood between the jack and sump.

Or if when you hard accelerate your hear a bang on your right side when letting the accelerator off.

They aren't that hard to replace, i did mine in an LS1 based VT while changing the headers.
 

Stue

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VT engine mounts

Many thanks for your advice!

I shall try again today (Day 2......), and it sounds like it is a 2 person job.

To rmove the engine brackets must involve either removing the A/C compressor or the power steering......is this correct?

Thanks again!!
 

Doctor Bob

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take the drivers side mount off the block,
replace the lh mount & fit the nuts to it loosely,
replace the rhs mount out of the car,
drop the mount into the kframe
bolt it back to the block, tighten everything up.
about an hour

Rob
 

accentstencil

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Many thanks for your advice!

I shall try again today (Day 2......), and it sounds like it is a 2 person job.

To rmove the engine brackets must involve either removing the A/C compressor or the power steering......is this correct?

Thanks again!!

Yes it does involve removing the compressor and on the driver's side you will have to remove the knock sensor cover plate and possibly the steering pump for better access. Like I said it's a lot more work that way, but it can be done without removing the engine brackets. It is definitely easier with 2 people.
I would try Doctor Bob's method, sounds easier.
 
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