Just joined today. Very impressed with the posts I've looked at and this excellent forum.
I have a 1999 VT Commo and don't know too much about servicing cars (please be kind!).
Moved from the city to the bush and now have a fair bit of time to do things not done before in the big smoke.
The coolant was replaced around 18 months ago and now doesn't have that healthy green colour any more. Should I flush the radiator and replace the coolant?
If so, can someone help with a step-by-step? Or perhaps this is a tired question repeated in the past. I've looked around and can't find any other info, so would appreciate any help.
pair of pliers, remove bottom hose retainer, remove bottom hose at radiator end, remove the inner heater hose clamp and hose on water pump outlet ,turn the heaters onto ful,l put the garden hose in the heater hose pipe and let the water flush the coolant out the bottom of the radiator, attatch garden hose to the water pump outlet and flush block out, remove radiator cap and flush radiator thru, replace all hoses and clamps, remove engione cover, loosen bleeder screw, fill radiator with coolant and run until water squirts out bleeder screw, tighten screw and replace engine cover onto motor, check for leaks
Thanks heaps. Got me a job to do on Saturday!
The last local service guy used Holden Coolant Inhibitor.
Guess I should use the same or is there another product more popular generally?
Do I need to dilute?
I would you Nulon, they last longer and make sure its the green colour.
you really should remove the knock sensors. they are on the bottom of the water jacket which is lower than the bottom hose. you need a deep socket(22 mm i think) and also the tectaloy Holden grade coolant is a much better choice than nulon. and make sure to use demineralized water.
you should leave coolant in iron blocks for more than 2 years without flushing it anyway, there is always corrosion happening and a regular flush is actually good for the system.... genuine stuff is fine, 4 litres of coolant the rest rain water, brings it to about a 50/50 mix which is ok for warmer climates
An easier way to flush is to just remove the top hose off the radiator and stick garden hose in the radiator spout and run engine with heater on till the themostat opens and run car till the water flows out of the top hose nice and clean..
Then remove garden hose and if your quick enough you can add the coolant while the engine is running via the radiator cap making sure not to let it flow out of the top spout on the radiator..
Add the 4 or so litres then put the top hose back on and add water till its full then bleed system.....
Jus my 2 cents
My VT V6 , according to the workshop manual, holds 12 litres of coolant. Which means to achieve the 50/50 mix of distilled water and glycol concentrate is 6 litres of each!!!
I thought the idea was to have all the minerals taken out ? This is what causes scale and corrosion. Rain water has no minerals. Minerals come into the water once they hit the ground and pick them up flowing over land, rivers systems, dams etc. You are not to use boiled water as althoug this removed bacteria sludge etc, it can acutually increase it or something like that.
I believe the ozzie made Superroo coolant is good stuff.
Make sure the coolant you use contains Ethylene Glycol and not just an inhibitor. I used to use Nulon until I had to buy a new radiator and the guy told me not to use Nulon because it doesn't contain Ethylene Glycol. So I switched to one designed for the V6 ecotec.
After flushing the engine you will still have a fair amount of fresh water in the engine, unless you remove the knock sensors. Even then I think there would still be a bit remaining. Therefore, I would put in 6 litres of coolant first and then top up with demineralised water to get a 50/50 mix.
Last edited by accentstencil; 26-10-2007 at 11:16 AM.
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.
As an apprentice I was taught to use demineralized or rain water, also every mechanic I have ever spoken to about it says the same. The minerals in the water actually carry the electrical current through it causing corrosion. More prevalent in alloy head engines. The best coolant in the world is 100% water, but corrosion inhibitor has to be added to stop corrosion. Anti freeze isn't necessary in Australia.
I changed my coolant a few weeks ago, I didn't remove the knock sensors, and I flushed the system with rain water three times, running the motor to circulate the flush water each time. On the final flush, I poured de-min water in through the top hose, after it drained, and I re fitted the bottom hose, I found that I struggled to fit in six liters of glycol concentrate. So I assume that by not removing the sensors, six liters of water was still trapped in the block.
Can't use tap water here in Adelaide, it is full of salts that attack soft metals like aluminium quick smart.
any V6 is going to have corrosion no matter what... its how the ignition system is designed, cos it fires 2 cylinders at a time it burns the exhaust gasses on their way out... it sends a high voltage thru the block and into the cooling system as water conducts electricity easiest..
seriously if the coolant is changed every 2 years or less you will have a healthy cooling system with minimal corrosion, water is water... you can drink treated water now so whats the problem with using it in a cooling system?
I was taught the oppisite in tafe use tap water there is nothing wrong with..
So............ i dont know
I have been using tap water in cars for the last 8 yrs as a mechanic and also in my own car if its changed every 2 years then it should cause a problem.
Also anti freeze is need up here when you see -1 to -13 in winter then you need anti freeze i think.........
Demineralized water doesn't actually conduct electricity. Where the current touches the water, you may get a bit of conductivity for a few mm, but on the whole it won't charge the whole cooling system like tap water will with a high mineral content. My wife used to have a Pulsar that corroded heads religiously every 12 months. I found out her mechanic was using tap water. I did the head the last time and used demineralized water and drove the car for another 3 years and never touched the head.
ur in the country tho sorta rnt u NAAF? see thats could b wat this mechanic was talkin bout he said not 2 use country water as its has a too high of mineral content like u said thats y he suggested rain water instead but city water is different? i cant comment on the other states water tho only ours....
I did my apprenticeship in the city though. It all depends on the water yes, and the treatment process.
Also i went to supercheap and bought some radiator cleaner. Should i do the above, then put the cleaner in, then repeat the above before refilling with coolant?
Sorry first time doing this.
Can you please answer this question, this is my first time attempting this. I hav a VT comm, the overflow tank seems to have dark brown colour when the dipstick is pulled out. im wondering , does thie tank need washing too ? if so, how ?
Brian, the o/flow tank is easy to remove. Look underneath the front and you will see two screws holding the tank in place at the front bottom edge and a scrivet (plastic screw/plug) at the back., remove these and pull out the rubber overflow tube at the top and tank will drop down.
accentstencil, I have a 5 litre container of Nulon Long Life 100% Concentrate Coolant on my desk right now. At the top of the front label it has "CAUTION" 1058gm per litre MONO ETHYLENE GLYCOL 10 mg per kg denatonium benzoate. I would be careful of who I listen to when getting advice about Nulon as the person who told you it has no ethylene glycol is just plain wrong.
Just while we are on the subject, why 50% mix? On the Nulon container it says a 33% mix raises boiling point to 127c and lowers freezing point to -18c. Not many places in Oz get down to -18c so why 50% that gives a freezing point of -37c. Antarctic spring, certainly nowhere in Australia. And I just realised I am resurrecting an old post
Last edited by graham7773; 21-05-2010 at 04:37 PM. Reason: additional info