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Thread: front sway bar

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    Default front sway bar

    Bit of advice needed here guys. I need to replace the front sway bar linkage bushes . Just wondering if i should use the genuine factory rubber ,or go for the aftermarket jobbies like nolathane etc. Also is it best to replace the linkages as well as the bushes
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    If the pins are fine and you only want to spend $20, just do the bushes. If you want to spend $35-$40, do the whole lot, pins included. Go aftermarket polyurethane like Nolathane, they stiffen it up and last a lot longer than rubber.
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    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    Ok, thanks for that . I'll go the Nolathane bushes and check the condition of the pins . Ta
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    I had Holden do mine once... they did such a terrible job about it one of the bushes was bulging out one side so much that the washers were almost touching.... I had another dealership fix the problem with Nolathane's.
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    Quote Originally Posted by s_ikari2015 View Post
    I had Holden do mine once... they did such a terrible job about it one of the bushes was bulging out one side so much that the washers were almost touching.... I had another dealership fix the problem with Nolathane's.
    Thats why i do most repairs and services to my car myself.In the 34 years that i have been driving i'd say my cars have only been in the shop about 10 times , mostly for transmision services .
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    buy a nolathane kit it will last 5 times longer than genuine, kit comes with the pins, nuts and bushes, and is relitivley cheap


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    actually nolthane doesnt always last longer i went through a set in 1 yr and went back to rubbers and all is fine
    you dont need nolthane if ya not a racecar

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    Rubbish. Polyurethane is better in some applications than rubber. If the Nolathane bushes were installed correctly and greased, they would last longer than rubber.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    just saying not always
    pedders did mine and ddnt last long then when i went back to get another set i was told go back to rubber so i did and much better

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    Well, Pedders can leave a lot to be desired in some branches. So can a lot of places.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    Avoid Pedders period.

    Get some Nolathane Z links. Much stronger than stock, and alter the angle in which the link travels through, which causes less stress on the link itself.
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    blake0182 is offline Blake
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    i have the brand wasp Z link bushes and links the bushes are the polyurecthane ones , there all fitted up but i wasnt reali sure how the Z is positioned dose it reali matter or dose it find its own place

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    They will only go one way that looks right. Fit them so the threaded ends are as close as possible to vertical.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    Don't the VT have different links to the VX ¿
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    Yep, VR-VT are the same, then the VX-VZ were the same.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Not_An_Abba_Fan View Post
    Yep, VR-VT are the same, then the VX-VZ were the same.
    Ok ,thanks for the info . Might rebush the whole front end . When i hit the brakes at any speed over 80kays the front end shakes (again . thought i fixed that ) Would it be best to use nolathane bushes all round or would it make the ride a bit harsh ¿
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  17. #17
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    That sort of problem would point to the brakes rather than the bushes.

    The only bushes I wouldn't use Nolathane on would be the inner control arm bushes. If you do, then you would feel every little bump on the road.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Not_An_Abba_Fan View Post
    Yep, VR-VT are the same, then the VX-VZ were the same.
    Wrong... sorta.

    VZ uses a ball-joint at both ends.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Not_An_Abba_Fan View Post
    That sort of problem would point to the brakes rather than the bushes.

    The only bushes I wouldn't use Nolathane on would be the inner control arm bushes. If you do, then you would feel every little bump on the road.
    I have put new rotors and pads on which helped a bit . Also checked the runout of the disc with a dial indicator and it was within specs .Also put nolathane tension rod dampers in which improved the handling 100 per cent but still got the shakes.
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    Does the steering shake or the car? Can you feel the brake pedal pulsate?
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Umai Naa!! View Post
    Wrong... sorta.

    VZ uses a ball-joint at both ends.

    My Super Pro catalogue lists VY and VZ as being the same as VX for the swaybar top mount, but the Nolathane one lists the VZ as being ball/ball. Must get an updated catalogue...
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dayvo View Post
    I have put new rotors and pads on which helped a bit . Also checked the runout of the disc with a dial indicator and it was within specs .Also put nolathane tension rod dampers in which improved the handling 100 per cent but still got the shakes.
    Did you do the rear brakes as well because it could be them that are making the car shake.
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    Quote Originally Posted by accentstencil View Post
    Did you do the rear brakes as well because it could be them that are making the car shake.
    Or it could be an alignment issue too.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Not_An_Abba_Fan View Post
    Does the steering shake or the car? Can you feel the brake pedal pulsate?
    the steering shakes which in turn shakes the car.the pedal doesn't pulsate . I have rolled down a hill in netural and slowly applied the brakes and they do not grab. Had wheel balance and alignment ,also rear brakes check out ok . any speed under about 70 kays it pulls up smooth with not a hint of a shake .
    Might have to drop it into a front end shop . ( not pedders lol) Amberley Autos has a pretty good rep around here .
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    There are a couple of things that can cause similar shakes, radius rod bushes, tie rod ends or rack ends, and even worn struts can make it shake. Does the steering wheel give a wobble when you hit a bump at 60km/h or over?
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyboyDS View Post
    I burnt my hand in a nasty way once using method one but thats because i'm a twat.

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