Brake Shudder on VX

[garywg]

Would anyone out there be able to point me in yhe right direction, I have a VX s1 Lumina and the front brakes shudder under any sort of decent braking - is there a replacement rotor and pad that would help fix the problem, Thanx

[chargedvx6]

Would anyone out there be able to point me in yhe right direction, I have a VX s1 Lumina and the front brakes shudder under any sort of decent braking - is there a replacement rotor and pad that would help fix the problem, Thanx

This is very common on commodores. Just listen next time one cruises past you in the car park for the sss sss sss sss sound.

Only a new rotor will get rid of this IMO and not a Silverline one either. A stocko is good enough for mild driving. In my experience, once a rotor warps to the point of shuddering no amount of machining will eradicate the warp. The rotor will warp again soon after.

Any new standard rotor and good bendix pads should do it without sending you broke. The main thing is to make sure the rotor surface is absoloutley spotlessly clean at the time of fitting. Any crap on the rotor tends to bed in less than perfectly and then can lead to vibes.

For break in I just brake gingerly for a few days- a week until I can see the pad wear on the rotor is uniform.

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

As said, very common. There is actually a way to reduce run out. Commodores with floating rotors, (held on by the wheel) need to have the wheels done up and torqued correctly. Doing the wheel nuts up in a star pattern by hand, not an air operated rattle gun, and torquing them to 100-125 Nm will reduce brake vibrations.

Once run out is present, the only way to eliminate it is to replace the rotors. Sometimes it can be caused by lateral play in the bearing, but that is not as common.

Standard rotor and pad package $105
Slotted rotor and pad package starts at $160 and can go to $245 depending on pad selection.

You get a pair of rotors and a set of pads.

Shipping is $20.

[Tom_1569]

Bit of a highjack, are front rotors the same to do on the VT as VK, i have only ever done VK ones, but would like to do the VT soon as the shudder gives the ****s. Also are rear ones hard to do, its just a stock V6 Diff.

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

They are easier. Undo the caliper and belt it off. The VK ones are held on by the bearing, VR on are held on by the wheel. Rears are basically the same, just have to be more gentle as the handbrake shoes are inside the centre of the rotor.

[pablo]

I am fairly convinced that the pads have a lot to do with this bloody uneven wear on the rotors causing shudder.
Several years ago,when I needed new pads, and after suffering for many months with brake shimmy, I had the rotors machined and fitted new 'mickey mouse' top of the range, I was told, expensive Bosch pads.
Great stuff, no more shimmy.
After about 4-5 months the shudder slowly came back, and within a few more months, was unbearable.
So off came the worn rotors and I fitted two standard new ones, and since the pads still had not much wear in them, I put them back in again.
Terrific, once more no shudder...smooth braking ...bliss again!..............
But, then again, after a few months the shudder slowly came back, once again driving me nuts, even had non mechanical minded passengers making comment. "wots that vibration"

Stuff it, I pulled off the rotors and once more had this new pair machined up. Since the pads were now more than half worn, I went to Super Cheap and purchased a set of pads for $30, Ferodo 'zero', el-cheapos, made in Thailand. Even the package looked cheap!
Well that is 16K ago and there is still no sign of brake shudder, squeel, nothing! Pulls me up no problems even with my trailer on the back.
You can guess what brand I fitted to the missus car the other week!

Pablo

[Full Spectrum]

Warped rotors?.

My VP has warped front, Hard to stop it happening, Go to the car wash hot car hot brakes, Some water in and they can warp out from that and then your off driving it happens.

[veclubby]

This is very common on commodores. Just listen next time one cruises past you in the car park for the sss sss sss sss sound.

Only a new rotor will get rid of this IMO and not a Silverline one either. A stocko is good enough for mild driving. In my experience, once a rotor warps to the point of shuddering no amount of machining will eradicate the warp. The rotor will warp again soon after.

ive got that sound on mine and my rotors are brand new??? i dont understand...also got the shuddering wen i brake and i dont understand either reckon they could be a faulty batch?

ps they are DBA slotted's

cheers
ryan

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

You need to take them off, clean the hubs and then put them back on using the correct torque technique. You may also have to check the lateral play in your wheel bearings. If it is beyond tolerance, you will get brake shudder too.

[veclubby]

You need to take them off, clean the hubs and then put them back on using the correct torque technique. You may also have to check the lateral play in your wheel bearings. If it is beyond tolerance, you will get brake shudder too.

ok cool cheers for that how do u check the play in the wheel bearing?

cheers mate
ryan

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

To check the play you need a dial gauge. You remove the wheel and put 3 nuts back on the studs backwards to hold the rotor on. Grab the top and the bottom of the rotor, push the top in, and pull the bottom out. It needs to be with about 10kgs of force. While being held like this, put the dial gauge against the top of the rotor surface, then pull the top out and push the bottom in. Note the reading on the dial gauge. I think the spec is about 0.2mm on an old bearing.

[veclubby]

cool cheers for that mate will have to have a look c

cheers
ryan