my car still won't run.

[TheForgotten]

I need help. this issue has been going on for a while, and any resolution i get seems to only be a bandaid fix
the problem: i get code 46, and obviously the car won't run

solutions to date:
CAS was changed with a used (thought to be good) CAS. car ran 100% fro a week, tehn died.
CAS was again swapped, this time with a brand new CAS. lasted 1 day.
earth points are tight and not corroded.
at some point someone helped themself to the fuel, and i borrowed a can to put some in (19L went in can, but 15l showing on dash. (digital shows 15, analogue shows almost half full) it's parked on a hill. can't move it.
fuel pump makes a noise like it's priming, but i can't be sure as i don't have the tools to disconnect fuel line or a pressure guage.
up until the most recent attempt, if the battery was left to charge, the car would start. but if left overnight connected it would play games again next day, even though multi shows volts to be within stationary spec.

this thing's just sitting there rusting and wasting rego. can anyone offer any advice?

[accentstencil]

Was there any obvious damage the the CAS's that you replaced?

[TheForgotten]

nope. i still have both here and they look fine except for a fine smear of road grime

[accentstencil]

I thought that perhaps the interrupter blades may have been rubbing on it. Maybe the connector on the loom isn't making good contact.

[TheForgotten]

DFI CAS and cam sensor connector terminals all look the same, position wise. that was suggested by dr. bob a while back, but when i mentioned that they looked to be fine, he said he'd get a how-to for pulling out teh terminals, but i heard nothing back from him

[lout]

If you are good enough with a multimeter you could measure the signals into and out of DFI module or else If all the connections seem fine try substituting a known good DFI module

[slappa.]

hav u tried swapping computers with a mates?

[accentstencil]

hav u tried swapping computers with a mates?

I could be wrong but I don't think that would work because the ECU and the BCM have to be security linked in order for the car to start.

[TheForgotten]

I've heard the same, but also been told they don't. no mates i can scab an ecu from.

If you are good enough with a multimeter you could measure the signals into and out of DFI module or else If all the connections seem fine try substituting a known good DFI module

i'm good with a multi, but i don't know what to look for. I know my own car (VR) back to front and upside down, but i'm still learning this car. DFI has been swapped with one i thought was good (from my project l67). would the DFI from my VR work? i know it's fine

[lout]

If you have changed your module it's probably not that
Have you cleared your codes (disconnect battery for five minutes. Make sure you have your radio code as it will be cleared too)
Check for good spark on all of your spark plugs

[chargedvx6]

I've heard the same, but also been told they don't. no mates i can scab an ecu from.

i'm good with a multi, but i don't know what to look for. I know my own car (VR) back to front and upside down, but i'm still learning this car. DFI has been swapped with one i thought was good (from my project l67). would the DFI from my VR work? i know it's fine

Careful, L67 DFI is higher output than L36.

[TheForgotten]

If you have changed your module it's probably not that
Have you cleared your codes (disconnect battery for five minutes. Make sure you have your radio code as it will be cleared too)
Check for good spark on all of your spark plugs

cleared codes probly 30-35 times since it started. plugs, will replace ASAP, but i thought if a plug was stuffed it would run, but run like ****

Careful, L67 DFI is higher output than L36.

are they? I thought they were the same, only the coils were higher output. hmmmm ahh dammit, total brain-fade

[wrx884]

does it wanna just keep cranking just with no fire? have u checked 4 spark yet?

[lout]

If your module is faulty you will probably have no spark on any plugs ( can be caused by other things too)
If two plugs don't fire that share the same coil that coil is most likely faulty
and if just one plug probably lead or plug but it should still start

[TheForgotten]

does it wanna just keep cranking just with no fire? have u checked 4 spark yet?

yep. no idea how to check spark. timing light?

If your module is faulty you will probably have no spark on any plugs ( can be caused by other things too)
If two plugs don't fire that share the same coil that coil is most likely faulty
and if just one plug probably lead or plug but it should still start

coils have been swapped aswell, with no luck

[wrx884]

I think u need 2 ppl 1 2 crank the car and 1 2 watch 4 the spark? take 1 plug out plug it into a lead, have it near the engine block and crank it over not 100% sure if this is the best way 2 do it tho.

Its a long shot but ive been postin over n over with similar symtoms that i had a while ago but check the wires behind these looms my car did a similar thing cept i found a wire behind the grey loom that was tapped up managed 2 get water inside and corrode it and eventually snapped it its worth a look? those looms run straight 2 the ecu inside the car

[lout]

Sorry , just reading your BIO are we working on the VR or the VT?
To test for plugs firing remove one plug at a time and with plug still connected to lead touch plug threaded section against clean metal and have someone else crank engine while you look for spark

[TheForgotten]

all well and good, easy to do, but what do you hold it with so you don't get booted?

[xrsist]

"fuel pump makes a noise like it's priming, but i can't be sure as i don't have the tools to disconnect fuel line or a pressure guage"

how about buying the tools..

check spark as already said also