I just recently got my leads replaced and i payed 190 bucks for it.
I absolutly got jacked didn't I ???
it was 110 for the part and 80 for labour.
they were ngk leads.
How much did i get jacked????
i payd $60 for my leads and did them myself on a VX
lol i paid 40 bucks for mine y didnt u do em urself u got ripped nicely
MY VY SV8 HBD http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...y-sv8-hbd.html
$40 bux labour an hour? holy crap. we charge like $130.
MY RIDE
I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken.
Most mechanic down here, charge between 40-65 bux an hour, only a couple of places charge more, and they are either specialists, or rip offs where people think you pay more so you get more, but trust me you get less if anything.
I also have a mechanic who i use on occasion as he has a wrecking yard aswell, he charges in stubbies and cans.
yeah rip off man, should of done them yourself .. easy and quick job after the first time.
yiep deffienently feel like **** now...!!!!
do not go to midas in dandenong ever again..!!!
and now its just back to normal....!!!!
everytime i accelerate it chuggs......
what the hell is wrong with my car??????
when i got the new leads they were working fine and there was no chugging on acceleration now it is back... what can be wrong with my car. ??
did the mechanic guy do a doddgy and fixed it up temp so i have to go back to him??
i was quoted 190. it was a saturday and i work during the week so i could not be bothered looking around... i thought that it was only going to be a few dollars different anyways.... how wrong i was!!!!
still wanna know what is wrong with my car....
should i take it back to the same dude...?
Mate, are you a glutton for punishment????? Do NOT go back there.
In Dandy you have Horsepower Factory and G & D Performance, both of whom have all the right gear to diagnose your problem correctly and fix it.
And to answer your first question - YES, you were royally riped!
Cheers,
Macca
Senator 300 - the CLASSY C4B!
LS1 - ETP215 @ 62cc, Comp 215/223 .602/.609 @111+3, 8.050" P/R, Morel link-bar lifters, Powerbond 25% UDP, 36lb injectors, SLP pump, Rollmaster timing chain, OTRCAI, T-56 - RipShift, 3.91:1 rear, DiFilippo 1.75" 4-1s St/St HPC coated, DiFilippo twin 3" st/st cat-back, 3" metal substrate hi-flow cats. AP-Racing 6/4-pots. EFIlive COS3 SD tune. 308RWKW. My ride:-http://www.cardomain.com/ride/389253...lden-commodore
or u couldve just bought them for 40 bucks and did them urself would have saved u 100 bucks
MY VY SV8 HBD http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...y-sv8-hbd.html
I bet the bloke who did your work had a smile as big as the moon. lmao.
hahahah..... the dude got me good.... he did have a grin when he was handing over the keys he even let me have it for 180 instead of 190 cause i had 180 in cash... (what a nice guy) and yes i could not be bothered shopping around at the time. now i know better....
In Dandy you have Horsepower Factory and G & D Performance, both of whom have all the right gear to diagnose your problem correctly and fix it.
so these are where you would recomend to go too? where are they located...?
I GOT OWNED!!!
Lol, if it's something simple like that, I'll do it for you for much cheaper.
Leads will literally take no longer than 15mins to change, most here would do it for a 6pack. Same thing with plugs, it's simple.
What do you mean it chugs when you accelerate? Does it begin to feel like the car is about to stall? Is the acceleration very slow?
Based on that very limited information, you could be missing a cylinder. You can get compression tests done or simply check all of your plugs. Not to mention getting your coils tested.
Post up some more information and we can help you out.
I CANT STRESS THIS ENOUGH, DONT GO TO MIDAS. THEY ARE EXHAUST SPECIALISTS THAT CANT EVEN MAKE A GOOD SYSTEM LET ALONE MECHANICAL WORK.
I will sit here and bag them all day because there the worst auto franchise around.
well the car sort of jerks when it accelerates but it does not stall at all... its not a stalling feel because when it idels the rev meter does not go up and down it stays where it is and is very good when it is stationary...
when i plant my foot down it basiclly jerks until it gets to 4000 rpm then its smooth. then when you change gears it does the same until about 4k then smooth again.
first i thought it was sparks so i changed that myself and it did the same. so now that i have changed the leads, i think it may be the coil cap thingy. or it maybe a fuel problem so changing the petrol filter may be it. but i did that not long ago so dunno... enlighten me...
once again............. i got jacked!!!!!!